tuxedo

I'm a knife switch guy.

327Heaven

Yeah, thats probably whats been happening to me. I'm on my second green **** setup and it still happens. My problem is if I remove the **** completely I have one heck of a time screwing it back in. Somehow the middle section (teflon?) moves and the holes don't line up. Also the green **** has to be tight. Mine will loosen slightly from all the shaking and rumbling of the LT-1 cam

simard

Why by a switch at all with a top post battery? On my 60 I just wring the battery cable on the negative post. Always makes a good electrical connection. When I want to disconnect the battery, I just twist the cable end off and place it on the battery holddown bolt. Quick, handy, effective, and CHEAP. Rare in the Corvette world.

Skunkvette

I've always had problems with the **** types (loose connections) and have gone to just removing the cable from the battery, which can be a minor PITA. Need to try a knife type.

michaeliss

I had the knife type on my occasional driver. Side post battery. After a long drive time I would hit the brakes and the whole electrical system would dim (headlights, dash etc.). I went crazy checking for a short in the brakes. I noticed that the blade shut off was hot after one of these long drives. I removed the switch and no more problems.

my58

I have installed many latching style relays for Remote Master Disconnects. They are efficient convenient and you only need to run small 18 gauge wire with any little fancy switch into the cars interior. They are available at any RV store and have been in use for years. Here are two examples. The first is an RV do it yourself low cost method. The second site is a Hot Rod product complete kit from Painless performance products. If you need any help understanding the hook up just let me know. Both companies below will fax you really nice wiring instruction if you ask.

http://www.ecovantageenergy.com/cata...s/item1251.htm

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog.asp

specifically 30206

DansYellow66

Yes, that's what I mean. Usually just loosening it and retightening it will allow the car to start. I've been meaning to dip it in some baking soda and water to see if it has a little corrosion in there but haven't gotten around to it. I don't think it's something that would strand you -- just annoying more than anything.

StrayDog

Reply from the Dog in my case YES, I had same situation as Dansyellow66, on more than one ocasion.....

rgs

In SCCA racing we require battery cutoff switches. One of the approved switchs mounts in a panel and protrudes through with a removable key. It can be hidden in any protected place and the key takes only a moment to turn off/on or remove/insert.

kenmo

I'm on my second green ****... The first one failed while my car was idling in the driveway... I guess these things should be replaced every 2 or 3 years...

I like the idea of taking the green **** out and putting it in your pocket, but they are darn hard to put back in....

327Heaven

Dang #^*+ing holes never line up!!!!

Ron Miller

Well, I've got two green ***** ordered, don't figure one will be too much trouble on the '65 since it's driven so infrequently. But, on the '66, my "daily driver", it may be another story. If it's too much of a PITA, I guess I'll have to go to a knife switch, or maybe as someone else has suggested, a cutoff mounted with a switch or lever thru the firewall. Time will tell, I'll let you know my experiences as they play out . . . .

Thanks for all the input, guys!!!

Hitch

I've been using the green knobber type for the last couple of years. The only problem that I've had is that on my first one that after I removed it and re-installed it numerous times it failed. I thought about the choice between the **** and the lever type and really it just boiled down to I didn't like the look of the lever type in the engine bay. I bought another knobber type for a whole 10 bucks and became less paranoid and just loosen it a little when I go to a cruize in, car show or in the garage. I've come to think of it as that I'm not worried about it getting stolen, only that I would hate to lose my car due to an electrical fire. I've come to understand as much as I enjoy my car if someone wants it they will take it. Whether that's at the movies, dinner, out of town or in my garage. Shoot my dad doesn't even lock the doors on his 66 for the fact that he says is that if somone takes it and I get it back I'd hate for them to have broken a window or messed something up.. Now I can't go that far.. I've joked with him and said "Why not just leave the keys in the car and be done with it " However I CAN understand his mentality as everyone else's to say removing the **** is a cheap security blanket...


We've had these discussions before over securing a car and as most know these cars can easily be started or roll backed to make them disappear.. No matter what you do someone can hot wire these cars with minimal amount of time or just put it on a rollback as quick.. JMO...

Now with saying that I'm just as worried as the rest of you when I leave my car unattended.. I went to the Myrtle Beach show with two of my good friends and our spouses and I got up a few times over the weekend while we were at the hotel to go check on our cars... Dave..