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Hello,
Plan on installing the 327 into the 65 soon. Any rules of thumb with regards to the ignition sheilding. Are any of the shielding pieces impossible to install after the engine is in place. I would just as soon have none of it on unless it's a hassle afterword. any other tips would be great, it's been a while. Trying to think ahead as much as possible.
Did he make it out alive? My father had visions of me making him crawl in there too and bought me an engine leveler for my hoist for x-mas, I'm fortunate to have a great family. I noticed in the picture the exhaust maifolds are on the engine, worked out o.k.?
Heh, yeah, Dad made it out okay. Once we got the engine down, I was the one to crawl under and bolt everything down. Take care to make sure that the rear of the transmission is down far enough to keep from ripping the heat shielding on the tunnel...and that is why I have to replace the heat shielding on the transmission tunnel.
Exhaust manifolds were on and I don't recall a problem with getting the engine in or bolted down. Good luck!
Good call chop, now that you mention it there is a ton of room in there with the support out. Took it out the other day at the body shop. Thanks Tossin. Keep'm coming guy's!
Tossin: Looks like you are very daring. I see weight wasn't a problem with your 4 point hookup.
I'm ready to give it a go with a load leveler and have a question about where you hooked up the 4 chains. Looks like you used the outside holes on the heads that the intake manifold bolts to with the intake removed?
Do I have that right? Special thanks for a reply -- Rollin
hoist on side of the car, with the wheel off, is preffered method of some (JohnZ one, I think)
no piece of ign shileding is impossible to install once engine is in (agree the "V" pieces underneath are esp tough) - the real question is the brackets that the shielding attaches to, esp near the firewall (even the ones by some of the sprk plugs are out of you line of sight and tricky). None is impossible, but having them on beforehand would make life easier . . .
I went with fuel pump on, exhaust manifolds off. When I removed the engine, I had the exhaust manifolds on and the studs scratched up the paint my frame pretty good. I shiver at the thought of installing a fuel pump with the engine in the car. It was hard enought to connect the fuel line!
Brian
I shiver at the thought of installing a fuel pump with the engine in the car. It was hard enought to connect the fuel line!
Brian
Have done that (swapped out a fuel pump on my 65) and it kinda sucked, but taking the right front wheel off gives you the necessary socket wrench (using a few extensions) access, plus the longer bolt in the mysterious bolt in the front of the block trick, I'd have to rank it below instrument cluster removal and reinstall in terms of PITA . . . I'd leave the fuel pump off too if I was doing the engine install thing .
Something to put in your memory banks. I just finished installing a new ZZ4 in my C2. I noticed that the "mysterious hole" in the front of the block does not go all the way through to the pump rod. It will make any future fuel pump changes a bigger PITA. I assume all of the new crate motor blocks are the same.
I'd install all of the shielding pieces with the exception of the main distributor cover first before installing.
When i did my engine clean up project earlier this winter I removed all the shielding pieces and than had to put them all back on again with the motor in the car and it's a real PITA! It would be much easier to do it while you have the motor out and on a stand.
It's obviously very possible to do it with the motor in the car but why make life more difficult if you have the choice?