Well, it's definitely not the battery. I just check the the charger and it was done charging. I check the gauges, lamps, radio, etc. Everything worked. I turn the key - click and dead. I hooked up the lamp again, jiggle the wiring harness to that lamp, and turn on the lights. That lamp was off for a second, and then went on. Turn the key, this time it turns over! So, I'm an electrical idiot (despite being a mech engineer :(). Any pointers on where to be troubleshooting/repairing would be appreciated.

Bob


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I found the low beam on my passenger side out a couple of weeks ago. I just got around to swapping out the lamp and found it wasn't the lamp after all. The new one didn't work either, so I swapped it with the known good one on my driver's side and presto it worked. I did clean up the plug contacts a bit between the swap. The wires look good, etc. Just went to go for a ride - I get in the car turn the key and get a click at the starter and nothing - everything went dead. I momentarily removed and replaced the negative battery cable and the head lights work - volt gauge show a slight undercharge, but the radio wasn't working. Turn the key again - click! and dead. I then disconnected the passenger side low beam lamp (figured this would isolate the light if this was a problem). Remove battery cable and re-seat - headlamps again - turn key, click and ..you get the idea.

I checked the fuses and they all look fine. I just put the battery charger on the car and it was/is drawing about 4-5 AMP (need is dropping with continued charging). The car started fine about 2 weeks ago. So, the question is - is this just a coincidence, or did I hose something up. The battery is of unknown age. Looks like I'll go get a new one in the morning - any suggestions on one (doesn't have to be "correct").

Thank in advance for any help or hints,

Bob

67 327/350 Convertible Silver Pearl/Black :( :(


[Modified by RGGregory, 7:32 PM 8/18/2001]

 

I would certainly suspect the battery. They will often power low power items but not give enough juice to make the high draw starter solenoid work. How about swapping in a battery? BTW, Auto Zone and other big chains will test your battery for you for free.
Gary

 

I had aproblem earlier this year where pretty much everything would quit but the engine still ran . The problem was the connector on the firewall that goes into the back of the fuse panel . Disconnected the bat. cleaned it up & problem gone . Happy Hunting.

 

1. First the battery is never out of the equation until it is load tested. Alot of the current batteries develop an internal resistance that prevents it from passing hight current, it also will not reach fully charged voltage of 13.8 volts. Sometimes they develop an internal resistance path that discharges the battery over time. Anyway get it tested so you know where you are starting and eliminate the battery.

2. The other thing is the connections from the battery to the starter solinoid, if it's loose here (high resistance under high current) it won't turn the starter. I've also seen high resistance in the battery cables (those clamp on cable ends are junk), buy a new cable. Remember to check both cables and connection to the block and negitive side. You can test a cable by putting the voltmeter leads at each end of the cable and hit the starter and measure the voltage drop of the cable, should be less than a volt or so. Logicaly if you have 4 volts drop accross the cable there's only 8 volts left for the starter, gonna be slow folks.

3. As mentioned in an earlier post if the firewall connection is not right you might not even get the solinoid to click amoung other things. You need to determine if it's a high current (starter / battery) or low current issue (solinoid / ignition switch control)

Hope this helps Bob.

Joe


[Modified by WB6HRO, 5:05 PM 8/19/2001]

 

btdt just recently.....again, i'd go with the basics...check every connector you can find, check the battery terminals and then check EVERY ground wire you can find...for the sake of argument, if your battery is relatively new, imho, replacing the battery is an option but not the initial suspect, imho, :yesnod:

 

I thought I'd provide some feedback on the solution to my problem in case anyone else has a similar one:

The problem was the headlamp extension harness that runs from the main starter/ignition and headlamp harness to the high and low beam lamp plugs. I did a little self education with my wiring diagram and narrowed it down to a worn harness where it pass through the head lamp bucket shaft. Got a harness from LIC (Lectric Limited was harness maker) Swapped it out - and presto no problems. It's sunny and 77 degrees right....guess what I'm doing next....:D

vr
Bob

67 327/350 Silver Pearl/Black Convertible :D


[Modified by RGGregory, 3:12 PM 8/25/2001]

 

Bob, did the new t/s switch fix your tailight/brakelight problem?