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I don't know his turnaround time but Dave Feidler seems to have the best reputation for distributors from the feedback i've seen.
I've seen my distributor taken apart twice already and it doesn't look that dificult. If all you need is new bushings you may want to try it yourself.
I just sent mine out but only because it NEEDED to be put on a Sun Distributor machine to get it recurved properly as it was all screwed up curve wise plus an elongated slot in the cam plate needs to be closed up a biy which mat require it be welded up a little.
Just replacing the bushings shouldn't be that bad though.
I have a tech paper on how to rebuild these if you are interested.
Lars for a great mechanical rebuild. Don Baker if you want a mechanical rebuild as well as cosmetic. Lars is a forum member. If you want more info let me know. Lars has done work for me before and I could only say good things.
aside from going outside, why not try it yourself? It is frightfully easy to do, once you get past the "will my car even run again after I touch this thing" fear. Lots of info in this forum, and live (nearly) advice as you go.
The only issue for most novices is pushing out and pressing in the bushings. Most of the bigger Corvette supply places sell the bushings and a setting tool to properly align the bushings. Like any bushing/race I recommend using a press instead of hammering, but not everyone has a press handy.
The only issue for most novices is pushing out and pressing in the bushings. Most of the bigger Corvette supply places sell the bushings and a setting tool to properly align the bushings. Like any bushing/race I recommend using a press instead of hammering, but not everyone has a press handy.
pressing in the bushings? You're freakin folks out . . . . the up and down "end play" on a Chev distrib is managed by shims, and to deal with that you have a little "drive pin" that holds the gear on the bottom of the shaft - I proper-sized punch handles that - or am I missing something?
Thanks Guys. My problem is not endplay, but runout. I have about .020 or more. Really sloppy. I know I need bushings and maybe a new shaft. I would also like the distributor recurved. I have no idea how old the springs are or where they are set. Lars, are you out there? Jerry
Jerry
DON'T replacce the mainshaft unless you absolutly have to. I made that mistake myself because I didn't know better at the time and chances are the original is going back into my distributor.
turns out that when these cars were new, each model distributor had a different main shaft. They made something like 37 different ones or so i'm told but they only make two different repro ones nowadays - one for the "regular" motors and one for the SHP motors.
the thing is these new shafts are also weighted differently and that affects the performance and the timing curve of the distributor.
Avoid replacing the mainshaft unless it's so bad you really have no choice.
pressing in the bushings? You're freakin folks out . . . . the up and down "end play" on a Chev distrib is managed by shims, and to deal with that you have a little "drive pin" that holds the gear on the bottom of the shaft - I proper-sized punch handles that - or am I missing something?
I am by no means an expert . . . .
The shims are located between the top of the driven gear & the housing... these are used to set shaft endplay. If endplay is excessive, the gear/shaft rides up & down on the cam drive gear while the engine is running, and timing is all over the map. That's problem #1.
The bushings are inside the housing, and the shaft rotates in them. If they (or the shaft) are worn, the distributor messes up, particularly if you still have points in it. Dwell/gap cannot be properly set or maintained. That's problem #2.
The bushings & the driver are readily available, but, the bushings need to be in near perfect alignment for the shaft to rotate without binding. To be done "right", the new bushings are supposed to be slightly tight, and are supposed to be align-honed to size after they are pressed into the housing. I don't believe all "kits" have "tight" bushings... some are meant to be just pressed in.
that's what I thought - if it's just shims (the up and down I described and you described) that does not require access to a press - and that's all I needed to attend to on mine.
pressing in the bushings? You're freakin folks out . . . . the up and down "end play" on a Chev distrib is managed by shims, and to deal with that you have a little "drive pin" that holds the gear on the bottom of the shaft - I proper-sized punch handles that - or am I missing something?
I am by no means an expert . . . .
Re-read the first post. It asked about bushings. I agree with you about setting end play though.
tom454
I agree that the best practices would involve align honing the bushings after pressing in, but in my experience, if care is taken when pressing in the bushings, honing is rarely necessary, but if there is noticeable drag on the shaft, then it should be done. The shaft should also be checked for burrs prior to inserting into the distributor with new bushings.
As mentioned earlier, loose bushings cause dwell to flutter. A 1 degree change in dwell creates a 1 degree change in timing.
Shaft endplay affects timing. As the shaft is allowed to move up and down, the pitch of the distributor gear changes the position of the distributor shaft changing timing.
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