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Checking Float Level In Carter

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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:54 PM
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Default Checking Float Level In Carter

Is there an easy way to check the float level in the carter carb? Car runs great once it's running but if it sets for a week, have to use starter fluid or dump gas down it to get it going. Acts like it doesn't have any fuel in the carb bowls. Thanks and a happy Holiday season to all
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 01:25 AM
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The only 'easy' way to do it is to remove the top bowl cover assembly. With the assembly inverted you can check both float drop and float level. The CSM shows; with top cover inverted and gasket installed:
............float drop: 3/4 inch........float level: 5/16 inch.

It doesn't sound right that the fuel bowls would go empty after only week's time unless there is an internal leak of some sort. Ball check valve?. .
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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I had a Carter on my 61 and had difficulty starting it after sitting for prolonged periods. It was the Accelerator pump on the carb causing the problem.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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capevettes, whenever I set the floats on a Carter AFB or Edelbrock, I set the floats parallel to the inverted top of the carb and then set the float drop to 3/4-inch with the housing right-side up. This seems to work fine with no lean issues or excessive gas loading up.

As far as the gas draining out, I started up my 62 yesterday to take her out for a spin, and it took 4 extended tries on the starter to get enough fuel in the carb to get her started. I think the gas tank develops a slight vacuum over idle time that sucks the fuel back thru the line from the carb. Good luck.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Coves4me
As far as the gas draining out, I started up my 62 yesterday to take her out for a spin, and it took 4 extended tries on the starter to get enough fuel in the carb to get her started. I think the gas tank develops a slight vacuum over idle time that sucks the fuel back thru the line from the carb. Good luck.
You might want to check your tank vent line and hose that ends up in the fuel filler cavity - if it's plugged, the tank has no vent to atmosphere (assuming you're using a correct non-vented cap).
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo64
Car runs great once it's running but if it sets for a week, have to use starter fluid or dump gas down it to get it going. Acts like it doesn't have any fuel in the carb bowls.

That's exactly what's happening. My car does that too. There's been lots of threads on this and other bulletin boards on this subject. This condition happens to many people. Can't be fixed. Some suspect modern gasoline formulations.

Either strain your battery and starter by overcranking. (That's what I do.) Or, get a hypodermic type needle and inject gasoline in the brass vent tubes on top of the carb. All 4 of them go right to the carb fuel bowl. Don't use starting fluid on a regular basis. It's ether, and it causes wear on start up because it washes lubricant off cylinder walls.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by chris ritchie
That's exactly what's happening. My car does that too. There's been lots of threads on this and other bulletin boards on this subject. This condition happens to many people. Can't be fixed. Some suspect modern gasoline formulations.

Either strain your battery and starter by overcranking. (That's what I do.) Or, get a hypodermic type needle and inject gasoline in the brass vent tubes on top of the carb. All 4 of them go right to the carb fuel bowl. Don't use starting fluid on a regular basis. It's ether, and it causes wear on start up because it washes lubricant off cylinder walls.
make sure the choke plate closes tight or fuel will not be pushed from the float bowls into the boosters.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 08:59 AM
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Guys, thanks for all of the helpful hints. Need to do some checking.
It's always acted this way and the fellow I bought it from years ago told me he always dumped a little gas down it to start it after it had set for a few days.. Seems to me this is kinda a fire hazard and momma's not big on me burning down the garage and house.
again thanks Merry Christmas season to you all
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo64
Guys, thanks for all of the helpful hints. Need to do some checking.
It's always acted this way and the fellow I bought it from years ago told me he always dumped a little gas down it to start it after it had set for a few days.. Seems to me this is kinda a fire hazard and momma's not big on me burning down the garage and house.
again thanks Merry Christmas season to you all
if you engine has a aluminum intake manifold blocking the heat riser crossovers will help reduce the heat to the carb and help prevent the boiling of the gas causing it to vaporize in the float bowls causing hard starting
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo64
... dumped a little gas down it to start it after it had set for a few days.. Seems to me this is kinda a fire hazard and momma's not big on me burning down the garage and house.
She's right. Betcha you got some nice backfires out the carb from that trick. Shot right up to the ceiling, right? Scared the crap out of you, huh? Another nice trick is to do this while somebody else tries to start the car and you hover over the carb. Singe your eyebrows right off. Makes a fashion statement later.

If you're going to go to the trouble of opening the hood, and removing the air cleaner, inject gasoline down the vent tubes. Then you can pump the pedal which'll activate the accelerator pump which'll squirt a measured amount of raw gas into the manifold. Replace the air cleaner before you start the car. Much safer. You can buy a big hypodermic type needle at cooking stores. Those needles are used to inject marinade into meat.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:37 PM
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Hey Chris, How much gas do you put in that marinade needle-[fill it up?] before you pump it down the tubes. thanks for the help and possibly saving my marriage. [ and eyebrows] Have a happy holiday season and a great new year.
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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I fill the needle from a gas can I keep in the garage for the lawn mower. I believe I use about 3 shots, and I think each shot is around 50cc. That's plenty of gas to get the car started, and once it starts, the fuel pump will catch up pretty quick.

Usual start routine. Pump the pedal twice. That'll put some gas in the intake and set the choke. Turn the key. It'll usually catch right away. Sometimes it'll catch and stall. Then I just repeat the process.

You can also just crank on the starter. Usually about 20-30 seconds of cranking will pump enough gas in the carburetor bowl to allow me to follow the above procedure. I know it's not good for the starter, and it stresses the battery. But I replace the battery as a preventative maintenance item every 4 years, and the starter's wrong. I'm looking for a reason to replace it. Laziness has nothing to do with this procedure, nosiree.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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found a stainless steel turkey type baster with a needle type injector which will allow gas to be injected into the carb float bowl
through the vents and i does hold quite a bit. [similiar to the ones with the rubber bulb on the end. Only ques I have now is could the rubber on the bulb deteriote and give me prob in the carb with minute pieces of rubber. Anyone been here.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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I love all you guys and your kitchen utensils.

I finally gave in and put an electric pump on my 66 (like the newer cars have) and sure enough - it starts like my newer cars.

I also believe the current fuel formulation and lack of vapor capture equipment cause the vapor in the garage after hot shutdown, and the boil out that the vapor implies means the carb is empty. The Purolator low pressure pump is one of the best mods I made to the car, and it also does in vapor lock problems.
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