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What is the proper way to check the antenna. I have a VOM and want to make sure I'm nnot trying to measure across a capacitor or something.
I spent a good deal of time under the car making sure the grounding plate was really grounded to the chassis, but if I check the outer sheild of the radio end of the cable to ground, I get nothing. Nothing from the mast itself to the center conductor of the radio end either.
You cannot check the antenna center wire with an Ohm meter on a '67'. Its got some kind of internal capacitance to it. You can check the outer sheild to ground though. Make sure the ground plane is grounded properly to the frame and that the radio is grounded properly also. If in doubt of the antenna cable itself, just replace it, about $28.
Desert Nomad
I think that's the direction I'll be going anyway. Have all new grounding materials at the rear of the car and those grounds check ok to the frame and body, but at the radio end of the cable, there is no ground, so I think there's a break somewhere.
Go to Pep Boys and buy a $7 replacement antenna. Plug it in and see if it makes a difference. If you want to be really sophisticated, buy one with enough cable to use your engine as the ground plane. Cheapest "antenna checker" money can buy.
Both harness wires provide 12 volts when switched on. The coaxial antenna cable gets it's ground from the radio.
I'm confused. What is the problem??
Magic, I'm only referring to the antenna and cable.
But now I'm confused. I was under the impression that the antenna cable shield was grounded at both ends. One end at the radio, and the other end at the antenna ground plane that is grounded to the chassis. I am assuming that with an unbroken cable shield, I should be able to see a ground at either end of the antenna cable shield as long as either end is grounded (that make sense?)
My radio is out being rebuilt, so I was checking the antenna cable to make sure it was OK. I was able to verify that the exposed metal part of the antenna cable that is in contact with the antenna ground plane (and subsequent ground strap) was indeed grounded to the chassis. When I checked the radio end, it appeared as an open at the outer conductor.
I also tried to measure the antenna mast to the center conductor of the antenna cable at the radio end and that also indicated an open.
The antenna ground plane plate is not electrically grounded. It establishes a base plane for the antenna, which (I will guess some Bessel function said it needed) to produce good reception.
As a side note, my asian power antenna works almost as well fully retracted below the plane as it does fully extended.
The antenna ground plane plate is not electrically grounded. It establishes a base plane for the antenna, which (I will guess some Bessel function said it needed) to produce good reception.
As a side note, my asian power antenna works almost as well fully retracted below the plane as it does fully extended.
The ground plane effectively doubles the height of the antenna to improve reception...
The antenna ground plane plate is not electrically grounded. It establishes a base plane for the antenna, which (I will guess some Bessel function said it needed) to produce good reception.
The antenna ground plane plate IS electrically grounded - if it isn't, reception is significantly reduced. A long (19") solid copper ground strap is attached to a tab on the ground plane plate with a screw, and the other end of that copper strap is attached to the frame with a star washer just forward of the driver's side #4 body mount bracket. That ground strap is missing on at least half of the cars I examine - most people don't know it's supposed to be there, and it's frequently omitted when repairing body damage or torn off when the body is lifted and not replaced.
Brand new ground strap was installed during my body drop. I have good continuity from the frame to the outer metal jacket of the antenna cable at the base of the ground plane. No continuity at the radio end. I'm pretty sure the cable is broken somewhere. I'll pull it out tonight.
I doubt it's broken anywhere.... The only way to measure the inner conductor is with as mentioned above a RF generator. If I were you I'd just wait until you get your radio back and plug it in and then continue.... Dave..
Johnz - My car has the strap, but its connected to the antenna motor case, not the ground plate. I believe the 67s were the only year with the strap connected to the ground plate. Only 67 reinforcements have the tab for the bolt. I also believe the 64 that subfixer has does not have it connected to the gound plate (from the factory) either.
PS If it should have been grounded, it took the factory 4 years to correct the problem.
Magic, my 64 does have the ground strap as well as the grounding plate and antenna re-enforcement plate. Also has a metal junction where everything ties together on the body just behind the #4 body mount.
It's shown in a good blow up view in the LICS catalog 23, section 29, 63-64 picture.
Johnz - My car has the strap, but its connected to the antenna motor case, not the ground plate. I believe the 67s were the only year with the strap connected to the ground plate. Only 67 reinforcements have the tab for the bolt.
That's correct - the power antenna cars had the top end of the ground strap screwed to the bracket that attaches the bottom of the motor housing to the splash panel, and the motor housing provided ground continuity to the ground plane plate. I keep forgetting about the power antennas... same principle, though.
Update... Swapped in a new cable (and all the hardware while I was in there) and it checks out fine now. If I use an ohm meter to check the outer conductor to ground, I now get good continuity.
The old cable and antenna mast were so corroded that there was no center conductor at the joint of the mast and cable.
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