Camber Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro NC
Camber Question
Installed new camber bolds in the rear end as the old ones were rusted pretty bad. I failed to mark the old ones. Is adjusting the cam and camber easy?
Will I be ok just leaving them alone until I'm through with the restoration and then take it to an alignment shop since the front end will need to be aligned anyway?
Next question, when shopping for an alignment shop what are some questions I should ask before taking my car to them?
Will I be ok just leaving them alone until I'm through with the restoration and then take it to an alignment shop since the front end will need to be aligned anyway?
Next question, when shopping for an alignment shop what are some questions I should ask before taking my car to them?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
Rear alignment is difficult to get a shop to do at all, let alone correctly. Shops that said they had done the rears of c2-c3 cars before and would do it - no problem - left the alignment of my c2 screwed up. I ended up doing it at home with a level, chalk, string, and 4 plastic or metal plates.
The camber can easily be set to zero with any carpenter's level. Take (2) 1 foot squares of sheet plastic or metal (cheap aluminum flashing?) and smear grease between like a pj sandwich. Put a sandwich under each rear wheel and set the camber. Just push down on the back bumper every time you make a change and the wheels will resettle. When the level says the tire is vertical, the camber is zero. Alignment is a bit harder. If you want a diagram and instructions, email me. Note that the floor that the car is on has to be fairly level (from left to right) to get it right, but I'll bet if you ask any alignment shop when was the last time they leveled their equipment, you will get a blank stare.
The camber can easily be set to zero with any carpenter's level. Take (2) 1 foot squares of sheet plastic or metal (cheap aluminum flashing?) and smear grease between like a pj sandwich. Put a sandwich under each rear wheel and set the camber. Just push down on the back bumper every time you make a change and the wheels will resettle. When the level says the tire is vertical, the camber is zero. Alignment is a bit harder. If you want a diagram and instructions, email me. Note that the floor that the car is on has to be fairly level (from left to right) to get it right, but I'll bet if you ask any alignment shop when was the last time they leveled their equipment, you will get a blank stare.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro NC
Originally Posted by magicv8
Rear alignment is difficult to get a shop to do at all, let alone correctly. Shops that said they had done the rears of c2-c3 cars before and would do it - no problem - left the alignment of my c2 screwed up. I ended up doing it at home with a level, chalk, string, and 4 plastic or metal plates.
The camber can easily be set to zero with any carpenter's level. Take (2) 1 foot squares of sheet plastic or metal (cheap aluminum flashing?) and smear grease between like a pj sandwich. Put a sandwich under each rear wheel and set the camber. Just push down on the back bumper every time you make a change and the wheels will resettle. When the level says the tire is vertical, the camber is zero. Alignment is a bit harder. If you want a diagram and instructions, email me. Note that the floor that the car is on has to be fairly level (from left to right) to get it right, but I'll bet if you ask any alignment shop when was the last time they leveled their equipment, you will get a blank stare.
The camber can easily be set to zero with any carpenter's level. Take (2) 1 foot squares of sheet plastic or metal (cheap aluminum flashing?) and smear grease between like a pj sandwich. Put a sandwich under each rear wheel and set the camber. Just push down on the back bumper every time you make a change and the wheels will resettle. When the level says the tire is vertical, the camber is zero. Alignment is a bit harder. If you want a diagram and instructions, email me. Note that the floor that the car is on has to be fairly level (from left to right) to get it right, but I'll bet if you ask any alignment shop when was the last time they leveled their equipment, you will get a blank stare.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
Sent back pic and instructions.
Others will get the same if they use email - like you did. If they send a private message PM the pic can't be attached (as I replied to one PM).
Others will get the same if they use email - like you did. If they send a private message PM the pic can't be attached (as I replied to one PM).
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Check with your local Corvette Club or NCRS Chapter and see what alignment shop they recommend. The front end is conventional, just like passenger cars, but the rear end is unique. Setting rear camber is simple (assuming you've installed the little caps on the inboard bushing ends before installing the cam bolts), but setting rear toe-in (which is the most critical adjustment on the car) is totally unique to C2/C3 Corvettes and MUST be done correctly. 
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in the Finger Lakes of NY
Originally Posted by magicv8
Take (2) 1 foot squares of sheet plastic or metal (cheap aluminum flashing?) and smear grease between like a pj sandwich. Put a sandwich under each rear wheel and set the camber.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
Originally Posted by Don Keefhardt
Linoleum floor tiles work, too. Just make sure you use the 'smooth', not the 'chunky', axle grease....
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
When you put the camber bolts into the bracket mounted on the diff, make sure you put them in "back to front", NOT "front to back".
If you put them in "front to back" you can never get them out without dropping the bracket.
Check your AIM, and you'll see the correct way. The camber bolt and head faces the rear of the car. The nut faces the front. Chuck
If you put them in "front to back" you can never get them out without dropping the bracket.
Check your AIM, and you'll see the correct way. The camber bolt and head faces the rear of the car. The nut faces the front. Chuck
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