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I have a 58 with a 283 ci. engine with a 3 spd. tranny. The car is a March/ April 58 build based on the J58S106... serial #. It is very difficult to read the numbers on this motor but from what I can make out, it looks like:
3756519 - Rear Drivers side
TII14D - Front pad Passenger side
2058 - Rear Passenger side
3844457 - Intake manifold
The car had a significant smoke problem and some friend put new valve guide seals (look like black rubber caps) in. It has made a significant improvement but there is still some smoke on the drivers side. Otherwise it runs great. I believe it was rebuilt in '84 by previous owner but I am not sure. I also don't know how many miles are on the rebuild. I would like to pull and rebuild or replace this engine. The questions that I have are:
Is this engine correct or not?
If it is not correct, does it pay to rebuild it or just replace with another engine (perhaps a crate engine)?
What, where and how is the best way to obtain an engine?
The C1 has front motor mounts only. Is there a special requirement as far as engine mounts go that I would need or would any Small block 283, 327, 350 engine fit without modification?
What is the largest type engine that would in this car without modification?
I have used this forum before and have received invaluable guidance.
Thanks in advance
Vinny V
Staten Island, NY
'59 block, '64 intake, heads unknown. So, no "classic matching numbers" value in your engine. Look for a matching numbers block and heads, buy them and put them in a bag. Put in a GM 350 or 383 crate motor and you will have a very fun car. Collect the parts to rebuild your matching numbers engine and when it is done, bag it 'till you sell the car. Keep the crate motor in the car and drive the hell out of it.
'59 block, '64 intake, heads unknown. So, no "classic matching numbers" value in your engine. Look for a matching numbers block and heads, buy them and put them in a bag. Put in a GM 350 or 383 crate motor and you will have a very fun car. Collect the parts to rebuild your matching numbers engine and when it is done, bag it 'till you sell the car. Keep the crate motor in the car and drive the hell out of it.
That is part of what makes corvettes fun.
Time out... this answer is incorrect. Block number 3756519 is used in late '58 motors and 1959s. This is supported by the Black Book and the NCRS manual. Do not give up on that engine just yet.
You might look at that pad again and verify... is there more to the suffix?
According to [/I]Corvette by the Numbers[I] that engine block may have seen some usage in late 1958.
But the same source says no Tonawanda built engines (indicated by the T in the sequence on your front pad) went into 1958 Corvettes. All '57 to '64 Corvettes used engines from the Flint (F) plant. If you copied the numbers correctly, this is not a Corvette engine.
The VIN would tell when the car was built. The date code on the back of the block would indicate when the block was cast. That code should be a letter and a few numbers. I don't think you posted that correctly.
If the block casting date is later than the car build date, you can't even make the block appear original. If the casting date is before the vehicle production date, then you could remove the numbers from the front pad by decking the block and "pretend" that the engine is correct for the car.
Arn't there 3 numbers on a 58 corvette motor. Casting #, Serial # and the date Code? I have one also and need to find out more about the motor.
Thanks George
According to [/I]Corvette by the Numbers[I] that engine block may have seen some usage in late 1958.
But the same source says no Tonawanda built engines (indicated by the T in the sequence on your front pad) went into 1958 Corvettes. All '57 to '64 Corvettes used engines from the Flint (F) plant. If you copied the numbers correctly, this is not a Corvette engine.
The VIN would tell when the car was built. The date code on the back of the block would indicate when the block was cast. That code should be a letter and a few numbers. I don't think you posted that correctly.
If the block casting date is later than the car build date, you can't even make the block appear original. If the casting date is before the vehicle production date, then you could remove the numbers from the front pad by decking the block and "pretend" that the engine is correct for the car.
I agree that everything I have read is that only blocks for these years were cast in Flint. However I was wondering how they kept track? Are there any other differences other the the F or T on the front pad and did they stamp the F or T when they left the casting plant or was this done at assembly?
I will have to take another look at the # behind the head on the passenger side. In the event that this is NOT a Corvette motor, one recomemmendation was to replace this with a 350 or 383 Chevy engine. Does any 350 or 383 fir in this car considering the way a C1 engine is mounted? It only has 2 mounts in the front, each at the end of the cross bracket. Also... does anyone know of a good source for an engine like this?
