Well,

All you guys who added aftermarket air and contributed to this topic earlier this year are going to have 1 more added to your installed ranks!

Yup, bit the bullet yesterday and with all the help from the archived threads on this subject, I've ordered the Classic Auto Air "Perfect Fit..HAHA" unit. Have ordered all the parts that Paul (Subfixer) provided in his insight/install (including the movement of the alternator to the driver's side) and am taking into consideration Stepinwolf's pics as well as the e-mail w/pics from Realtor-Bob and Vetzs.

'Bout the only part from the "bill of materials" discussed I have not addressed in this AC add on is the upgrade to my 37 amp alternator. Thinking I'm going to use my original and just have the guts updated locally. Not sure just how big of an amp increase I will need. Seems 65 amps or more should be adequate. Maybe should go to 100 amp to be safe?

Will keep you guys apprised of this endeavor (probably not going to start this 'till after Christmas...yeh right). What with my tackling the reskinning of my dash pads this '5 is going to be way all apart!!

Here's just a cursory list of you folks who contributed towards, hopefully, a DIY's dream install

Subfixer
BarryK
65RDSTR
joec
mgsouthard
NINENINEVETT
Realtor-Bob
67-427ci
Kellsdad
65air_coupe
Stepinwolf
vetzs
63vette
1963SplitWindow
sting ry
ctjackster
Kensmith
JohnZ

Stay Tuned!!

Jim

 

hey, don't put me on your list of people to blame!


good luck and let us all know how the install goes and any problems, issues, whatever........
IF, and unfortunately it's a big If, the budget allows me to do my AC install also this winter I'm going to use the Classic Auto Air system also so I'll be following your project install threads closely.

of course, I still need to get my car back together first and running again from my current project before I can consider the next project to tear it apart!

what motor do you have, i forget. Do you need to change out your pulleys also like i will on my L76?

let us know any tips you find to maybe make it a bit easier for those of us follwing you.

 

you certainly have the talent - skills to handle it and attend to any on-the-fly fab work, plus you have the all important "advice from those who have gone before yee" with the same system. Barring any unforseen parts not being on hand, I would easily bet you would be able to wrap it up in a sngle weekend. As you know, I only took off an aftermarket A/C system (VA) and while it did not seem too complex in terms of mechanical knowledge, there was "alot going on" as you have a bunch of sub-systems you are dealing with - you are working on several different locations as well (behind/under the dash, both sides of the engine, and both sides of the rad.) It literally took me a day to take everything off and put the oem stuff back on. Course I was working blind, as I did not install the VA system.

Are you doing a supplemental elec fan (I don't know if the CA system automatically includes one)?

I would also say It might be a good time to put a brandy new Optima in there, you ain't gonna have easy access to the battery again any time soon.

 

BarryK,

My '5 is a manual steering/manual brake base car. I'm hoping the pulley setup I have (originally a 327/300, converted to a 365 [L76] look alike) will work Ok. The waterpump and crank as well as alternator are already deep groovers. We'll see as I get things started to align up if I'll have issues there. Paul (Subfixer) did say I'll "lose" the idler pulley in this add on. I will take before, during and after pics of this effort.

Hey jackster,

You're too generous commenting about my knowledge base. Believe me, this forum is my "safety net" of "What do I do now?"
The CA system does come with 2 fans as part of its kit. I know there was a thread in the archives about when the fan setup kicks on (think the ideal would be to tie it to the temp sender in the intake manifold). Will have to do some reading on that again.

Funny you should comment about a battery. My Sears alarm battery took a dive about 3 weeks ago (had it in the car, trouble free for 6 years). Got a Diehard in there now so she's fresh. As I get into the hose routing, I'm hoping to allow myself enough space to retrieve the battery, if needed. We'll see.

Onward to wrenchin'!

Jim

 

Jim

if this helps you, since you say yours is configured like a L76, same as Paul's (Subfixer) and mine is an L76, I have a lot of notes Paul sent me so I can order up all the proper parts.

Yes, you will lose the idler pulley ( never figured out what it was there for anyway).
I have on my "order list" a new waterpump and alternator pulley among other things but not sure what makes the waterpump pulley different than the one I have since I don't have PS or PB.
If you are innterested, PM me or email me and I'll give you the complete list of items that I got from Paul.

also, it was recommended that I pick up a throttle solenoid. You may or may not need it depending on whether or not you changed your cam out to the 30-30 cam when you made your motor like an L76. A proper L76 with the 30-30 cam NEEDS to have a fairly high idle speed - around 850-900 - or she won't stay running. When the AC compressor kicks on it's going to drop the idle down from the additional load so the throttle solenoid will kick the idle back up when it senses the AC compressor turn on.

