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I have had good luck with Luk and with Centerforce. Probably would go with Centerforce.....
I have a Centerforce One in my '67, never had any problems with it. Also, they are not cheap, but I think the design is cutting edge. As far as Luk goes, I never could find a website for them, who makes them; are they new or rebuilt? PT
I have a Centerforce One in my '67, never had any problems with it. Also, they are not cheap, but I think the design is cutting edge. As far as Luk goes, I never could find a website for them, who makes them; are they new or rebuilt? PT
Got a question for you. When I originally rebuilt my 427 back in 1980 I used the original flywheel and bolts after replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. The trans had been damaged prior to my purchase of the vehicle so I assume that someone else had made some changes in the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing prior to my replacement of these items. I decided this last year to replace the clutch, pressure plate and bearing again. I also decided to replace the flywheel bolts. The units I purchased did not have any type of lock washers, my originals did not have any either. I put the items in and everything seemed fine on initial start up. However, since that time the clutch will make some noise when I start to release the pedal, but only in reverse. The flywheel was resurfaced and I washed it with soap and water. The clutch disk was clean and the pressure plate was also washed. Any idea what might cause this? Also, do you know, did the orginal 390 hp come with some type of retainer washer for the flywheel bolts from the factory? I would sure as hell hate for the flywheel to come out of the car at RPM. Thanks.
I've gained some experience with clutch and flywheel replacement working on my SS396 Chevelle. After some trial and error - mostly error until I learned enough about this - it now has a new CenterForce DF clutch and pressure plate.
While I was at it, although the old flywheel looked good, I replaced the flywheel with a new CenterForce unit. Bolts used are ARP. I have confidence in this set up, and it works very well.
Apply thread locker (blue should do) to the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. And torque carefully. While you are in there, you might want to replace the pilot bushing on the end of the crank.
You would have to change your flywheel to 14" (and bell and starter nose), but the Chev dual disc clutch used on the '71 454 will never wear out. It is not the best for drag racing, though. If your BB is not a 454, then get a non-counterweighted 14" flywheel
Other than that, the 10.5" ZL-1 rag and pressure plate is unbeatable.
My hard won experience is that GM parts generally offer you better quality than aftermarket, often at a lesser price.
JohnZ
Also, do you know, did the orginal 390 hp come with some type of retainer washer for the flywheel bolts from the factory? I would sure as hell hate for the flywheel to come out of the car at RPM. Thanks.
As I recall, the original GM flywheel bolts had a captured star-type lock washer under the heads. I always replace them with ARP flywheel bolts, and they don't use any kind of lock washer. If the bolts you used were made specifically for the flywheel application (precision unthreaded shank area below the bolt head) and they were properly torqued, I wouldn't be concerned about it.
The ones I purchased were specifically for this application. They did not come with any type of washer so I assumed that they were correct with the original application. Since I know I torqued them to spec's I have to believe that something is amiss in the clutch/pressure plate area. May have to pull apart again. Thanks for the help.