Headache Bellhousing Finally Dialed in for the Keisler
06-21-2005, 11:41 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Headache Bellhousing Finally Dialed in for the Keisler
Thank you Mike from Montreal for helping me to better understand how to align my bellhousing. 
In case anyone else also has to go through this procedure here are some things that I found out through alot of trial and error (the bellhousing went on and off about 20 times).
First make sure you know where the high side is on the offset dowel pin. I finally discovered that the lakewood pins were all over the map and the slot in the dowel pin with the 7,14,21 number above the slot had no relationship to the high side of the offset pin. In fact the location of the high side in a set of pins were each different. Knowing where the high side is helps to understand which way to turn the pins in order to increase or decrease your readings.
A 1000th of an inch is very very tiny and to make adjustments you need to remember that what seems to you as a slight turn can send the readings on your dial indicator off the chart. Make a mark on the pins and the block as a point of referrence. I had to take the pins out each time I made an adjustment. Trying to turn the pins while still in the block only served to mangle the shape of the pin (soft steel). I also found out that when you start getting close, you may only need to turn one of the pins and not both.
Last it helps to have a teenage son who understands up and down, left and right, positive and negtative. Thank you Alex.
In case anyone else also has to go through this procedure here are some things that I found out through alot of trial and error (the bellhousing went on and off about 20 times).First make sure you know where the high side is on the offset dowel pin. I finally discovered that the lakewood pins were all over the map and the slot in the dowel pin with the 7,14,21 number above the slot had no relationship to the high side of the offset pin. In fact the location of the high side in a set of pins were each different. Knowing where the high side is helps to understand which way to turn the pins in order to increase or decrease your readings.
A 1000th of an inch is very very tiny and to make adjustments you need to remember that what seems to you as a slight turn can send the readings on your dial indicator off the chart. Make a mark on the pins and the block as a point of referrence. I had to take the pins out each time I made an adjustment. Trying to turn the pins while still in the block only served to mangle the shape of the pin (soft steel). I also found out that when you start getting close, you may only need to turn one of the pins and not both.
Last it helps to have a teenage son who understands up and down, left and right, positive and negtative. Thank you Alex.
06-22-2005, 07:25 PM
#2
Intermediate
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: yorktown heights new york
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Offset dowel set screw
Hi Guys,
I was having the same problem on my 88. I am using Moroso offset dowels. The one other problem is the instructions that came with the dowels. There is a small set screw and according to the directions you are supposed to “drill and tap 8-32 hole on the center of the dowel hole .400 “ below block bell housing face” there words. What dowel hole? Does this mean you drill a hole in the top of the dowel itself?
I would appreciate any help.
Bill.
I was having the same problem on my 88. I am using Moroso offset dowels. The one other problem is the instructions that came with the dowels. There is a small set screw and according to the directions you are supposed to “drill and tap 8-32 hole on the center of the dowel hole .400 “ below block bell housing face” there words. What dowel hole? Does this mean you drill a hole in the top of the dowel itself?
I would appreciate any help.
Bill.
06-22-2005, 11:19 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Do the Moroso pins slide easily in and out of the dowel holes in the block? It sounds like they want you to drill a hole from the side of the block into the dowel pin holes so that the set screw could be used to hold the pins in place. If this is the case you would be able to make your adjustment without removing the bellhousing (just loosen the bellhousing bolts), turn the pins slightly then lock the set screw each time.
06-23-2005, 07:46 AM
#4
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Thanks for the reply.
I haven't put them in yet. I am still drilling out the old ones. the motor is still in the car so I was not able to hit them from the front. Drilling seems to work, at least on the first one. If I have to drill from the side of the block there is no room to do that. Is it possable that they want you to drill into the side of the bellhousing to hold the pin in position after dialing it in?
Bill.
I haven't put them in yet. I am still drilling out the old ones. the motor is still in the car so I was not able to hit them from the front. Drilling seems to work, at least on the first one. If I have to drill from the side of the block there is no room to do that. Is it possable that they want you to drill into the side of the bellhousing to hold the pin in position after dialing it in?
Bill.
06-23-2005, 10:06 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good luck trying to do this with the motor still in the car! I guess it could be done but it's difficult enough trying to get things to line up even with the motor out of the car and on an engine stand.
Do have the car on a lift?
You could drive the old pins forward and out of the block. You do not want to the mess up the dowel pin holes with a drill. The pins need to fit exact.
I guess you could drill the side of the bellhousing and run a set screw in that way but are the pins going to fit tight into the block or are they loose? I'm still trying to figure out how your going to do this with the motor still in the car???
If your putting in a keisler, I'd pull the motor.
Do have the car on a lift?
You could drive the old pins forward and out of the block. You do not want to the mess up the dowel pin holes with a drill. The pins need to fit exact.
I guess you could drill the side of the bellhousing and run a set screw in that way but are the pins going to fit tight into the block or are they loose? I'm still trying to figure out how your going to do this with the motor still in the car???
If your putting in a keisler, I'd pull the motor.
06-23-2005, 10:12 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I never heard of aligning the bellhousing until I bought the keisler. This will be my third time pulling the motor and wherever the bellhousing bolted up that's where it stayed. What dial indicator?
06-23-2005, 11:34 PM
#8
Former Vendor
Originally Posted by Plan B
I never heard of aligning the bellhousing until I bought the keisler. This will be my third time pulling the motor and wherever the bellhousing bolted up that's where it stayed. What dial indicator?
The TKO trannies have much closer tolerances than the Muncies and T-10's, so they are more sensative to misalignment of the input shaft.
06-24-2005, 11:25 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Plan B
Now that you've done one the next time will be quick and easy. I put a lakewood scatter shield on mine and dialed it in and it was in tolerance so I didn't have to mess with the pins. A buddy of mine did the same thing and his was off. He didn't want to mess with the pins so he assembled his as is, he now has a hard time with down shifting.
You did the right thing by adjusting yours. Your next challenge will be to set the geometry on your throw out bearing.
Good luck
Russ
Now that you've done one the next time will be quick and easy. I put a lakewood scatter shield on mine and dialed it in and it was in tolerance so I didn't have to mess with the pins. A buddy of mine did the same thing and his was off. He didn't want to mess with the pins so he assembled his as is, he now has a hard time with down shifting.
You did the right thing by adjusting yours. Your next challenge will be to set the geometry on your throw out bearing.
Good luck
Russ
