Grey Ghost

This is my sequence of removing the dash harness. Please reply, if you know a better sequence or anything that I omitted. I'm trying it from memory. Also, if you have pictures or diagrams would be of great help. A list of tools ? Took me about 2-3 hours for removal.

My car is a 1965, Convertible, 4-speed, without backup lights, air or emergency flasher options. Mine is missing the glove compartment light.

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Remove steering assembly: Make sure your wheels are straight. Scribe a reference mark across the steering shaft and steering box. I removed the 12 point bolt at the steering box. I scribed another line on the steering mast where the clamp is located and removed the bolt that holds the clamp and spring to the lower steering bearing. From inside the car, I then unplugged the horn and blinker harness from the main harness. I removed the trip odometer bracket and steering mast support brackets from under the dash. This allowed me to carefully pull the steering wheel and mast out as a unit. Someone will have to watch for the lower spring and clamp as you pull the assembly out. Or, just pull far enough that you can slide the spring and clamp off the mast. Then pull the unit out of the car.

3. I removed the console, radio panels, radio, clock, speaker and speaker grill. I also unhooked the fan motor switch at this time.

4. I disconnected the passenger side door jamb switch for the interior courtesy lights. Unscrew the nut that holds the unit in place and pull the wire that slides into the switch. This will have to be repeated for the drivers side.

5. I removed the courtesy light socket for the passenger side. Squeeze the tongs on the socket and slide up through the holder. Repeat for drivers side.

6. Remove fan switch wiring connector from the back of the heater box.

7. I disconnected the tach drive cable at the distributor.

8. I disconnected the oil pipe fitting at the manifold. Be careful, it is made of brass and the nut can be easily rounded off.

9. I disconnected the 2 wiring connectors at the windshield wiper motor.

10. I disconnected the black wire going to the ballast resistor.

11. I disconnected the two plugs on the engine side to the fuse panel.

12. I then disconnected the oil pipe fitting at the back of the oil pressure gauge. Be careful, the nut can be easily rounded off and it is a proprietary fitting.

13. I removed the vent cables and headlight switch attached to the cluster.

14. I removed two of the lower screws that hold the cluster to the console. I found 5" long bolts at Home Depot that will support the weight of the cluster instead of threaded rod. I screwed these in and removed the other cluster screws.

15. I pulled the cluster forward a few inches and disconnected the cluster ground wire from the top of the cluster above the tach.

16. Lying on my back, I could unscrew the tach and speedo cables. Pull the bulbs and instrument connectors going into the cluster and mark each with masking tape and a description. You will also need to remove your ignition switch. I found it easier than accessing them from the top. But, some can be removed from the top side without lying on your back.

17. With everything unhooked from the cluster. I removed the two long bolts and slid the cluster out onto my knees. It is a little heavy, be prepared.

18. I disconnected the dash harness from the rear harness clip.

19. I disconnected the emergency brake indicator wire from the switch. It is similar to the door jamb switches and is a brown wire at the end of the brake handle.

20. I disconnected the headlight dimmer switch connector at the floorboard.

21. I removed the two screws holding the fuse panel to the body.

22. I removed the firewall grommet that the windshield wiper wires feed through. Then pulled the wires inside.

23. The harness should be ready to come out. Carefully note or photograph how it is routed.

sjaroslo

THAT was a very cool, and hopefully very thorough, dissertation! Thank you for taking the time to document.