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My 63 was running fine. Went on vacation and the car sat for 10 days.
Got home, put a charger on the battery, everything was fine. Disconneted the charger.
Tried to start the car, heard several clicks and the entire electrical shorted out. No lights, no radio, no anything. Checked all the fuses and they were ok. After about 10 minutes, all the electrical was restored. Had lights, radio, etc. Tried to start the car and the same thing happen. Again after about 10 minutes electrical was restored. Put charger back on the car and tried to start the car. Same as above results.
Any suggestions?
I'd first check the battery cables...both ends...on the battery and on the connections to the block and starter. THEN, I'd check the battery itself using a load tester. Chuck
If you check the batt connections and they're ok, I would check the BIG RED WIRE going into your connector block. Look under the steering column, it's there. The cheap blade connectors are a very weak link to the elect system. Have someone put a little pressure/wiggle the wire and see if things light up for you. I hard wired this wire (bypassed the block) and it's been fine for years now.
In addition to the above, IMO if it is the bulkhead connection to the 12R big red wire, the horn will blow while nothing else works. That's because the horn is powered under the hood by the battery/alternator, and the horn switch grounds the relay under the hood to energize the horns.
PS: That assumes your horns worked fine before the starting problem, and that the bulkhead connector is tight.
In addition to the above, IMO if it is the bulkhead connection to the 12R big red wire, the horn will blow while nothing else works. That's because the horn is powered under the hood by the battery/alternator, and the horn switch grounds the relay under the hood to energize the horns.
Actually, the clock would come on first before all the other electrical was restored. When the clock was running and all the other electrical was down, I turned the ignition switch on and the clock would stop. When I turned the ignition switch off, the clock started working again. But A funny thing happens. The second hand goes in reverse for about 3-4 seconds and then works properly.
As for my horn, Bubba has his way with it. He put in air horns. When I tear into the interior, I will correct this.
IF you still have the original clock, it is an electromechanical clock. When it winds down, the points connect, and the clock electrically rewinds. Then the circuit is broken.
The clock then mechanically "ticks" and works till it winds down again, the the points touch, and it rewinds again.
Now, if you have a quartz converted clock, all bets are off.
I would guess that they would be "powered" all the time. Chuck
I had the exact same problem. I traced it to the quick disconnect switch I had installed on the battery about a year ago. It was the kind with the green **** you screw in and out. The connection had corroded. When I took the quick connect off and put the cable directly back on the battery, the problem was solved.
Chuck
Thanks but the clock is quartz. I changed it about 2 years ago.
Norm
Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
I have to beg to differ a bit about the clock.
IF you still have the original clock, it is an electromechanical clock. When it winds down, the points connect, and the clock electrically rewinds. Then the circuit is broken.
The clock then mechanically "ticks" and works till it winds down again, the the points touch, and it rewinds again.
Now, if you have a quartz converted clock, all bets are off.
I would guess that they would be "powered" all the time. Chuck
I had the exact same problem. I traced it to the quick disconnect switch I had installed on the battery about a year ago. It was the kind with the green **** you screw in and out. The connection had corroded. When I took the quick connect off and put the cable directly back on the battery, the problem was solved.
Same problem here. Removed the disconnect, problem solved.
Be sure to remove the battery cables from the battery and clean the posts and cable ends. I Have seen more than one car with high resistance at the battery connections causing electrical gremlins.