Thanks again,
Vinny
I agree that everything I have read is that only blocks for these years were cast in Flint. However I was wondering how they kept track? Are there any other differences other the the F or T on the front pad and did they stamp the F or T when they left the casting plant or was this done at assembly?
Flint V-8 Engine (and the Saginaw Foundry) were the sole source of Corvette SB engines; the machine code (Fxxxxxyy) was stamped during engine assembly, right after the heads went on.
Two key differences between Flint and Tonawanda blocks:
1. Flint casting date code uses a single digit for the year in the casting date code, and Tonawanda used two digits for the year.
2. Flint engines had a drilled/tapped 1/8" NPT hole with a square-head plug in it just above the timing cover (see photo below), and Tonawanda blocks don't have that hole or plug.
From: 1961 Red w/White coves 85,532 Original Miles
Originally Posted by onequik1
I agree that everything I have read is that only blocks for these years were cast in Flint. However I was wondering how they kept track? Are there any other differences other the the F or T on the front pad and did they stamp the F or T when they left the casting plant or was this done at assembly?
The casting number on the back of the block is also a tell-tale sign if the block is a Tonawanda block. If the year is cast as two numbers as in "58", it is a Tonawand block. Where as a Flint block just has one number for the year, as in "8".
I guess JohnZ just said that. Oh well, there it is again.
Bill,
Maybe you may know the answer to the question I asked JohnZ ?
If it has a "58" date and the plug could it be a corvette engine or does it have to hvae both, the plug and a single digit date "8" for the year ?
Thanks John
Bill,
Maybe you may know the answer to the question I asked JohnZ ?
If it has a "58" date and the plug could it be a corvette engine or does it have to hvae both, the plug and a single digit date "8" for the year ?
Thanks John
The plug is VERY rarely seen on a Tonawanda block, possibly was an in-plant rework to drill that oil gallery intersection from outside when the internal drill process didn't open the passage. In any event, a 2-digit year code is positive identification of a Tonawanda block, plug or no plug.
The plug is VERY rarely seen on a Tonawanda block, possibly was an in-plant rework to drill that oil gallery intersection from outside when the internal drill process didn't open the passage. In any event, a 2-digit year code is positive identification of a Tonawanda block, plug or no plug.
John,
How the hell can you know all this stuff? Really appreciate your williness to share your knowlege, it has been really helpfull for me and I am sure plenty of others!
I attempted to call a rebuilt engine provider to inquire about a replacement 350, 383, etc. I am told that because I have a 3 spd stick, they could not provide me with an engine because (and I quote) " it will not have the right crank shaft for the pilot bearing". I am not a mechanic so I really don't know what to do at this point. I would like to know where I can purchase a crate or rebuilt motor that will fit a 58 Corvette that has a 3 spd stick. What specifically am I searching for and where might I find it?
Should I be looking for an engine AND 4 spd tranny?
Need help here!!!
Thanks once again (in advance)
Vinny
From: 1961 Red w/White coves 85,532 Original Miles
I have a nice 327 in my 58 that is bolted to a four speed. I am going to put the original motor back in so it is for sale. If interested email me at win1876@inebraska.com
How the hell can you know all this stuff? Really appreciate your williness to share your knowlege, it has been really helpfull for me and I am sure plenty of others!
Chris
do a search of John's posts and that will give you some clues if not the direct answer of how he knows all this stuff
I attempted to call a rebuilt engine provider to inquire about a replacement 350, 383, etc. I am told that because I have a 3 spd stick, they could not provide me with an engine because (and I quote) " it will not have the right crank shaft for the pilot bearing". I am not a mechanic so I really don't know what to do at this point. I would like to know where I can purchase a crate or rebuilt motor that will fit a 58 Corvette that has a 3 spd stick. What specifically am I searching for and where might I find it?
Should I be looking for an engine AND 4 spd tranny?
Need help here!!!
Thanks once again (in advance)
Vinny
You need to talk to a different engine rebuilder. Every SB Chevy crank (except the '57 Turboglide crank) is machined for a manual transmission pilot bushing (3-spd vs. 4-spd. makes no difference).