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When I start the car it cranks over fine but it doesn't try to fire until I actually release the key from the start position...It always starts, but if I just conitnue to hold in the start position it will crank but won't start.
It's a unrestored 66 with the original transistor ignition and otherwise all original wiring, starter and ignition switch. Any thoughts gang?
I think the pink wire from the starter solenoid to the coil is broken, or the solenoid is not supplying 12volts to it. The wire supplies the 12volt bypass to the coil. When you release the key, the coil gets 8volt power through the ballast resistor on the bulkhead above the LH valve cover.
When I start the car it cranks over fine but it doesn't try to fire until I actually release the key from the start position...It always starts, but if I just conitnue to hold in the start position it will crank but won't start.
It's a unrestored 66 with the original transistor ignition and otherwise all original wiring, starter and ignition switch. Any thoughts gang?
This is usually a problem when one changes out the T.I. circuit in the box with the solid state system. I had this problem and didn't have the patients to deal with it and sent it back. Ralph, a friend of mine had the same problem and called the company and his fires up correctly now. I bet you have the replacement circuit in the front box, you wouldn't be able to know unless you took it apart and saw the black solid state circuitry. If you e-mailed Ralph he could walk you through it to make it work correctly, he is a great guy with tons of vette knowledge and probably wouldn't mind an extra e-mail on this. his e-mail is Rponfick@aol.com . He has forgotten more about vettes than I will ever know. I bet he can clear up your problem
There is a wire from the small outermost terminal on the starter to the + side of the coil on all non transistor ignition cars. It is off or the starter solinoid is bad. That is the bypass circuit. This applies full 12V to the coil when cranking. It should fire when the solinoid is engaged.
This is usually a problem when one changes out the T.I. circuit in the box with the solid state system. I had this problem and didn't have the patients to deal with it and sent it back. Ralph, a friend of mine had the same problem and called the company and his fires up correctly now. I bet you have the replacement circuit in the front box, you wouldn't be able to know unless you took it apart and saw the black solid state circuitry. If you e-mailed Ralph he could walk you through it to make it work correctly, he is a great guy with tons of vette knowledge and probably wouldn't mind an extra e-mail on this. his e-mail is Rponfick@aol.com . He has forgotten more about vettes than I will ever know. I bet he can clear up your problem
Thanks for the info. but I'm postive nothing has ever been changed on this car.
Went through a similar situation a while back,ordered a reconditioned
origional circuit board from Dave Fiedler at T.I. Specialty.Opening and
switching the parts in the T.I. Amplifier is very easy.By the way Dave
is a great guy to deal with.
Is there something different about an ignition switch that is for a TI system?
I know on regular paints, you have the balalst,and the solenoid powers the coil while in crank mode bypassing the ballast resistor, and then run position directs the coil current thru the ballast.
Is a TI ignition switch different somehow in that the starter solenoid does not supply power to the coil in crank mode? And if so, why?
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