rahzip

Heres the problem my 327/350hp will not turn over 5200rpm and it seems kind of lazy getting there. So far I have changed plugs R 45 AC delco's .035 gap. I adjusted the dwell to 40 degrees. Timing is set at 15 degrees with vac advance unhooked at 650rpm about 38 degrees at
2500 rpm no vac advance. With advance hooked up 20 and close to 60!
I changed the the springs but not the weights in the dist. I changed the secondaries spring in the carb to a lighter spring the carb is a holley 2818 with 65 primary jets and 76 secondary. The mixture screws are turn out about one and one half turns. dist cap, rotor and wires look great as do the points. It smells like its running fat but no black smoke. The engine seemed to smooth out if the lead timing was about 20 degrees. I also checked to make sure the outer ring had not moved on the harmonic balancer. What gives? Any ideas gentleman?

65air_coupe

At first blush, it sounds like your secondaries aren't opening.

rahzip

You know, I thought about that!!! It's hard to hear with the side exhaust. So that could be. I quess I could put a screw on the secondaries to make sure they open. If that fixes it then get to crackin on that carb and find the problem Huh?

67L36Driver

"I adjusted the dwell to 40 degrees."

Dwell should be 28-32 degrees I think.

BTW I was raised in zip code 63129.

Seaside63

Whenever I hear about a car that can't rev up I always think the first thing to check is the ignition coil.

Worth it to replace with a cheap, generic replacement and check..

Chuck Gongloff

With a 327/350, you have a hydraulic cam. Might just be running out of "cam" at that RPM. The redline for that engine is probably about 5300. The dwell should be 28-32. Chuck

rahzip

I could be running out of cam I quess. But it seems like it pulls well from
2500 to about 4200 then it gets lazy. Could be cam? With the dwell set
at 32 it started misfiring at 4200 rpm. I wonder if the spring on the points is too light??? Hmmmm

62fuelie

A 327/350 ain't gonna run out of cam at those kind of RPM.

Check your timing specs again. 40* dwell is way high. Should be 28-32* as previously noted. You are looking for a total (vac disconnected and plugged) of 36-38* initial and mechanical, with all the mechanical in by 25-2800RPM. (plus whatever the vacuum can adds at low vacuum)

Really sounds like a fuel problem, but the ignition needs to be right too.

One ugly possibility is a wiped out cam, but I think you'd have some secondary indications if that were the case. I would verify the timing chain condition and position, especially if the engine has some miles on it.

vetsvette2002

Chuck,

I've been known to power shift my 327-350 at 5800. Redline is 6000 and it should pull really strong up there as well.
The dwell should be 28-32.

Sounds more like the secondaries are not opening.

Don

Corbrastang

If you are not dead set on keeping the points i would ditch them and replace it with an flame thrower system. While you are at it get a new coil and some thicker plug wires,if you don't already have 8mm or above-you will be amazed at the difference. I hate points and see no reason to have them on a car if you are going to drive it often.
How long have you owned the car?? Somebody might have replaced the cam with a smaller one in the past. does the car feel like it is sputtering or just dying down?? Even if your secondaries were not kicking in you would still be able to take the car to a higher RPM, it just takes longer.

SWCDuke

The OE centrifugal advance on L-79 is not all in until 5000, but most is in by about 3500. Initial timing should be set at 8-10. Since the redline is 6000 I recommend the high breaker arm tension points like NAPA/Echlin CS786. If the engine is breaking up at high revs it could be point bounce due to not enough breaker arm tension, excess dist. shaft end play, or a worn, wobbly breaker plate. High rev breakup can also be caused by a clogged fuel filter.

If the engine just "goes soft" at 5200 and is reluctant to pull all the way to the 6000 RPM redline, but continues to fire on all eight, it's probably a carb secondary opening issue.

Duke

rahzip

Thanks for the responces from everyone!!! 28-32 degree dwell keeps coming up, As I mentioned I set the dwell at 32 and the problem was worse it would start breaking up around 4200. Duke, I thought about the points there is blue streak points in the dist. now. Thats a cheap easy check out. I'll try. Keep those thoughts coming. I'm on my way to the garage now. I'll keep you abreast of the happenings!!!!



Off the subject but I went and check on Torque Thrust II's 17x7's
Iwas told by American Racing 4 1/4" back spacing. The guy at the wheel shop said it sounded wrong he made a call and said I need 3"BS
17x7x3 with 215/55R17 $1700.00 With off brand american made tires
seemed a little high?

Hitch

3" of backspacing is WRONG..... 4 1/4 should work but 4" is safe.... Dave...

oh and 1700 sounds a little high....

SWCDuke

In your original post you said the engine will "not turn over 5200". Now you say it's "breaking up at 4200".

What's it doing? Is it "laying down" - continuing to fire on all eight, but the power is rapidlly rolling off, or does it start misfiring. Two different symptoms, two likely different causes.

You guys need to describe the problems accurately and unambiguously or you send everyone, including yourselves, on a wild goose chase.

Standard Ignition "Blue Streak" points are available in several versions including standard and high breaker arm tension, so saying you have "Blue Streak" points doesn't convey any meaningful information.

Duke

SpartyGW

If the dwell setting change doesn't improve it, have you considered that it's something in the valvetrain - specifically the springs?

I don't know the history here. Have you owned it for some time now and this is a problem that has recently developed, or are we debugging a newly purchased car?

-gw

435er

A buddy of mine was having the same problem with his 66 350 hp.We
checked every thing we could think of, finally sent the distributor to a
well known restorer. Nothing was resolved so the car was set to a well
known tuner. Its hard to believe but an electronic distributor conversion
cured the problem. It now pulls eaisly to 6000 rpm.

435er

66ragtop owner

I think you need to get the dwell straightened out first then go from there.

REO Speedwagon would be the band from the 70's with the album title " You Can Tune A Piano But You can't Tune A Fish"

Thanks
Brian

vetsvette2002

I agree. More accurate info is required. I use Accell points and condensor in my STOCK 327-350hp. and don't see the need for an electron ignition. When a conversion fails, and they will fail, they go without notice and no way to figure out what went wrong. With the stock type system, troubleshooting is a breeze. Plus I can carry a spare set in the glove box. Can't do that with a Pertonix or similar.

So, what is it doing? going flat, shutting down, breaking up as the revs go up, WASSUP?

Don

rahzip

Duke
NOTICE: With the dwell at 32 it misfires at 4200. I understand there is different breaker arm tensions, I mention the Blue Streak to point I wasn't using some cheap autzone crap! I apperciate your help I hope I dont offend. But I have tried to describe this the best I can And keep it short at the same time. It seems some may not be reading all the things I have posted in responce.
Dave

67L36Driver

Worn out dist shaft/bushings. Side slop prevents setting dwell properly.