Engine pad question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Fleetwood PA
Engine pad question
Not wanting to change any numbers, what would be better. Choice one, a 283 block that is the correct number and 6 weeks prior to the car's bulid date BUT the pad # is incorrect. Or, choice two, a 283 block that is the correct # but the block is dated 3 months after the car's build date, BUT the front pad has no # because the engine was replaced in this owner's 57 chevy in '58. Since a replacement block has no pad number I think this is the best bet since all original #'s is next to impossible. Thoughts anyone. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Fleetwood PA
Originally Posted by ls6racer
choice #1 and deck the block. then it's a closer dated block with no numbers.
my .02.
my .02.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 953
Likes: 27
for me it's just the better way to go. if there is no number on the pad it's no worse than a restamp or any other nightmare.
it's your best effort to put the car back to stock if that's the route you're going. if you sell it, the new owner can restamp it or whatever.
my advice is do what you feel like doing and enjoy your car.
the purists have enough cars to pick apart. it's not worth the hassle.
it's your best effort to put the car back to stock if that's the route you're going. if you sell it, the new owner can restamp it or whatever.
my advice is do what you feel like doing and enjoy your car.
the purists have enough cars to pick apart. it's not worth the hassle.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
I would choose option #1, and might deck the block, without restamping it. More often than not, restamps don't turn out well enough to fool the experts anyway. By choosing a block with a correct date, at least it can be correct. A block with a later date never can be correct.
Another option is to keep on looking. Somewhere there must be an original Corvette block with the right date and stamping that is looking for a car. But they are hard to find.
Another option is to keep on looking. Somewhere there must be an original Corvette block with the right date and stamping that is looking for a car. But they are hard to find.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 68
From: Towanda KS
I would take the block that predates the car's build date.. If you or someone else ever decides to have the car judged, you will not get any points for the pad anyway if the casting date is after the cars build date..
tc
tc
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Fleetwood PA
Thanks to all who replied both here and by PM. I was tracking this block for 10 days and on Friday someone called me and said an NCRS member had a replacement block in a '57 chevy with a 1/58 date and no pad stamp. For awhile I thought that might be better but went back to my first choice and bought the 9/5/57 block for my build date of 10/16/57. These blocks are tough to find and mine is an early one to boot. Went for more than I thought but don't know when the next when comes along. Looking for and complicating it with the correct pad stamp is like trying to win the lottery to me. Thanks to all again and this is certainly are a great group with whom to talk and associate. 
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: No. 13
Originally Posted by trw58c1
Thanks to all who replied both here and by PM. I was tracking this block for 10 days and on Friday someone called me and said an NCRS member had a replacement block in a '57 chevy with a 1/58 date and no pad stamp. For awhile I thought that might be better but went back to my first choice and bought the 9/5/57 block for my build date of 10/16/57. These blocks are tough to find and mine is an early one to boot. Went for more than I thought but don't know when the next when comes along. Looking for and complicating it with the correct pad stamp is like trying to win the lottery to me. Thanks to all again and this is certainly are a great group with whom to talk and associate.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,925
From: Washington Michigan
The pad is pretty unimportant in the grand scheme of things - what REALLY counts is the casting number and casting date - that's where most of the points are for the block.
The block is judged sequentially. Casting number is checked first - if not correct, you get a 350-point deduction, and block judging stops right there. If the casting number is correct, the casting date is checked next - if not correct, you get a 175-point deduction and block judging stops right there. If the date is correct, judging proceeds to the stamp pad - VIN stamp is 25 points, engine plant stamp is 25 points, and the pad surface is 38 points.
The casting number and casting date are MUCH more important than the stamp pad in terms of points/deductions.
The block is judged sequentially. Casting number is checked first - if not correct, you get a 350-point deduction, and block judging stops right there. If the casting number is correct, the casting date is checked next - if not correct, you get a 175-point deduction and block judging stops right there. If the date is correct, judging proceeds to the stamp pad - VIN stamp is 25 points, engine plant stamp is 25 points, and the pad surface is 38 points.
The casting number and casting date are MUCH more important than the stamp pad in terms of points/deductions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,257
Likes: 6
From: Mission Viejo California
Originally Posted by JohnZ
If the date is correct, judging proceeds to the stamp pad - VIN stamp is 25 points, engine plant stamp is 25 points, and the pad surface is 38 points.
The casting number and casting date are MUCH more important than the stamp pad in terms of points/deductions.