65-StingRay

I thought I might get lucky and breeze thru the removal of the body mts. on my '65 coupe. Had trouble with #3 but got it off. Now the last one, number 4 mount nut on the driver's side is turning freely inside the cage. So I'm probably going to cut the head of the bolt off unless anyone has another suggestion.
My real problem however is going to be, how to replace and repair the reinforcement and caged/nut that goes there. I see no access to the top side where the caged/nut sits. So it looks like it may involve some body work. Again I'm not sure.
If anyone else has experienced this or knows a solution I need to hear it. Thanks.

65-StingRay

Cmacsvette

I hope I understand your question. The access to the caged nut is under your rug area in the inside rear corners. You can buy just the new cages and nuts. The cage is riveted to the body and the body mount bracket covers the two rivets that hold the caged nut to the body. After you lift the body off, drill the rivets out on the #4 body mount brackets to get to the rivets that hold the caged nuts. Use the big flat head rivets when installing the cage nuts and the body mount. A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel will come in handy if you don't have one yet.
Craig

BTW, cutting off the bolt is just fine, these items need to be replaced anyway..............go for it.

Corbrastang

I had to do the same thing and my car was pretty much rust free or at least rust free comparatively speaking to other cars this age. Unless of course you are comparing it to a car from California or Arizona.





Letting is soak in penetrating oil, which did no good!

Seaside63

I am in the same boat. #4 mount on the driver's side.

Why is it always the #4 mount on the driver's side? Wierd, huh.

SPLITRAY

Hey...4 for 4...
I had to do that one as well. I dremeled out the nut and cage, cut the rivets off and bought a new nut and cage assy.

I used a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt head off from between the mount and the body.

Corbrastang

What did you guys do about putting the cage back in place?? I dont want to take my entire bracket out to mount the cage nut with rivets so i was thinking that i would just use the nut without the cage. Any comments??

Seaside63

Haven't done mine yet. I was waiting on you....

buns

I have just been through all this and would suggest leaving the reinforcement on. It is a major pain to replace the rivets. There is no room to swing a hammer. I am certain these pieces were attached to the floor pan before the body was assembled. I see no reason why you couldn't use the nut without the cage. There is ample room to get a wrench on it. And I beleive the caged nuts sell for $10.00 each.

Also, if you have a rag top , be very carefull when removing the upper deck lid hinge bolts. I broke one off and even Harry Houdini couln't get up in there to drill and tap. Because of this I have had to cut a hole in the fiberglass to access it. Luckily, this will be the bodymans job to fix.

65-StingRay

Thanks for the replies guys. It's kinda good to know that others have gone thru the same troubles.

Cmacsvette you got it right. You know I checked under the rug but my rear blower motor is in the way so I may have to move it out of the way 1st to get access. Tomorrow I'll cut off the head of the bolt and build my dolly for the body.

Great pics Corbrastang, keep us informed if you put the nut on without caging it. I'll be using my dremel tomorrow or a hacksaw blade.

Buns I like your thinking on this. It definitely looks like it was assembled before it went on the body. I also thought it would be tough to swing a hammer in there to replace those rivets.
I will try to get thru the top and only repair what I have to.

After I remove the body I'm going to acid dip my frame then the guys will shoot some aluminum oxide into the frame rails. Initially I was going to powder coat (expensive) but since then I have learned you wouldn't be able to get it into the frame rails. So instead I will use a semi-gloss black epoxy paint which I will apply. I may use POR15 as an undercoat but I haven't decided yet.
Thanks again guys.

65-StingRay

Cmacsvette

65-Sting,

I didn't know how original you wanted to stay, but I too was going to tell you the same. You could cut the cage loose from its two rivets inside and just add a washer on the inside and install a lock nut to the new bolt. The only real reason I can ever come up with, why that bolt has a captured nut was for the ease of one man to install that #4 bolt without needing a second man to back up the nut on the inside at the factory, just a guess. So of course you would need someone to hold it while you tighten the bolt. A stover lock nut would work great for a nut.
If you are going to remove brackets to treat them and paint, then you might as well put it back the way it was. Just my 3 cents.
Craig

BTW, if one just had to have the cage installed and "did not" want to remove the body mount bracket, here's another idea. You could drill out the two rivets that hold the cage to the body and drill all the way through the bracket. Drill a hole just big enough for a # 10-32 counter sink screw. Counter sink the bracket for the screw and then nut the new cage on the inside with nuts that have a captured lock washer.

Corbrastang

Or you could have your frame e-coated like i did, which coats the entire inside of the frame, then powdercoated.

65-StingRay

You guys are good. Real good. I'm stepping away from this computer and heading to the garage. I'm re-motivated.

65-StingRay

SPLITRAY

I am reattaching my cage, Only I'm going to use the appropriate size Stainlees Steel screws and nuts. They will probably be #10's.

65-StingRay

Hope this comes thru.