Ready to run motor...advice?
08-18-2001, 01:08 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ready to run motor...advice?
OK, got the big block rebuilt to factory specs and will run on stand within next couple of days. Any last minute "must dos" anyone can think of, advice to hopefully ensure successful run and break-in? Thanks, wish me luck. :seeya :chevy
08-18-2001, 09:01 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Just About 40 Min's from NYC
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Re: Ready to run motor...advice? (LT1driver)
try this link http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/crate_eng/startup.shtml When I had my motor out I wanted it to go to a dyno for a break in.The motor shop jerked me around with appointments I finally put it back in with no dyno run.If you could get it on a dyno the could set it all up to see where it makes the most power and give you all the setting.The price quote I was given was approx $600.00
08-18-2001, 10:46 PM
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Re: Ready to run motor...advice? (Ih2lose)
Assuming you have a new cam and lifters that need an instant start and 20-minute 2000-rpm break-in, make sure your float bowls are full (fill them through the vent tubes first so it'll start instantly), and make sure your timing is as close as possible so it'll stay running by itself (set your damper line to the correct index on the timing tab while at #1 TDC, connect a test light from the small distributor primary wire[the one that goes to the coil (-) terminal] to ground, turn ignition on (test light will come on if points are closed), and turn the distributor counterclockwise until the light JUST goes out and lock it down. This will set your timing within one degree before you even start it. Before doing any of the above, use a primer tool (a good one, like Tavia makes, with a sliding collar at the top) and a drill motor to spin the oil pump until you see oil pressure and have oil coming out of the top of the pushrods; the sliding top collar that seats in the distributor hole in the manifold simulates the upper distributor housing so you get oil pressure in the lifter galleries - if you just use a plain shaft to spin the oil pump, the oil won't get to the lifter galleries - it'll just drain down the distributor hole back into the pan.
Prime the oil system so the bearings don't start out dry, fill the float bowls, set the timing on the money, and it'll fire right up and stay running for cam break-in.
[Modified by JohnZ, 9:48 PM 8/18/2001]
Prime the oil system so the bearings don't start out dry, fill the float bowls, set the timing on the money, and it'll fire right up and stay running for cam break-in.
[Modified by JohnZ, 9:48 PM 8/18/2001]
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