Timz06

I am going to a BMW club drivers event at roebling road in a couple of weeks.

They require you to flush the brake fluid. I am planning on doing this but is it really necessary for a 2001 Z06 with 10k miles?

Anyway, what kind of fluid is best, and can someone recommend a good set of pads that will work on the track and the street or are the stock pads ok? I think the have plenty of life left.

kraff

I'd do it if only to put a fluid in with a higher boiling point and to make sure they are well bled. I like the super blue ATE as it is has good characteristics and a reasonable price. I ran the stock pads for awhile and if this is your first event, I wouldn't get too worried if it is only a weekend and you have more than half left.
I won't even comment on pads as if you do search, you'll find ten million opinions (including mine).
Good luck and have fun. You have an awesome car out of the box :cheers:

gbecton

Timz06 - I agree with (kraff) the Ate Super Blue Racing brake fluid has worked well for me. I also use the stock pads that came on my 2003 Z06. I have had track days at Buttonwillow Raceway Park, Sears Point (Infineon) and Thunderhill Raceway Park for a total of six (6) track days, five (5) thirty (30) minute sections each day and I am still using the orignal pads. I plan on changing the pads before the next event and will be using the stock pads. The fluid should cost around $15.00 per quart and has a dry boiling point of 536 degrees (F). Hope this helps. :steering:

Timz06

thanks I will go with the blue and stock pads!

TIm

95jersey

I also attend BMW clubs with my 2001 Z06.

Here's how I prepare for an event

1) lower the car 3/4 inch by tightening the bolts only
2) replaced the stock fluid with Motul 600 (a little expensive, but a higher wet boiling point, which is much more important as your brake system absorbs water)
3) I use PFC's Z rated pads. As it is more aggressive than OE, but very dust and rotor friendly. My opinion of the stock pad is not very good at this point.
4) I also had the camber adjusted to -1.0 front, -0.75 rear with a litte toe out in the front and a little toe in on the rear. This helps the car turn better and keeps it stable at high speed.

probably more info than you wanted, but that my 2 cents.

trumper Z06

;) Ahh be careful here, adding toe out to the front suspension will help your car turn in... but the cars front end will be "loose" at high speeds!

:bb Some auto-crosers set-ups have the front "toed-out" but most high speed drivers recomend toe in to stablelize the front end on the track!

0C5stein

I agree with Jersey on almost all points. Let me add that for as many racers as you will talk to, almost all of them have what they consider "THE Setup" and almost none of them totally agree.

1)Lower the car, absolutely, as long as you are not bottoming out. I recommend no lower than 14 3/4" in the front and 15 1/4" in the rear measured from the spindle center line to the wheel well opening lip. If it bottoms out then go up a 1/4" at a time until you have it were you need it.
2)We have had great experience with both ATE Blue and Motul 600.
The Blue has a wet boiling point of 392 degrees F and Dry of 536F
Motul has a wet boiling point of 421F and dry of 594F (hence the name 600).
To give you an idea, I ran very hard this weekend at T-Hill and was seeing front rotor temps of 490 F. Either fluid in Dry condition would have met my needs and neither would have if they were wet. I recommend bleeding brakes as part of your prep for each weekend of track use. (My old race car was so hard on over heating the brakes that we had to bleed between each 1/2 hour session.)
3)I run the PFC Z pads as well with great experience. I have three full track weekends on them plus about 10,000 street miles and am still have about 60% pad left.
4)I also agree with the camber settings for very aggressive driving with relatively grippy tires, but our tire temps show that on regular street tires those camber settings may be a bit too aggressive.
I think that Jersey and I have discussed this before so I will preface this with IMHO For Road Racing, I also think that toe out in the front leads to high speed instability as the two front tires try to track in to different directions. What I attempt to do is achieve a dynamic Zero toe condition front and rear. With rolling resistance and bushing deflection, I start with 1/16 to 1/8 " total toe in for the front. As the car moves forward (and when it is under acceleration and braking) the front tires try to toe out. If you start with toe out, the wheels only attempt to toe out more.
Last week I proposed that you should run 1/16 to 1/8" total toe out in the rear and was almost burned at the stake. The logic behind this set up is that on a road coarse, most of the time you spend on the gas and the dynamic force and bushing give causes the rear tires to toe in, so I suggested that your static setting should be slightly toed out. Well not to many people agreed because under braking the rears would tend to toe out even more making the car a bit "rear steery". For me it helps the car turn down and initiate the corner, as I do tend to pick up the throttle very quickly once the car begins to turn down. This weekend I decided to try a compromise from my rear toe out and their rear toe in. The result were that the car had just a touch of understeer entering the corner from what I am used to, but it was more stable. So If I were you I would probably start off with static zero rear toe and see if it works for you.

I hope this helps
:thumbs:

Ps - Did you hear that River City Corvette Club beat the Corvette Forum guys by 20 seconds this week end. :party: Oh baby, I love it. :yesnod:


[Modified by C5stein, 6:31 PM 2/11/2003]