Rusty X-member - need your advice
03-01-2005, 08:24 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Rusty X-member - need your advice
Chalk it up to the blindness that occurs in an uninformed 1st time corvette purchase...... I have a rusty frame. There are a few spots that are less than perfect but one area, in particular, is terrible. This area is one side of the transmission cross-member.
First off, a frame off is not in the cards at this point in my life. I'm currently in B-school and working full-time so I am short on money and most of all TIME. So - when you respond please keep this in mind.
One side of the x-member is solid and the other is NOT. Up to this point I have been ignoring it but since my transmission is out I'd like to have it bubba fixed - with the cross member or whole frame to be replaced at some time in the future. Could I cut off the bottom half of the one side and have someone weld in some plates? The part that has me worried is where it connects to the main rise rail - someone jacked it at this point in time and deformed it. Please see pics. I am not looking for a transparent job here - just want it to be safe and solid.
IDEAS???
First off, a frame off is not in the cards at this point in my life. I'm currently in B-school and working full-time so I am short on money and most of all TIME. So - when you respond please keep this in mind.
One side of the x-member is solid and the other is NOT. Up to this point I have been ignoring it but since my transmission is out I'd like to have it bubba fixed - with the cross member or whole frame to be replaced at some time in the future. Could I cut off the bottom half of the one side and have someone weld in some plates? The part that has me worried is where it connects to the main rise rail - someone jacked it at this point in time and deformed it. Please see pics. I am not looking for a transparent job here - just want it to be safe and solid.
IDEAS???
03-01-2005, 11:26 PM
#2
Safety Car
Check the rear of the frame rails, and the t-arm pockets.....odds are you have bigger problems there.
no cheap/quick fix I'm afraid
Also, that spliced break line??........ may want to look all those over while it's up in the air.
It's decision time........
no cheap/quick fix I'm afraid
Also, that spliced break line??........ may want to look all those over while it's up in the air.
It's decision time........
03-01-2005, 11:46 PM
#3
Safety Car
Originally Posted by 66427-450
Check the rear of the frame rails, and the t-arm pockets.....odds are you have bigger problems there.
no cheap/quick fix I'm afraid
no cheap/quick fix I'm afraid
I believe most of the frame parts are available from aftermarket suppliers. Try Vette Products of Michigan in Lake Orion, MI.
www.vetteproducts.net/
03-02-2005, 07:38 AM
#4
Racer
Quick, safe, but not cosmetic,
Brian, this same type of damage was found in a Corvette I had in the shop a few years back. The owners short term needs were identical to yours, so we did a quick fix. Don't go through the trouble of trying to have the lower section cut out ( musn't burn through anything here, especially the car ) in order to replace it. Just leave in in place and have a replacement section slightly thicker then the original bent on a brake at your local machine shop ( they will do it for a few dollars ) and after sliding into position to cover the bottom section, have it welded in place over the rust damage.
The repair will be noticable to the trained eye, but it's just a temporary fix, anyway, and will double or triple the streingh of your crossmember. Later if the decision made is to repair the frame, rather then replace, all that is needed is to have the x-member removed, and replaced.
The repair will be noticable to the trained eye, but it's just a temporary fix, anyway, and will double or triple the streingh of your crossmember. Later if the decision made is to repair the frame, rather then replace, all that is needed is to have the x-member removed, and replaced.
03-02-2005, 08:22 AM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Originally Posted by stepinwolf
Brian, this same type of damage was found in a Corvette I had in the shop a few years back. The owners short term needs were identical to yours, so we did a quick fix. Don't go through the trouble of trying to have the lower section cut out ( musn't burn through anything here, especially the car ) in order to replace it. Just leave in in place and have a replacement section slightly thicker then the original bent on a brake at your local machine shop ( they will do it for a few dollars ) and after sliding into position to cover the bottom section, have it welded in place over the rust damage.
The repair will be noticable to the trained eye, but it's just a temporary fix, anyway, and will double or triple the streingh of your crossmember. Later if the decision made is to repair the frame, rather then replace, all that is needed is to have the x-member removed, and replaced.
The repair will be noticable to the trained eye, but it's just a temporary fix, anyway, and will double or triple the streingh of your crossmember. Later if the decision made is to repair the frame, rather then replace, all that is needed is to have the x-member removed, and replaced.
Cheapest, least time consuming way out and will last for years if you choose. I wouldn't worry about the brake line union if it's not leaking. That's what unions are for.
03-02-2005, 10:12 AM
#6
Brian,
It sounds like Stepinwolf gave some good advice.
On the other side of things, I give you all the sympathy you can take as I bought my first vette, took someone's word on it that it was straight, re-did the whole chassis and then learned that the frame was both bent and out of square. It's costing me thousands of dollars to fix (body back off, engine and tranny out, suspension off, weld attachments and straighten, re-paint frame, and re-assemble. No fun, but it feels good to be doing it right.
In light of your current situation, I would either hold off until you can afford the time and money required (it's probably not going to get much worse if you have it garaged), or find a way to do the temp fix above.
Good luck,
James
It sounds like Stepinwolf gave some good advice.
