Stop light problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 1
From: Henderson MI
Stop light problem
I am having a problem with the driver side stop light. Only one stop light lights.
The turn signals work both sides (front and rear) and running lights work both sides (front and rear), so I know the filaments are good and the wires going to the lamps via rear harness are good.
I suspect the turn signal switch assy, but cannot confirm.
The manual only shows the wires to the backside of the connector, not on the turn signal switch side.
Does someone have a schematic of the turn signal switch they can e-mail or post?
Thanks,
Chuck
The turn signals work both sides (front and rear) and running lights work both sides (front and rear), so I know the filaments are good and the wires going to the lamps via rear harness are good.
I suspect the turn signal switch assy, but cannot confirm.
The manual only shows the wires to the backside of the connector, not on the turn signal switch side.
Does someone have a schematic of the turn signal switch they can e-mail or post?
Thanks,
Chuck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
Originally Posted by Vette-66
Which ground location did you find at fault?
Thanks,
Chuck
Thanks,
Chuck
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: IL
Just found my Mom's problem with her '59. I'll update my post also but try this.
Using a standard test light, with the bulb inside, test the first 2 top fuses with the car just sitting there. You should have a bright blub. To verify bulb brightness, test the red wire at the back of the key switch. Again, bright light. If the bulb at the fuse is not bright then this is the first sign to a voltage issue. Go back to the first two top fuses, check with light, and turn on the headlight or parking lights. It doesn't matter which because the sightest power draw will cause those two to drop out-no power. Both are tied together at the back of the fuse panel.
I disconneted the battery, and removed the fuse panel from the inside firewall. During the screw removal, corrosion chunks were falling to the floor. I knew I was in trouble. Sure enough, the terminal with the Red power wire from the Amp Gauge/Key Switch had rusted away and could have started a fire. Some of the other connections were quesionable too.
Not saying it's definately your problem, but just a side note, a fuse panel replacement kit goes for about $100 including new fuse buse parts (which is what was rusted). And they're in stock, so you won't have to buy a complete harness at $350, if you don't have to.
Watch my post tomorrow sometime when I'll up load pictures of the fuse panel issue.
Later.
Using a standard test light, with the bulb inside, test the first 2 top fuses with the car just sitting there. You should have a bright blub. To verify bulb brightness, test the red wire at the back of the key switch. Again, bright light. If the bulb at the fuse is not bright then this is the first sign to a voltage issue. Go back to the first two top fuses, check with light, and turn on the headlight or parking lights. It doesn't matter which because the sightest power draw will cause those two to drop out-no power. Both are tied together at the back of the fuse panel.
I disconneted the battery, and removed the fuse panel from the inside firewall. During the screw removal, corrosion chunks were falling to the floor. I knew I was in trouble. Sure enough, the terminal with the Red power wire from the Amp Gauge/Key Switch had rusted away and could have started a fire. Some of the other connections were quesionable too.
Not saying it's definately your problem, but just a side note, a fuse panel replacement kit goes for about $100 including new fuse buse parts (which is what was rusted). And they're in stock, so you won't have to buy a complete harness at $350, if you don't have to.
Watch my post tomorrow sometime when I'll up load pictures of the fuse panel issue.
Later.
