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Do you guys think it could be something like a vapor lock or maybe its starving for fuel at higher rpm/speeds??
You could possibly be experiencing vapor lock in the FI fuel pump or in the spyder, especially if you have some "winter" gas left in the car. It is very unusual for this to happen when the car is running, however. Usually a difficult hot start condition, or won't idle after running at speed. I really don't think that's what the problem is.
Do you still have the original style dual point FI distributor? Also, do you have a fuel cut off solenoid installed? If so, it's vaugely possible that the solenoid is malfunctioning when hot and cutting the fuel off.
When it dies, take a spare spark plug and install in one of the plug wires. Ground the threaded pportion and crank the engine. Any spark? If not, you have an electrical problem. If you do have a spark, it may likely be fuel related.
I was going to try the spark plug check but after I roll to a stop I turn the key and it fires back up. So the spark is there at that point. I did pull off the fuel filter (2yrs old) and was able to shake some dirt out, not to bad though. Also when it does begin to die , if i floor the pedal it dies completely and if i let off it tries to come back a little and I can keep it going a while (1/2 to 1 mile) by tapping on the gas pedal until it eventually completely dies. Car stops, turn the key for a few seconds and it fires back up.
"It's a stock fulie the only mod being a pertronix put in a couple of years back w/ no problems."
How much distributer shaft side play will a Petronix tolerate? I understand that they are a magnetic switch (points) but the fulie dist has to drive the fuel pump and the tach which will increase the bushing wear.
A stock '57 - '62 Corvette prefabricated hose connecting the engine fuel pump to the line from the tank will fail first from the inside. It will collapse internally when the pump is sucking hard on the line at high speed. The engine will then starve for fuel. When the engine dies (and the pump stops sucking), the hose will open up a little again.
The cure is to change the hose. Paragon and NAPA Auto Parts sell them for about $10. They are still manufactured by Weatherhead, the original supplier.
Jery has an excellent idea. When I said the points will last forever, I meant the way these old cars are used. My 62 FI is the same as when I redid it in 1984, including the ponts.
Sounds like you're running out of fuel to me. Have you checked the condition of the injection pump drive cable?(Distributor to Fuelmeter) The ends can become worn and slip causing loss of fuel pressure. Easy to pull out and check. If you have a spare, slip it in and try it.
Had to work all weekend so I have'nt had time to check. I do have a spare drive cable I will try and also picked up a spare filter. I will let you guys know as soon as I can get to it. I really do appreciate all the advice.
OK, I'm back and still have the same problem. Run over 3k rpm for any amount of time and it loses power but comes back as long as i keep it at slower speeds. Up to this point I have replaced the fuel pump and drive cable. New fuel filter, along w/ new hose from fuel line to pump. Pulled the pertronix and put points back in and checked timing. Replaced coil. I even put in a new battery because I had one on the shelf and thought what the hell. I am slowely running out of possibilities. About all I have left is plugs and wires. Any guesses??? What about a bad ground maybe?
I would narrow the problem to a single system before replacing any more parts. If you can cause the engine to die by running over 3,000 rpm, then do so while sitting still.
First remove the upper fuel meter bracket and vent screen so you can see into the fuel bowl. Notice the float level when the bowl is full. Then hook up your timing light before starting the car.
Keep the engine speed about 3,500 rpm by adjusting the screw on the fast idle cam. When the engine starts to die, press the trigger on your timing light to see if the light flashes are even, strong pulses. After the engine dies, look into the fuel bowl to see if the float has fallen.
This test could at least limit your future experiments to one system: the ignition system, the fuel supply system, or the fuel injection unit.
Last edited by jerrybramlett; Jun 16, 2005 at 08:43 AM.
Well, after all that work it came down to a clogged float assembly inside the gas tank. I want to thank all the replies on this topic. It sure makes owning these cars a lot better knowing I can turn to the forum whenever I need help.
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