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By table manners I mean have reasonable idle vacuum, have bottom end torque equal to or greater then the 30-30.
For his application, he would be well suited with a Holley 1850-3 600 CFM vac. sec. Screaming throttle response, and just when the carb is starting to get a case of asthma, he will shift (5800-6000 RPM).
Tuning for, planning for, or expectations above 6000 RPM in the posters application is a moot point, the valves will be floating, and the power/torque will take a nose dive.
He would be best suited to tune for 3500 - 5800 RPM, where the bulk and average time will be spent in a WOT condition.
Man if I built an 8000 rpm smallblock that had as little lowend as a 30/30 I'd be embrassed. The 30/30 is a miserable street cam compared with what else is out there.
Man if I built an 8000 rpm smallblock that had as little lowend as a 30/30 I'd be embrassed. The 30/30 is a miserable street cam compared with what else is out there.
I agree, but, we are taking about making "some" power under 2500 RPM, and also having a cam that will still be making some power at 8000 RPM. Not much in that envelope.
Lots of cams with decent lowend will be making power at 8000 if the heads and intake are decent. You're probably right for this guy a carb with the 600 venturi size (which includes the 650 DP) would be good. I love to be able to buzz the motor on light throttle which takes big holes. I ran a crossram with two 650 DP's for a while. It was great. But alas there was nothing I could do to get reasonable fuel economy. I read various posts here and recognize that a lot of these guys have never been able to experience (or appreciate) a truly stout smallblock. Let alone a bigblock. Seems like a big loss to me. The whole point of these cars (for me at least) is the great motors that can be awesome motors without much effort in a package that turns and stops and has charm. The C5/C6 may be fast but the trucklike behaviour of the motors is truly boring and alot of that speed comes from the aerodynamics and not the raw power anyway (plus the styling sucks IMHO).
ok, update on situation. think i have narrowed problem down. i used my old tach drive distributor instead of the one that came with my engine. it was a high output mallory i think. i check timing today with a light and the engine is running 48 advanced. way too much. sooooo, i am prob gonna have mech put dist back in that came with engine and time that back quite a bit. that and follow lars page on sd carb installation to the t. will keep you guys updated, thanks for the input.
ok, update on situation. think i have narrowed problem down. i used my old tach drive distributor instead of the one that came with my engine. it was a high output mallory i think. i check timing today with a light and the engine is running 48 advanced. way too much. sooooo, i am prob gonna have mech put dist back in that came with engine and time that back quite a bit. that and follow lars page on sd carb installation to the t. will keep you guys updated, thanks for the input.
john, i bought a albiet cheap but functional timing light that has adjustable timing function. at idle after warm i hooked up light and dialed in timing mark. when timing light is at 48 the timing mark was dead center on light and indicator. now, i suck at this and would not dream of messing with this stuff myself, but i assume this means either mark is not correct on wheel or timing light sucks. i really think that starting over on carb settings and putting the original distributor on car. so, here we go. just need to dial this engine in, spring is coming....
It won't start or run with 48* initial timing. Make sure the vacuum advance line is disconnected and plugged and you have the inductive clamp on the #1 wire and try it again.
John, my 383 started at 45* this past weekend, had the dizzy off one tooth when I installed it. The car idled a little rough, turned the adjuster on the timing light and got the "0" at 45*. Pulled the dizzy, oriented the oil pump, dropped it back in and it was very close to 12*. Wouldn't idle at all, new intake, had to reset the carb. Still have an initial bog, but need to make some more adjustments and run some more initial.
i agree, no way it could be at 48. shouldnt even turn over. but that is what the light said. now. just thinking here. either light stinks, possible. i am an idiot, problable. or, since i am new. would it be possible that the mark would line up on both 24 and 48 degrees? ie: i was seeing every other strobe hit the mark? i have to think about this some more. have to check my rear end as well. i may have too much cam for rear. i kinda want to burn some rubber. i know, immature.... have to also reset my carb, which i know was not properly set, now that i have the manual. i think my butterflies are off, cause it stumbles under light acceleration at beggining. but, will snow here tonight, so i got a week to mess with this.