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I am going to be installing jet hot coated headers on the 283 in my 58 and am looking for some advice on fasteners.
There are a lot of different type bolts available in many grades what is the opinion on the best choice.
They sell header bolts with washers built in, ones with 12points, ones with extra small heads, some with Allen head etc.. They are sold in stainless, in grade 8, in Chrome, in regular steel, in Gold Iridited, etc.. Lots of sales hype but what is a good choice.
I've had many headers on many cars over the years. I'm not necessarily brand loyal, but'Ive had good luck with ARP. However, any grade 8 header bolt should be fine. I prefer the bolts with the smaller heads; these usually take a 3/8" wrench or socket. On my '59 all of the header bolts, and for that matter, spark plugs are easily accessed because of the header design. On applications where a header tube blocks access to a header bolt, the smaller heads really help.
What kind/brand of headers are you going to be running? Wes
I use the Stage 8 locking header bolts. They're kind of a pain to get the locks on but they sure don't back out. You can also use either a 3/8" hex or an Allen wrench to tighten.
From experience!
You may have to try a few different bolts to see if they fit your particular headers. Generally, the one on the inside of the two end cylinders are the tighest/least amount of room for a socket. You may have to use a box wrench on these exclusively. Your center ports are good for thin wall deep sockets. You get more contact grip if you use an 8 or 12 point socket/wrench of high quality. Bolts should be ARP Grade 8. You don't want a socket to spread (Tiawan stuff) and round off the corners of the bolts. Snap- On may have a particular thin wall deep socket, but check Allen, Armstrong, Proto, and SK if you don't have the right thing. Don't use an open end wrench on any bolts, gauranteed to round off the corners. Some companies have thin wall sockets for tight area such as this. If your local parts/hardware store is lacking, go to MSCdirect.com, they sell at cost, and have a very large selection and you can buy individual sockets/wrenches. Chase your threads with a tap to be clean for good torque setting. Make sure you follow the torque pattern, use the highest quality gaskets for your engine. None better than Fel-Pro. If your heads are different then stock, maybe round or D port I'm pretty sure they have a specific gasket to fit. Dont use gasket sealer and gradually tighten them up, don't overtighten! Retighten after a couple of cycles of the engine. Should go fine! Dennis
There are many ways to go. Some folks have great success using RTV only with no gaskets! I used aluminum gaskets with RTV. No leaks. I used stainless steel allen head bolts with high collar lock washers. Haven't had any back out, I've checked them a couple times.
You're certainly right that there are a lot of options!
Wes, I believe the headers are hedman but not sure, they may be modified or custom. They have been on for 30 years, I just fixed some dents, polished them up the best I could and am jet coating them.
Unless you enjoy changing blown header gaskets and checking the bolts once a week, use something that locks, like the Stage 8 bolts. On project cars, I use ARP pre-drilled small hex-head NASCAR header bolts and safety-wire them. Also, use anti-seize on the bolt threads so you can remove them easily when necessary.
I assume that you will be using an alternator bracket attached to the #1 or #2 cylinder. Be forewarned that if the headers have thick flanges, the bolts supplied in the kits may not be long enough to ensure good engagement of these two bolts. Replace these with bolts 1/4" longer. Be sure that they don't bottom out, though there is little chance of that.
Mine worked loose and the alternator almost fell off. Luckily the belt first squeeled and I pulled over to find one bolt missing and the other ready to fall out.