On the other side of things, I give you all the sympathy you can take as I bought my first vette, took someone's word on it that it was straight, re-did the whole chassis and then learned that the frame was both bent and out of square. It's costing me thousands of dollars to fix (body back off, engine and tranny out, suspension off, weld attachments and straighten, re-paint frame, and re-assemble. No fun, but it feels good to be doing it right.
In light of your current situation, I would either hold off until you can afford the time and money required (it's probably not going to get much worse if you have it garaged), or find a way to do the temp fix above.
Good luck,
James
03-02-2005, 11:34 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Brian,
I just wanted to add in a word of encouragement that in time it will all work out. Be patient.
I was in a similar situation many, many years ago, I had high hopes of doing my c1 the correct way but No time, No money and then a growing family and career to deal with. Finally after 20 years of the car pretty much just sitting, I have finally started putting my car into the shape I dreamed of 25 years ago when I bought her.
The advantage now is I have the resources to do it correctly, the space with workshop that is necessary, patience that you learn with age, some financial freedom to purchase parts because they are good not because they are cheap and kids old enough to lend a hand.
The point of this long-winded post is to let you know others have been were you are and eventually (some of us longer then others) reach their goals. Enjoy the journey.
I just wanted to add in a word of encouragement that in time it will all work out. Be patient.
I was in a similar situation many, many years ago, I had high hopes of doing my c1 the correct way but No time, No money and then a growing family and career to deal with. Finally after 20 years of the car pretty much just sitting, I have finally started putting my car into the shape I dreamed of 25 years ago when I bought her.
The advantage now is I have the resources to do it correctly, the space with workshop that is necessary, patience that you learn with age, some financial freedom to purchase parts because they are good not because they are cheap and kids old enough to lend a hand.
The point of this long-winded post is to let you know others have been were you are and eventually (some of us longer then others) reach their goals. Enjoy the journey.
03-02-2005, 12:16 PM
#8
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Clinton Township MI
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Cruise-In III Veteran
Brian,
my58 hit the nail on the head...think we may have gone to different schools together!!
You do have a major jump start in bringing that '5 back. So, if you have to mothball her for awhile, you've still got her. In the meanwhile, all good advice on a short term, structurally sound, fix. Go for it.
I'm in your camp, rootin' for ya!!
Regards,
Jim (6T5RUSH)
my58 hit the nail on the head...think we may have gone to different schools together!!
You do have a major jump start in bringing that '5 back. So, if you have to mothball her for awhile, you've still got her. In the meanwhile, all good advice on a short term, structurally sound, fix. Go for it. I'm in your camp, rootin' for ya!!
Regards,
Jim (6T5RUSH)
03-02-2005, 01:33 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I've had this car since late 2001 now. I found all the issues shortly after I brought it home and played with it for awhile. This car will never see water in its current state so may plan was to do the following:
1. Drive it
2. Rebuild Motor
4. Drive it
4. Rebuild Trans
----->>>> I'm here
5. Drive it a lot (even with the current issues)
6. Rebuild Chassis ~2010 timeframe (hopefully)
7. Drive it some more
8. Rebuild Body and interior ~2020 and beyond
9. Share it with my kids (drive it)
Plan on purchasing a business (bye bye corporate life and stability) and having kids within the next 5 years so funds and time will be limited..... may have to "float" for awhile... but I cannot be without a Corvette so I have to deal with what I have.
Thanks for the angles guys.
brian
p.s. -- had I spent another $10K on the purchase of a midyear, I probably could have saved $20k in future restoration. BUT..... I was set on buying one before I got married. In my future: new frame, drip rails, fiber glass work, b pillars, ugh......................
1. Drive it
2. Rebuild Motor
4. Drive it
4. Rebuild Trans
----->>>> I'm here
5. Drive it a lot (even with the current issues)
6. Rebuild Chassis ~2010 timeframe (hopefully)
7. Drive it some more
8. Rebuild Body and interior ~2020 and beyond
9. Share it with my kids (drive it)
Plan on purchasing a business (bye bye corporate life and stability) and having kids within the next 5 years so funds and time will be limited..... may have to "float" for awhile... but I cannot be without a Corvette so I have to deal with what I have.
Thanks for the angles guys.
brian
p.s. -- had I spent another $10K on the purchase of a midyear, I probably could have saved $20k in future restoration. BUT..... I was set on buying one before I got married. In my future: new frame, drip rails, fiber glass work, b pillars, ugh......................
Last edited by Allcoupedup; 03-02-2005 at 01:43 PM.
03-03-2005, 09:26 PM
#10
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 1999
Location: Bartlett IL
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Brian,
I can empathize with the lack of time/cash/energy that you are facing right now. I would say that if the frame is OK in the trailing arm pocket area (i.e., safe), then the best temporary fix for the crossmember is to weld a piece over the affected area until you are ready to pull the entire car apart and permanently fix it by welding in a new crossmember or replacing the frame.
I can empathize with the lack of time/cash/energy that you are facing right now. I would say that if the frame is OK in the trailing arm pocket area (i.e., safe), then the best temporary fix for the crossmember is to weld a piece over the affected area until you are ready to pull the entire car apart and permanently fix it by welding in a new crossmember or replacing the frame.
