Splash shield staples help!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: Westerville oh
Splash shield staples help!
I’m in the process of cleaning up a battery mess and I replacing the splash shield under the battery tray.
1966 327/300 roadster no A/C. I purchased a new splash shield and rubber weather-strip but how in the heck do you staple the rubber to the metal splash shield? Or is there a better way?
Thanks
Mike
1966 327/300 roadster no A/C. I purchased a new splash shield and rubber weather-strip but how in the heck do you staple the rubber to the metal splash shield? Or is there a better way?
Thanks
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,850
Likes: 142
From: Tampa, Fl.
tape the weatherstrip to the shield in the exact place it belongs. drill through the existing holes in the splash shield and carefully push the staples through and gentle fold over w/small hammer. your new staples should exactly match the old ones in width. a-arm splash shields are done the same way, only you gently clamp the rubber dust shield to the inner fender. (use a 1/64" drill bit). works great!
chuck
chuck
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 1
From: Henderson MI
I just got done replacing the seal on my splash shields, it is certainly easier to do with two people, I had help with the a-arm flaps but did the spash shields myself.
I had to drill some new holes in 2 spots cuz the guy that originally stapled'em missed the metal with one end of the staple
When you do the shield with the curve, staple the curve FIRST then go toward ends.
I had a hard time keeping the rubber in place while trying to drill the 1/16 hole in the shield. I found it easier to make the holes in the sheet metal then poke the staple through rubber.
I had to peal the edge back on the rubber to spot the existing hole in my splash pan and then I used a leather needle to poke all the way through the rubber, this worked pretty good.
I tried drilling while 'in place' but found I had too much trouble keeping the drill bit from wandering while trying to drill the sheet metal.
The next hardest thing is to hold staple in place while trying to bend it over, I have a hunk of steel I used as an anvil, it is a round piece about 3-1/2" high 4"dia a base and has a 1"dia flat top (cone shaped).
I supported the head of the staple on this anvil and used point nosed pliers to start bending then used a flat nose punch to finish the bend.
Just take your time and you will be OK
my .02
Chuck
I had to drill some new holes in 2 spots cuz the guy that originally stapled'em missed the metal with one end of the staple
When you do the shield with the curve, staple the curve FIRST then go toward ends.
I had a hard time keeping the rubber in place while trying to drill the 1/16 hole in the shield. I found it easier to make the holes in the sheet metal then poke the staple through rubber.
I had to peal the edge back on the rubber to spot the existing hole in my splash pan and then I used a leather needle to poke all the way through the rubber, this worked pretty good.
I tried drilling while 'in place' but found I had too much trouble keeping the drill bit from wandering while trying to drill the sheet metal.
The next hardest thing is to hold staple in place while trying to bend it over, I have a hunk of steel I used as an anvil, it is a round piece about 3-1/2" high 4"dia a base and has a 1"dia flat top (cone shaped).
I supported the head of the staple on this anvil and used point nosed pliers to start bending then used a flat nose punch to finish the bend.
Just take your time and you will be OK
my .02
Chuck
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Originally Posted by JohnZ
The stainless steel reproduction staples are both incorrect and almost impossible to work with; I make my own from 14-ga. or 16-ga. galvanized steel wire (hardware store item). 
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Conroe TX
I used some staples that go in my air staple gun I think they were 3/8 inch. Rebent them with plyers and a vice and cut the excess. They were easier to work with, I bent them over with a piece of metal and air hammer on low psi.
Dennis
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 545
From: Langhorne, Pa.
tape the weatherstrip to the shield in the exact place it belongs. drill through the existing holes in the splash shield and carefully push the staples through and gentle fold over w/small hammer. your new staples should exactly match the old ones in width. a-arm splash shields are done the same way, only you gently clamp the rubber dust shield to the inner fender. (use a 1/64" drill bit). works great!
chuck
chuck
FYI
** The silver duct tape I used left a lot of the tape adhesive on the shields when I removed the tape Maybe painters tape would be a better option **
Good Luck Chalie
