I am wanting to restore my glove box door. I bought a replacement insert from paragon. I am looking for any tips that might make this job easier. I would like to make the door original looking by using rivets instead of screws to hold the door together. any tips or ideas would be great.

Don

 

Send me an email at redcorvette@mac.com since I am unable to do an attachment and I will send you a MS Word document on how to do the insert from the front. This was sent to me and I plan on using this method to restore the door. This seems much easier, and can't hurt the door if I screw up the panel. Figure I can practice on some store bought aluminum sheets a couple of times before I actually use the new panel. If you do not have MS Word to open it I can send it in a different format.

 

Red I sent you an e-mail. I also have an extra door I can practice on.

Thanks Don

 

Red65, sent you a PM.

 

If the procedure you are talking about is the one prepared by Bob Young, I tried a few months ago and it worked great. The only thing I would do is have someone to help you because an extra set of hands will be really nice.

Dave Marshall

 

Can you post the procedure or send me a copy?
Thanks in advance.

 

am I really going to have to ask?

 

Could someone enlighten me on the procedure of "replacing the aluminum insert from the front"? I am trying to picture this in my mind, but it's not working.
If I was going for the 'gold' I might try this, but otherwise you can doctor up the replacement screws that come with the kit and it looks just fine to me.

 

You have to trim the size of the new insert to where it is about 1/4" bigger all the way around than the opening. Then you have to work it under the edge of the opening and keep working it until it is positioned into the correct position. Really works pretty easily into place.

 

GLOVE BOX DOOR REPAIR
By Bob Young NCRS #3342


OBJECTIVE: Replace the aluminum facing on a 64-67 glove box door without dismantling the door or destroying the “rivets” on the backside. Normal repair procedures require drilling out these “rivets” and replacing them with small screws. PLEASE READ THIS COMPLETELY BEFORE ACTUALLY DOING THE RESTORATION!

METHOD: Place the glove box door face up on a table; push in on the face of the aluminum trim close to the door housing adjacent to the chrome plated “rim”. Note that it appears to be spring loaded and you can create a “gap” there…get the picture?? In a nutshell, you will be trimming the “oversized” replacement facing to fit “under” that gap! Read on for particulars….this will be too easy! Please note that I have included TWO methods, the second as an Addendum.

TOOLS REQUIRED: Dremel tool with ~1” diameter thin cut-off wheels, sheetrock knife, drill and 1/8” and #41/.096” diameter bits, epoxy glue or equivalent, 8 X 18” sheet of paper, 2 ½ X4 ½” single layer cardboard, scissors, tin snips, ink marker, ¾” masking tape, small file, pencil. (Believe that will cover most, if not all, items required).

