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My 63 has a 68 327. When the car is cold, it starts up instantly. When it is hot it has a delay when I try to start it. It has the ERR err ERR sound like its under pressure.
Any thoughts
I'm interested in the answe too - have the same issue. When hot, it really struggles to turn over. My guess is that my starter is on it's way out. I think the heat soak reduces the stater's torque.
heat soak (it was for me anyway), and in the grand scheme of things, basic Delco starters ain't too expensive or tough to swap, or have rebuilt if that is your fancy (esp wise if you have the original date-correct starter case on the engine still.)
I think Barry replaced his (or had his rebuilt, Barry did the R & Reinst). My biggest complaint when messing around with starters is the little nut they always seem to use that no SAE wrench in my toolbox seems to work for.
My 63 has a 68 327. When the car is cold, it starts up instantly. When it is hot it has a delay when I try to start it. It has the ERR err ERR sound like its under pressure.
Any thoughts
Do the easy things first. Check your initial timing and make sure it is not too far advanced, and check the battery for a weak or dead cell. If those check out OK, then the starter is the likely culprit.
IMO it's usually the solenoid. If you get a rebuilt starter from oreilly or someplace like that - where the the rebuilt starter comes with a new solenoid, make sure it has the larger solenoid on it, not the smaller ("metric") version. If you put a heat shield on the front starter support or make a support that doubles as a heat shield (as I did), the new solenoid (and the wiring harness) will be protected.
yep, I just had mine rebuilt. Cost was only $40 and that included rebuilding the whole insides and replacing the solenoid.
The R&R was easy and only took about 10 minutes each time.
solved my "grinding" sound problem.
A very simple change is to use a HD Buick V8 starter as the nose housings are the same and bolt right up with basically no difference or merely nominal in price.
The good old infamous Chevy starter drag....Hi torque factory starters work good. They are easily indentifiable by the space between where the copper lug comes out of the starter housing, and the solenoid itself. A little copper spacer is used to fill this gap along with a longer screw obviously.
I was told by someone a long time ago, but I don't know if it's true, that the drag is caused from the actual starter case expanding, and that the magnetic field created that drives the rotor is weakened due to case expansion. Take it for what it's worth.
Some years ago I had a problem with my 1962 Corvette where the starter would not engage & crank once the car was up to temp. The fix was to go to a " hot start" Bendix spring that had a Delco part number. I think the original application was for early V8 Novas that had higher engine compartment temps.This was more of an engagement problem than a cranking problem per se. I have the part number some where but my house is pretty disorganized due to some mods. If you replace the starter and/or solonoid try to find one. Particularly if the engine compartment gets especially hot Tom R