Trailing arm removal
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,544
Likes: 1,977
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Trailing arm removal
Trailing arm help please. I'm new to the forum, not new to corvettes. I have a 66 Coupe and am having a tough time removing both trailing arms. I have taken the arms out on my 68 with no problem. The bolt on each side is frozen. I have tried a week of blaster and liquid wrench. I have tried the sawsall route. The nuts are off and I have pounded the bolts with a big brass drift. They are not moving. I really don't want to remove the body and drill them out but I'm getting frustrated. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jerry
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,544
Likes: 1,977
From: Temple Terrace Florida
The spring is off as is everything including the bearing assembly. The castle nut(s) are also off. I can't even pull out the shims because in 66, they were not put in with a cotter pin but rather bolted through the pivot bolt.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,187
Likes: 4,008
From: Connecticut, USA
Jerry as you certainly know this is a real PITA job. If the bolts are rust seized tot he inner sleeve,which I believe is the case, you'll have to cut them out. Sawzall and 9" blades or torch. I've used both and you have to be real careful with the torch or you'll have a big blob of melted plastic on the frame. I'd go back to the saw and work it good, try not to cut into the shims if you can, I know it's a lousy job but can be done without removing the body.
Gary
Gary
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,544
Likes: 1,977
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Gary, thanks for the reply. I will go back in and work with the sawsall. I think I should concentrate on keeping the blade of the saw on the rubber of the bushing. I will keep you posted on my progress. Jerry
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Here's a trick. I'm a dentist in my real life. I love to use die grinders.
Take a die grinder with a 1 1/2 to 2 inch cross cut fissured bit. GRIND away the shims from the top, on either side of the bolt. Get the shims out of there.
After the shims are out, I use the die grinder to cut both sides of the bolt.
This is MUCH easier for me. I've never had luck with a Sawzall, but others have.
It is a true PITA job, no matter what. Take your time, wear eye protection. DON'T use a cutting/burning torch. You'll regret it. Chuck
Take a die grinder with a 1 1/2 to 2 inch cross cut fissured bit. GRIND away the shims from the top, on either side of the bolt. Get the shims out of there.
After the shims are out, I use the die grinder to cut both sides of the bolt.
This is MUCH easier for me. I've never had luck with a Sawzall, but others have.
It is a true PITA job, no matter what. Take your time, wear eye protection. DON'T use a cutting/burning torch. You'll regret it. Chuck
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
Gary, thanks for the reply. I will go back in and work with the sawsall. I think I should concentrate on keeping the blade of the saw on the rubber of the bushing. I will keep you posted on my progress. Jerry
NO, NO.
Cut the steel. See my above post. Chuck
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 374
Likes: 2
T-Arm Removal
It's been a few years since I did any t-arm removal. The last few were done with a sawzall. Torches scare me around fiberglas.
You might want to pick up some extra blades because if it's becomes necessary to cut into the shim packs on each or both sides you'll break a few getting the job done.
When it comes time to assemble the T-arms onto the chassis you might consider using some anti-seize on the pivot bolt. Good Luck!
You might want to pick up some extra blades because if it's becomes necessary to cut into the shim packs on each or both sides you'll break a few getting the job done.
When it comes time to assemble the T-arms onto the chassis you might consider using some anti-seize on the pivot bolt. Good Luck!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,544
Likes: 1,977
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Thank you everyone. Got one side off and halfway through the other side. I am surprised all of you on the east coast did not hear the awful noise emanating from my garage. I'm not talking about the cursing. I used a sawsall with a Torch blade. In fact I used about 8 blades. I ended up cutting through the rubber bushing, the sleeve and the bolt. I finished the job with an air chisel. I can't wait to do the body mounts. Jerry
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 7
From: Rio Rancho NM
Listening to the problems most of you have, I sure feel luck. Mine had been sitting for 12 years before I bought it and all my body mounts came out with no problem, trailing arms came out, without even spraying breakfree on them. Must be the luck of the dry air in New Mexico. I sure feel for you guys and I am counting my blessings. 
