How to remove the diff. crossmember bushing?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 7
From: Rio Rancho NM
How to remove the diff. crossmember bushing?
I removed the crossmember from the frame but I have not been able remove the bushing from the crossmember, is there a special way or tool I need? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get it ready for the powder coating shop next week.
Thanks
Chuck
Thanks
Chuck
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,458
Likes: 26
I've "heard" they need to be hydraulically pressed in. So they're probably a PITA to get out. I could be wrong.
I had my crossmember down and chose not to muck with them. The bushings were still ok so I painted (all steps) instead of powdercoated.
I had my crossmember down and chose not to muck with them. The bushings were still ok so I painted (all steps) instead of powdercoated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
This is what it took to get mine out. You can burn it out with a torch, beat it with a big hammer, or if available, use an Arbor or Hydraulic press. After 40 years mine definately needed some heavy persuausion.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
I've restored approx. 20 some mid-years. Everyone I've had the frame and all the suspension pieces powdercoated. I've even had the rear crossmember powdercoated with the bushing in place. Tell the coater not to pre-bake (600-800 deg)the rear crossmember. The bushing will hold up to the 400 deg it takes to melt the powdercoat. I've never lost one yet.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 7
From: Rio Rancho NM
cheesecake,
Thanks for the advice but I wanted to replace them now since I have the car all apart. Initial I will just run the motor with the stock setup(500hp) but will boost it to 750hp. So I want everything up to snuff.
Thanks
Chuck
Thanks for the advice but I wanted to replace them now since I have the car all apart. Initial I will just run the motor with the stock setup(500hp) but will boost it to 750hp. So I want everything up to snuff.
Thanks
Chuck
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POSSE ZR-1 Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,980
Likes: 138
From: Groton CT
I removed mine in my garage with common hand tools.... Hammer and chisel... carefully. Was a real PIA and took a few hours per side. The outer shells of the bushings were "rust-welded" to the crossmember. Not something I'd want to do again. A press would have been nice. New ones went right in.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
chuck,
Just take the crossmember to the powdercoater and let him pre-bake the part with the rest of your pieces. This will burn the crossmember bushing out. Then take a wiz wheel or grinder and cut the tabs that are bent over, ( the ones that hold the bushing in) then take chisel and tap the outer sleeve out. If memory serves me right, it will come out in two pieces. I've done two or three like this. The powdercoater forgot what I said and baked a set by mistake. The new bushing will have to be pressed in, a hammer will not do the job. I bought a 20 ton press from harbor freight 8yr ago for $200 and it does the job.
Just take the crossmember to the powdercoater and let him pre-bake the part with the rest of your pieces. This will burn the crossmember bushing out. Then take a wiz wheel or grinder and cut the tabs that are bent over, ( the ones that hold the bushing in) then take chisel and tap the outer sleeve out. If memory serves me right, it will come out in two pieces. I've done two or three like this. The powdercoater forgot what I said and baked a set by mistake. The new bushing will have to be pressed in, a hammer will not do the job. I bought a 20 ton press from harbor freight 8yr ago for $200 and it does the job.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
From: Rosamond Ca
Originally Posted by cheesecake
chuck,
Just take the crossmember to the powdercoater and let him pre-bake the part with the rest of your pieces. This will burn the crossmember bushing out. Then take a wiz wheel or grinder and cut the tabs that are bent over, ( the ones that hold the bushing in) then take chisel and tap the outer sleeve out. If memory serves me right, it will come out in two pieces. I've done two or three like this. The powdercoater forgot what I said and baked a set by mistake. The new bushing will have to be pressed in, a hammer will not do the job. I bought a 20 ton press from harbor freight 8yr ago for $200 and it does the job.
Just take the crossmember to the powdercoater and let him pre-bake the part with the rest of your pieces. This will burn the crossmember bushing out. Then take a wiz wheel or grinder and cut the tabs that are bent over, ( the ones that hold the bushing in) then take chisel and tap the outer sleeve out. If memory serves me right, it will come out in two pieces. I've done two or three like this. The powdercoater forgot what I said and baked a set by mistake. The new bushing will have to be pressed in, a hammer will not do the job. I bought a 20 ton press from harbor freight 8yr ago for $200 and it does the job.
cheesecake:
I just tried to reinstall my crossmember which is powdercoated and has the new bushings. The bushings slipped in rather easy but I don't recall any bent tabs when I disassembled them. I really don't want to beat on newly coated parts, is that necessary?
My real problem is the bushings holes don't line up anymore with the frame mounts. Ever see that one?
Frapps
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
Yep necessary to secure the bushings into the crossmember. As for them not lining up you may have to take a dremel or such and elongate the holes. The aftermarket bushings sometimes don't line up as nicely as the GM or original crossmember bushings. I found actually that I had to radius the inside of the new bushings that I installed and made sure the sombero's were nice and smooth to facilatate a good smooth engagement. Dave.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
From: Rosamond Ca
Originally Posted by youwish2bme
Yep necessary to secure the bushings into the crossmember. As for them not lining up you may have to take a dremel or such and elongate the holes. The aftermarket bushings sometimes don't line up as nicely as the GM or original crossmember bushings. I found actually that I had to radius the inside of the new bushings that I installed and made sure the sombero's were nice and smooth to facilatate a good smooth engagement. Dave.
I "dremelled" the one hole that was off (driver's side) just a tad and the bolt went right in after that.
I still have a gap between the frame mount and the top of the bushing. Is that normal? I might be able to get a picture if that'll help with the description.
Frapps
Just go here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1552346309
Last edited by Frapps; Oct 9, 2005 at 09:11 AM.
