ro.co3

I dont want to beat a dead horse but , does the car have its battery on the drivers side with an opening in the fender to service it. Its one of the better ways to make sure its a factory a/c car. I've been told about ones that the dash was cut for the vent and the ***** but rarely is the fender access panel installed. Also if original,the fan will be seven blade not five. Hope that helps because real factory a/c on this car might make the differance in weather or not it makes since dollar wise. My 2 cents worth.Good luck what ever you do.

Mr D.

Battery is mounted on the drivers side. Not sure what you mean by "opening in the fender to service it"?

Mr D.

I committed to buy this car today with the owner contingent upon a final inspection of the bird cage (I don’t see any problems here).

This car was a GMAC Repo in 1972 (Jacksonville) with no motor or trans. The current owner bought it in 1972 and installed the Ecklers flair kit, LT1 engine and painted it. He has done nothing else but drive it since then. Other then the seats and outside mirrors all removed parts come with the car. Radio, forward parking lights, fiberglass parking light panels(these were cut off when the flair kit was installed), forward bumpers and brackets, Fan and Shroud, and Power Steering setup (he never installed this).

More to follow

Marks69BB

Good for you! Congrats!

It sounds like you got a great deal. I asked earlier about the trim tag info on ext/int colors. Did you get that info? If so, would you stick with the original color scheme?

Welcome to the 65/69 crowd! I have 69BB and 65SB coupes.

Looking forward to your follow-up posts and pics. Gotta have them pics!

Sky65

"engine pad is stamped CE 3A52 which supports the LT1 statement"

Is there a way to interpret the CE engine number? What in your number indicates an LT1? I ask because I have a CE block in my 65 and I am trying to determine, if possible, what engine it is.

Thanks
Tom

66for2

If you look at my pictures you will see that I purchased a 66 in similar shape. I had a shop put the body back to the original configuration and repaint in original color. It looks great and I am very happy with it. The motor is not original. I am still in the process of putting it back together and can't wait to drive it again. Depending on what you have the body shop do, you may be looking more at $15,000 for their work. I drove mine for a year or so before I decided to put the body back to original. The more I drove the car, the more I wanted it to look correct. Good luck with your decision and let us know what you do.

Mr D.

Trim Tag shows Jan 28 1965 build, Glen Green with Saddle Vinyl. Not sure at this point what the final color will be.

[/QUOTE]s there a way to interpret the CE engine number? What in your number indicates an LT1? I ask because I have a CE block in my 65 and I am trying to determine, if possible, what engine it is.[/QUOTE]

I was just going off what the owner stated about this being a over the counter LT1 and the 202 heads and CE number on the pad support that.

stingrayl76

Congratulations on giving an old Vette a good home and a new lease on life! I'm sure you will enjoy the project as many of us Vette nuts do.

FYI, there should be a removable panel in the rear of the left fender well
to provide access for batttery removal since the M/C blocks easy access from the top.

Mr D.

There are a couple of way to skin this cat,

1. out source the whole job and spend 10k'ish (things tend to run a little cheaper in the south). Local Vette shop is saying 54 hrs to hang 2 rear qtrs and 1 Pc nose. Panels will run anywhere from $1500 (HL) to $4400 (PM).

2. I hang a 1 PC and 2 rear qtrs myself. Getting the car stripped and in primer/wet sanded is in my relm of doable. Hanging the panels, well there are several books on the subject. I have access to a paint booth at any given time so thats not a problem. I can hire someone to shoot the paint (I'm sure I would mess that up). Anyway, thinking out of the box. I shot the top of my 66 vette a couple years ago and it turned out ok so I'm not completely out of touch with body work.

I do plan on using Press Molded panels which ever way I go.

Call me

Seaside63

If you replace the entire front end with the jig-assembled, press-molded replacement and new rear quarters, think how easy it will be to strip the paint off the remaining car.

Mr D.

You were reading my mind!

John S 1961

Very good move, you would have regretted letting it go by. Where would the next one come from??. You wont be sorry, Realistically I think that in a couple of years all of the barn cars and flared cars and anything under 20K will be total junk. You now have a real heirloom, drive it, enjoy it, dont feel compelled to shred lots of 1000 dollar bills.
JLS

JohnZ

s there a way to interpret the CE engine number? What in your number indicates an LT1? I ask because I have a CE block in my 65 and I am trying to determine, if possible, what engine it is.[/QUOTE]

I was just going off what the owner stated about this being a over the counter LT1 and the 202 heads and CE number on the pad support that.[/QUOTE]

There's no way to determine the innards of a "CE" block without tearing it down; all the "CE" number shows is that it was assembled in 1973. The "CE" short-blocks were ordered by part number off a chart to match the innards of the failed engine, and that part number doesn't appear anywhere on the engine.

kurtibm

One piece nose on eBay >>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

Seaside63

I have a mint/perfect example of that one piece front end at home. I bought it several years ago and have never mounted it. Although it is extremely well made, I decided to budget for the reproduction front-end that is made with original style press molded panels and jig-assembled.

These are from $3600-$4200 depending on where you buy them but they match the originals closer than anything else available.

BUT... one major advantage of a one-piece aftermarket front end is they won't crack or split like the originals and they won't show any bonding seams.