Convert from Generator to Alternator on a 58
#1
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Convert from Generator to Alternator on a 58
I am going to replace my tired NOM 283 with a 350 crate engine. (Details on previous post). I am contemplating converting from a generator to an alternator. I see there are various types (eg. "1 wire", etc.). Is there a simple way to do this? What do I need to complete this conversion? Is there some sort of a kit available?
I also heard that the old amp gauge needs to be modified ( a resistor or jumper or something) to keep it functional. Any experiences and recommendations?
Thanks,
Vinny
I also heard that the old amp gauge needs to be modified ( a resistor or jumper or something) to keep it functional. Any experiences and recommendations?
Thanks,
Vinny
#2
Safety Car
Several months ago someone posted about finding an alternator for a combine (?) or some other type of farm/industrial machine that has a tach drive adaptor.
Try doing a search. (I know, it doesn't always work.)
Try doing a search. (I know, it doesn't always work.)
#3
Melting Slicks
Unless you are continplating adding a higher electrical load ( AC, high amp stereo system) there is no need for an alternator. A C-1 uses about 25-30 amps when all accessaries are being used. Your 30 amp generator will do just fine plus you wont have to deal with the tach drive issue.
#4
C1 alternator conversion
I put a crate motor in my '61 last year. Generator replaced with alternator. I had B&M automotive in Knoxville do it for me. They converted the tach and whatever was necessary for the alternator. They are a great shop and would tell you if you were to call them I'm sure.
I don't remember the details, I think they sent the tach out to "Roger's" or something and it looks the same, just different innards to make it electronic.
Try a search for them for their phone number, I don't have it with me. If you have any questions send me a note "di55807@alltel.net".
G'day, Dave
I don't remember the details, I think they sent the tach out to "Roger's" or something and it looks the same, just different innards to make it electronic.
Try a search for them for their phone number, I don't have it with me. If you have any questions send me a note "di55807@alltel.net".
G'day, Dave
#5
Burning Brakes
Alternator that looks like a Generator
In either Vette or Corvette Fever this month there is a product review of an alternator that looks like a generator. You may want to look it up, if I think about it I'll look tonight and post the info. tomorrow.
JP
JP
#7
Melting Slicks
The simple way to do this is to stick with the generator. What do you need more power for?
If you go to an alternator, you'll also need to solve the mounting problem; how to drive the tach; and, how to make the battery gauge work. You can solve all those problems with money and time. But why make your life more difficult? Bolt in the generator and drive the car.
If you go to an alternator, you'll also need to solve the mounting problem; how to drive the tach; and, how to make the battery gauge work. You can solve all those problems with money and time. But why make your life more difficult? Bolt in the generator and drive the car.
#8
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=73&TopicID=4
Here is the link to what I wrote about converting the generator to an alternator. It's here on the forum under tech help. I needed the juice because I added air to my '59. It's pretty easy to tell who is running a generator when I'm with other c-1's by the dimness of their headlights. Clocks by Roger can convert your tach to electric and also your amp gauge to a safer voltmeter. Keep the old parts and let the next owner decide which he likes best. I'll never go back and a little work to be less prone to a major electrical fire and headlights that really reach out at night was worth the time and money to me. As always just my opinion. Save the Wave.
Here is the link to what I wrote about converting the generator to an alternator. It's here on the forum under tech help. I needed the juice because I added air to my '59. It's pretty easy to tell who is running a generator when I'm with other c-1's by the dimness of their headlights. Clocks by Roger can convert your tach to electric and also your amp gauge to a safer voltmeter. Keep the old parts and let the next owner decide which he likes best. I'll never go back and a little work to be less prone to a major electrical fire and headlights that really reach out at night was worth the time and money to me. As always just my opinion. Save the Wave.
#9
Race Director
You don't have to alter your amp gauge, it will work just fine with the alternator, as long as it is a 37 or even a 63 amp alternator, though with the 63 amp alternator, i would be a bit leery about trying to charge a fully drained battery via the alternator if you have an amp gauge rather than a volt meter.
If you talk to MAD electrical, he will want you to rewire your entire car,and I mean the entire car. It may be the best way to have your car wired, but it isn't necessary.
I originally used an external regulated alternator,a nd connected the power out to the same line that currently goes from the generator to amp gauge, The rotor (field) connection on the plug (I don't remember if it is terminal 1 or 2) goes to F or 1 on the VR, the other aternator plug terminal goes to 2 on the VR, 3 on the VR goes directly to a hot power source,and 4 on the vr goes to an idiot light or the ignition switch, but you need to put a 10 ohm resistor in the line if no idiot light is in the circuit
A sigle wire alternator connects directly to your battery and bypasses your ammeter altogether.
An internal regulated alt, has terminal #2 going to a hot lead and terminal 1 going to either the accessory side of your ign switch, or the run side of your ignition switch. You need to put a 10 ohm resistor or diode in terminal #1 line so your car will shut off.
Doug
If you talk to MAD electrical, he will want you to rewire your entire car,and I mean the entire car. It may be the best way to have your car wired, but it isn't necessary.
I originally used an external regulated alternator,a nd connected the power out to the same line that currently goes from the generator to amp gauge, The rotor (field) connection on the plug (I don't remember if it is terminal 1 or 2) goes to F or 1 on the VR, the other aternator plug terminal goes to 2 on the VR, 3 on the VR goes directly to a hot power source,and 4 on the vr goes to an idiot light or the ignition switch, but you need to put a 10 ohm resistor in the line if no idiot light is in the circuit
A sigle wire alternator connects directly to your battery and bypasses your ammeter altogether.
An internal regulated alt, has terminal #2 going to a hot lead and terminal 1 going to either the accessory side of your ign switch, or the run side of your ignition switch. You need to put a 10 ohm resistor or diode in terminal #1 line so your car will shut off.
Doug
#11
Burning Brakes
If you are going with headers check out Alan Grove for a great alternator bracket
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/
They have a great set up for left or right side mount. If your going to have air conditioning this is the bracket that all the major AC vendors send for the compressor.
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/
They have a great set up for left or right side mount. If your going to have air conditioning this is the bracket that all the major AC vendors send for the compressor.
#12
Instructor
My '61 has a 350 with an alternator. I replaced amp meter with a volt meter (Autometer) . I added a fusable link and a buss bar in battery feed line. In all not that big of a project except pulling dash cluster.
In answer of value of alt vs work. I would go with alternator.
IMHO,
In answer of value of alt vs work. I would go with alternator.
IMHO,