Brake help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 652
From: Richmond VA
Brake help
I am trying to find a post that I seen on the forum in the past 6 months telling the sequence used to the replace the brake fluid in a 62. I can't seem to find the post using search. Could someone possibly tell me where to find the post or tell me the bleed sequence?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 4
From: Plano Texas
First, bench bleed the master cylinder or have a helper push on the brake pedal slowly while you bleed the end of the master cylinder into the reservoir to remove all air. Next, bleed the right rear, left rear, right front, and finally the left front. It may take two go-arounds to bleed all of the air out. I find the best way is still the old fashion way. Wife in car with some promised incentive, and me under the car repeating, "down" and "up". Good luck!! 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 553
From: Sun Prairie WI
Seems like you have 2 questions -- the order of cycling for the system flush; then the order of bleeding.
For the flush, I believe Duke's recommendations were to try to cycle about a quart through the system starting with the shortest line first & working to the longest using about 6-8 strokes per bleed screw insuring the m/c stays replenished.
Bleeding follows flushing & is done in the conventional order of RR, LR, RF, LF.
For the flush, I believe Duke's recommendations were to try to cycle about a quart through the system starting with the shortest line first & working to the longest using about 6-8 strokes per bleed screw insuring the m/c stays replenished.
Bleeding follows flushing & is done in the conventional order of RR, LR, RF, LF.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 12,712
Likes: 2,270
To flush the system drain the m/c contents, clean the m/c reservoir as required to remove any sludge or debris, and fill with fresh fluid. Only use absolutely clean tools and rags to clean the m/c to avoid any petroleum product contamination.
I recommend DOT 4 fluid (assuming your system has not been converted to DOT 5, silicone) since there is evidence that DOT 4 has both more resistance to moisture absorption and a better corrosion inhibitor package.
Begin by bleeding the LF since this is the shortest distance to purge the old fluid from the m/c to junction block.
After this the sequence is not really important. Bleed each corner about 6-12 pumps and go around the car two to three times.
By the time you have bleed about a quart through, the system should be well flushed and effluent should be clear.
As long as you do not let the m/c reservoir go dry, there should be no air introduced into the system. If you DO let it go dry, considerably more bleeding will be required to purge the air.
Figure out how many pumps drop the m/c to about one-quarter capacity, then refill it after that number of pumps. If you screw up and allow the m/c to suck air, bleed it out through the LF as this is the shortest distance out of the system.
Duke
I recommend DOT 4 fluid (assuming your system has not been converted to DOT 5, silicone) since there is evidence that DOT 4 has both more resistance to moisture absorption and a better corrosion inhibitor package.
Begin by bleeding the LF since this is the shortest distance to purge the old fluid from the m/c to junction block.
After this the sequence is not really important. Bleed each corner about 6-12 pumps and go around the car two to three times.
By the time you have bleed about a quart through, the system should be well flushed and effluent should be clear.
As long as you do not let the m/c reservoir go dry, there should be no air introduced into the system. If you DO let it go dry, considerably more bleeding will be required to purge the air.
Figure out how many pumps drop the m/c to about one-quarter capacity, then refill it after that number of pumps. If you screw up and allow the m/c to suck air, bleed it out through the LF as this is the shortest distance out of the system.
Duke
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
This makes it a piece of cake - no watching the master cylinder reservoir level, no pumping the pedal; just pump up the bottle and walk around the car cracking bleeders. Flush/bleed in minutes, not hours - one of the best tools I have.