 

BarryK,

Got that very list from Paul just after he completed his install and gave everyone his blow by blow version. Think we went to different schools together You're right on that throttle solenoid. You're right about that idle drop when the compressor kicks in. Think there is an archived thread from someone on the C3 forum that addressed this. That and the alternator upgrade are on my to do's list.

Thanks for the offer on the list!

Regards,

Jim

 

I've got the idle solenoid on mine as well. The idle speed drops roughly 150 rpm with the compressor on.

I'll try to come up with the part numbers and pics of how I did it later today. Just got a new camera, so this will be a test.

 

The purpose of the idler pulley is to offset the pressure on the water pump from the alternator belt.

The SHP cars (because of higher rpm) required deeper pulleys to keep from throwing belts and they also had tighter belts for the same reason. The idler was meant to save water pumps and make them last longer and the car more reliable as well.

An added benefit was if one did lose a generator belt, the water pump would still be operable and the car wouldn't overheat.

Of course people threw the idlers away and suffered water pump failures because of it. (that's why there's so few original SHP water pumps around)

 

thanks seaside, what's scary is that I understood that explanaton.
I guess that's why I still have my original waterpump than - the idler pulley is still on my car.

 

When I did my Classic Auto Air installation this summer (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...um_id=4&arch=1) I installed 105 amp diodes & stator in my 37amp alternator. It was an easy inexpensive upgrade that worked. What I did not like is that my car discharged heavily at idle with the A/C on. As soon as it went off idle the charge was normal. I read in another post about upgrading the alternator to a later model AC/Delco 12SI (95 amp) with an internal regulator. I installed the new alternator with a lectric limited conversion kit ($15.00). The results are great! No more dimming of the lights at an idle (or when stepping on the brakes). Since my car is not correct, I did not mind doing it. I also wired the fans to engage when the A/C switch is turned on and not to cycle on/off with the compressor. Good luck with your A/C installation. You are going to like it in the hot weather.
Roy

 

if anyone is concerned about adding additional loads on the cars electrial system, upgrading the alternator, dim headlights, etc this is an excellent place to read all about your electrial system to make upgrades
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

 

67-427ci,

Thanks for the headsup on the alternator upgrade. I've already placed an order to LetricLimited for the harness allowing me to hook up the alternator on the driver's side from the pass side. If I go the route you described, your saying the kit from LectricLimited adapts your harness to the internal regulator setup?

Hey Subfixer,

Hope you're succesfule in your picture taking of your solenoid setup. Lookin' forward to it. Thanks!

I've really approached this add on from the standpoint of longer trips in reasonable comfort. Definitely was a good idea when selling the cost of this add on to my wife. Now, how can I convince my wife that those side pipes are truly music (I've already got a set of earplugs in the glove box when we do trip. ) Thanks again

Jim

 

Jim

just tell her to talk to my wife. The side pipes on my car don't bother her at all. In fact, last year she drove in the vette with me to Carlisle and back and both times she even managed to fall asleep in the car regardless of the volume of the pipes.
after two hours in the car with the pipes screaming my ears are ringing but it doesn't seem to bother her.

The only reason she wasn't in the car for the drive this year to Carlise is because she drove her own car so we had it to go back and forth to the hotel as I left my car on the field.

 

Hi Jim:
It is a very simple two part kit. One plug that replaces the old regulator and a plug to convert the old square alternater plug to the newer flat type. The Lectric Limited part number is VAK6368SI ($15.00). I purchased the alternator at Advance Auto Parts #321269 $124.88, Lifetime Warranty. This is one of the easiest upgrades I have done to my '67 Coupe and best of all it does not discharge at an idle with the A/C on. Another plus is my system voltage in now a steady 14.6 volts instead of 13.2. My halogen headlights are MUCH brighter. My wife is more comfortable at highway speeds with the windows up and A/C on (less noise).
Roy

 

OK, time flys when your busy, but here are the photos of the idle solenoid installation on a stock holley 2818 in my 64 327/365.

The bracket is a Holley 20-9. Ordered from Jegs.
The solenoid is a Wells #E413. Comes with the locknut. Got it at Autozone.

This shot attempts to show the overall arrangement.



This shot attempts to show the mounting screws that go into the throttle plate. The rear hole is already threaded in the stock 2818, the forward hole is not. I used a sheet metal screw in the forward hole.



This shot shows the mod to the throttle return spring. The original location runs right into the solenoid. I moved the bracket to the middle 2 bolts on the intake manifold, and the other end of the springs (I use 2 for personal safety reasons) go to the throttle lever on the firewall. (Yes, the cable attached to the throttle lever is cruise control, and I know about the slight carb leak)



The solenoid is connected to the compressor clutch wire, so it's only on when the compressor is running.

Hope this helps some of you guys.

Edit...Sorry about the large pics, but some detail was lost when I went too small. These are about 30% original size.