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New Clutch

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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 08:21 AM
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Default New Clutch

Just installed a new clutch in my 66. Started car and when I tried to shift , the clutch would not disengage. I have adjusted the clutch and it is nearly fully adjusted. I am wondering if I should increase the length of the clutch fork rod and give myself more adjustment (push) up top to disengage the new clutch. Any suggestions.
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 08:54 AM
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Uh oh - been there done that -. Need to ask you a few questions


1) What brand/type of clutch?
2) New bellhousing?
3) Did you test fit the pilot bushing on the input shaft?
4) Did you have to beat the snot of the pilot bushing to get it in?
5) Did you get your flywheel cut?


Whatever you do don;t try to make it work by waaaay over adjusting - you will damage the pressure plate fingers. When a clutch disengages the motor from the drivetrain, you get that "feel" in the pedal. If that feel is there and the clutch is not disengaging you don't need to go further.


Brian
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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Default New Cluthc

Allcoupedup,
In response to your questions:
1. can't remember type, but just normal driving application
2. same bellhousing
3. did fit pilot bearing
4. went in with relative persuasion
5. had flywheel turned
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 10:28 AM
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are you REAL sure you didnt put the disc in backwards??? anyone who has installed clutches alot has done this once......or they're lyin.....
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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From: 20 forward gears to shift through in MD
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Originally Posted by Sharkatk
Just installed a new clutch in my 66. Started car and when I tried to shift , the clutch would not disengage. I have adjusted the clutch and it is nearly fully adjusted. I am wondering if I should increase the length of the clutch fork rod and give myself more adjustment (push) up top to disengage the new clutch. Any suggestions.
Any chance you put in a new throwout bearing? There are two different sizes (length wise), and if you use the wrong one it will definitely cause the kind of problems you are describing...
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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I did change the throwout bearing, but we did measure against the old one and everything looked o.k.
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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There are threethings that could be happening

1) Transmission input shaft is not spinning in the pilot bushing/bearing
2) Clutch disc is stuck
3) Not enough travel to disengage clutch


#2 is unlikely unless you put it in backwards or have some kind of parts mismatch or the diaphragm spring is damaged. DID YOU FOLLOW THE CORRECT BOLT TIGHTENING PROCEDURE?

#3 you can eliminate by feeling your way through the travel of the clutch pedal.


#1 - if #1 is occuring, the input shaft will be spinning with the disc. The coupling will be strong enough to stop the transmission from going into gear but will not be strong enough to move the car. You could start the car in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in and give it a quick rev.


brian
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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"it is nearly fully adjusted".

This mystifys me. Are you saying you are just about out of adjustment?

Do you have any free play at the top of the pedal? If not, crank whatever adjustment in there it takes to get it. When you run out of threads, you have a problem. Many C-2's are all teh way out on adjustment and everything is normal. As your clutch wears, you'll start getting it back.
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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Did you install the throwout bearing correctly on the clutch fork (anti-rattle spring ends INSIDE the groove with the fork ends)? The design allows it to be done wrong, and if it's done that way, you won't have enough adjustment to get correct free play.



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Old Apr 13, 2006 | 03:42 PM
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Don't feel like you are the only one.

An idea! You are going to need to get the car up on stands so you can get under it. Remove the bellhousing inspection plate and try to get an L shaped piece of metal, like a old butter knife bent in half, to slide between the pressure plate to clutch plate with someone pressing the clutch in and also between the clutch plate and flywheel. That might help a bit on finding the problem.

This is why I parked mine 15yrs ago and it worked fine for 10 years. I must have had a frozen clutch plate to pressure plate - I think, as it wouldn't disengage. I've started restoration with the engine and trans out and I can't find anything wrong. At least visually. Pressure plate works fine.
The pressure plate is not releasing from the clutch plate which is not releasing from the flywheel.
It makes me think something needs to be well lubed.

It looks like we both need the same answers.

1) A std pilot bushing or a roller bearing type in the new flywheel?

2) Exactly the brand and part number for a replacement clutch kit. For a 327/300hp. Absolutely the best non racing kit.

3) Where and how much lube on what part?


I'm scared to death on putting the wrong clutch kit in a new re -build. If it doesn't work the first time, it's easier to pull the engine and tranny to replace the kit. A real bad job!!!

We'll be watching - Special thanks to All
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