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A GOOD FRIEND OF MINE BOUGHT A 60 RECENTLY IT HAS A 283 IN IT .THE ENGINE WAS REBUILT LAST YEAR. AT HIGH WAY SPEEDS IT DOES NOT OVER HEAT .AT IDEL IT DOES .NEW WATER PUMP DE WITTS ALLUMINUM RADIATOR,CORRECT SHROUD, TRIED A 160 &180 THERMOSTAT, NEW HOSES, TIMING IS CORRECT, .STILL OVER HEATS AT IDEL CAR WAS LOOKED AT BY A MECHANIC HE SAID TWO THINGS MAYBE IT NEEDS MORE TIME FOR BREAKING IN THE RINGS OR CLOGED WATER JACKETS,EVERYTHING ELSE IS OK .ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED .THANKS BOB W IT DRIVES YOU CRAZY WHEN YOU CAN"T SOLVE A PROBLEM
Idle overheating is an airflow and timing issue. What type of fan and fan clutch is he using? What kind of distributor is he using - does it have vacuum advance and is the vacuum advance working?
P.S. - Turn off your caps lock - caps are interpreted as shouting.
Idle overheating is an airflow and timing issue. What type of fan and fan clutch is he using? What kind of distributor is he using - does it have vacuum advance and is the vacuum advance working?
P.S. - Turn off your caps lock - caps are interpreted as shouting.
AND, to add to JohnZ's comments, cars that have the timing too retarded will usually run hot. Chuck
Be sure the car is actually overheating. If possible, borrow an infrared thermometer. Measure at the intake and output of the radiator ] [temperature drop should be clear, if not it may be the radiator] as well as near the thermostat. Measure on a black surface, not a reflective one, such as the thermostat housing.
A lower thermostat opening will not affect the actual temperature that the motor will achieve and is generally a waste of time and money except for racing application. The motor will eventually reach its design temperature regardless of when the thermostat opens.
Our experience is that many times the car is not really hot. If there is no expansion tank connected to the radiator, the car will spill out water if the radiator is completely full.
Are you sure it is overheating. Does it puke all the coolant? Have you put an IR gun on the upper rad hose near the engine outlet? What's the temp?
If the temp there is good, check the temp sender and wire to it. The sender should have a ground to the intake (no sealants). The wire should not lay on the intake, especially where the exhaust is ported under the carb to heat the fuel mixture.
Thanks everyone i will be going over to my friends house in the next few days to see if we can resolve the problem we will try all sugestions .Will keep you posted .Bob W
I'd first confirm that the timing mark on the balancer is properly matched to the timing tab on the chain cover.
Many folks think the timing mark is in the same place on all small block balancers, but that just isn't so. It has been located in several different spots on stock balancers over the years. If you don't have a matched set of marks on the balancer and timing tab, then you can't set the initial timing properly.
I'd also check the mechanical advance in the distributor to make sure it's working right. Many get frozen by rust. The little rubber advance limit bushing frequently cracks and falls off its post. If you then set the initial timing using one of those communist dial-back lights, who knows what advance you have at low speeds?
Thanks for all the help, we took manny sugetions and the temp came down not over heating now.The question i have know the temp creeps up to 220 degrees at idel after a half hour we took the reading with an ir gun at the thermostat housing .Temp outside was 50 degrees. Should the motor temp be runnig around 180 to 190 degrees. OR is 220 ok,any input will be appreciated.Thanks BOB W
Make sure all the seals are in place around the radiator to keep heated air from recirculating and of course make sure that the fan shroud is in place and the fan is of the correct size. Also don't rely on the stock temp gauge as they are notoriously inaccurate.
I have a 6o and went thru the same promblem you are talking about now. I had another port in the intake where i installed another sending unit so i could compair the two reading on adverage they ran 20 degrees apart the added gage run lower.iALSO CHANGED OVER TO ELECTRONIC ING. This seem to help some. last week I installed a dewitt raditor with a180 degree thermostate have not tryed it out yet.I don't know what psi radiator cap you are useing try a 20 to 22 lb. cap.
corvetteman also used a adaptor to get the fan closer to the radiator 3'' 7 blade fan . I don:t know if this information will help any I hope so because I know what you are going thru. not good.
Thank you very much for everyone's input.
We removed the heads off the motor and found that the guy who
rebuilt the motor used the wrong head gasket, the three holes for the
water jackets that are 1" in diameter only had and 1/4" hole in the head gasket which resulted in the motor heating up