PROCEDURE:
1. With door facing upward, cover the aluminum face with a sheet of paper (8X 18”); place one edge even with the bottom surface, centered, and up against the bottom chrome-rimmed trim. Secure with tape, flush to edge, noting the aluminum facing is completely covered.
2. Pushing down on paper with one hand to secure, use “fingernail” (other hand), press paper around the arc of the insert, resulting in a distinct “fold” that duplicates the shape of the existing insert. Remove and cut on fold producing a paper “insert” that fits the cavity. (Need to get shape of opening.)
3. Measure the position of the Corvette emblem – (9/16” up from the trim, 1 5/16” from the right side of the curved trim for my door) and mark this location on your paper. This will provide you with a transfer location for replacing the emblem to its original position on the new facing.
4. Using a single layer of cardboard (3 X 5” - I used cereal box), place the right hand lower corner of the paper template onto the cardboard and trace the shape onto that cardboard – cut to fit, resulting in that cardboard fitting exactly into that corner. This becomes the template for drilling holes (.096” diameter) into the new facing for the emblem. More on this later at Step 11.
5. Again, with the glove box door up, scribe a line on the surface of the aluminum facing that is ~1/2” AWAY and inboard from the perimeter of the chrome trim on the housing. Using the Dremel tool (or equivalent), cut out the entire face of the aluminum trim, leaving a good 1/2” of the “old facing” still intact. I used up about 10 wheels in the process. NOTE: See Addendum below for possible” better” method.
6. Remove the cut portion of the old facing – note the emblem is peened at the studs to secure the emblem to the aluminum trim. I chose to reuse the old one, hence will remove it carefully. Using 1/8” drill bit, drill the peened stock (back side of emblem) to facilitate removal; use caution not to drill too far and remove the remaining stud. Ideally, a short length of the stud will serve as a locater for placement on the new face. Carefully pry emblem from old facing. File stud ends and the outside diameter to remove burrs.
7. Using sheetrock knife or file, carefully scrape/file the cut edge of the remaining exposed aluminum facing to “de-burr”, removing any and all high nubs that might be present.
8. Place your new faceplate on a flat surface and lay the paper template such that it is 1/4” from the bottom and centered on the new insert; tape in place. Trace around the circumference of the paper template 1/4” away from the paper. Note your new size of the insert at the tracing is a full 1/4” larger than the cavity – ALL SIDES. (Your new facing must not have predrilled holes in the aluminum for the emblem – if it does, align template accordingly).
9. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR DIMENSIONS TO INSURE CUT IS NOT GOING TO LEAVE YOUR NEW FACING TOO SHORT!
10. Use good quality tin snips; carefully cut the aluminum insert on the scribed line, being cautious as to not bend the fragile sheeting. Additional cutting will be required for insert to fit around lock mechanism area. This cut will be circular – push down on old remaining insert and estimate shape/amount of cut required for insert to slide upward without hitting.
11. Back to the cardboard (step 4) – using the measurements of the emblem location, pencil that location (step 3) to the cardboard “corner” piece. Place the emblem within the marked area and confirm it is exactly the same location as it was on original facing. Press down on emblem to leave indentations/marks from the protruding emblem studs into the cardboard. These indents will be the location of the holes to be drilled in the new faceplate for emblem installation.
12. To insure the exact positioning of these holes, I cut around the original emblem holes in the old facing, approximately the size of the emblem, and positioned that directly above my indents to serve as a “drill guide”. Not required, but an insurance policy.
13. Place the cardboard corner template with emblem hole locations intact on top of newly cut-to-size faceplate. Confirm that you have ½” of the aluminum facing exposed on the bottom and right side of the cardboard template. Tape securely in place.
14. Place newly cut faceplate on flat board. Using a #41/.096” diameter drill bit, drill the four holes at the indentations provided by the emblem studs; again, I used the old piece of facing with predrilled holes as a drill guide as an additional safety measure. Remove cardboard and insert emblem to test/confirm fit. If you have new emblem, you could attach it to the faceplate at this time by peening the backsides of the studs.
15. Now for the fun part…mix small amount of epoxy (JB Weld or?? – even silicone cement should work) and place a dab about every 3” around perimeter and on top of the old faceplate (remember, 1/2” or so was left initially from the old facing). Spread to thin layer.
16. Cut a few short pieces of tape. Place them across the bottom of the new faceplate and also on one side ~3/8” in from the edge; this will serve as a “locator” for positioning the new insert, and approximates the new “exposed” size of the new insert..
17. I found that a piece of 2” masking tape should be placed over the LH side of the insert (first to be slid in place) to protect the surface of the new insert. Also, using a thin file, carefully file the underside of the glove box door directly below the chrome rim that borders the insert location; there may be some sharp burrs there that will scratch the surface if not careful.
18. Carefully place one corner of the new insert underneath the chromed rim and ON TOP of the old facing that sticks out. Gently slide the entire insert into the cavity. Now slide the insert downward and to one side such that the tape is now against the chrome rim of the housing. Your insert should now be centered, completely covering the old facing, Starting to look better now?
19. Place the emblem in holes – recheck the position of the emblem (step 3), confirming that it is in the exact location as it was originally. Use emblem as lever to slide as required to obtain that position. REMEASURE!
20. Confirm there is no epoxy etc. visible on the perimeter of your new facing – remove as required if there is (important not to have “too much” epoxy initially…do not believe the insert would ever move once installed even without bonding).
21. Place a few drops of epoxy on the backside of the emblem, especially around stud areas…a little goes a long way, and not necessary/desired to have it squeeze outside of emblem.
22. Repaint/refinish the semi-gloss area of the door either before or after this procedure…in any event, you now have a “new” door that has retained its totally original appearance on the back. Look Ma…no screws!

Hopefully, this description is adequately complete for even the novice restorer. Now, if they only made the inserts to fit as we have done – this secret is public knowledge now, so get busy! Even the most battered of doors, providing the housing is nice, can be refurbished to new again. Too bad you threw out that old door after all! You will notice that there is special trimming on the top area of the “insert” to permit the new face to be inserted at the glove box lock area – notch accordingly, again do not cut short.

If you should run into difficulties, or need additional information, don’t hesitate to contact me (704) 843-7156 or at email rlyoung63@aol.com for help. I hope to do this procedure as an article for The Restorer in the near future, complete with pictures. In that article, I will most likely present the restoration using a slightly different technique, described below in the Addendum, and what I believe to be a much easier method. You might want to consider this method instead of the above, which removes all but that ½” of facing – just not proven yet, but am totally confident it will work. Cutting the old facing out was quite time consuming and I now believed it to be unnecessary….. Now you have “two” choices, but do consider the revised procedure. Let me know your results.

ADDENDUM/REVISED PROCEDURE – Minimize cut time of old faceplate.

STEP 5. Scribe a line around the emblem and approximately ¼” from actual emblem outline. Use this as your new “CUT LINE” for the Dremel, removing ONLY that area around the emblem. Your glove box face should look intact with the exception of the removal of the emblem and surrounding material. Again, file high spots flat. Five-minute job instead of 30! Continue with Step 6.

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR RESTORATION!

 

Ask and you will recieve! Thanks for the detailed process. Time to order the insert and get at it. Kurt

 

Just got done doing mine on my 63 following these instructions. Very easy, took me a couple hours. I had an extra set of hands helping me which came in real handy.

 

Thanks Guys for the help. I have the insert I just need to find a few extra hours and I think I can get the results I was looking for.