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I very rarely drive my 63 at night, but it got dark while I was cruising last night and I had to use the headlights. They are very dull. I had to put the high beams on just to see and be seen. They might even be original bulbs. I noticed that my amp gauge really goes down when the headlights on. When I got home I lifted the hood to make sure that everything was connected properly. I noticed that the alternator is only 37amp. Could that be my problem. Also are replacement bulbs any brighter. I putting a stereo system in the car next week. Does the alternator put out enough power to handle the headlights and the stereo??
I noticed that my amp gauge really goes down when the headlights on.
If your amp gauge is going down with the engine running, then it sounds like your alt/voltage regulator quite working. Is this happening only at idle, or with the engine off, or is this with the engine at speed?
I noticed that the alternator is only 37amp.
Also are replacement bulbs any brighter.
I putting a stereo system in the car next week. Does the alternator put out enough power to handle the headlights and the stereo??
It depends on the stereo. The 37 amp alternator is stock and may be original. Most auto stores will supply you with a cheap upgrade if you tell them your car has A-C - and you can bag your original for a later resto instead of using it for a core charge.
IMO if you have original T3 headlamps, bag them too (first wipe grease around the base of the terminals to prevent deterioration of the seals). An inexpensive set of auto store replacement halogen lamps will brighten your night. The stock engine bay harness can handle that.
The stereo may be a problem. IMO if you intend to add a stereo that draws more than 20 or 30 watts, it would be a good idea to run a line from the battery or starter to supply added power. You can actually bypass the weak link at the bulkhead connector that way, otherwise IMO driving at night with the stereo and the heater blower running may be more than the old connector can stand. I connected my auxiliary lead through a 50 amp circuit breaker to the key switch connector and the red harness wire that supplied the key switch. That way everything that the key supplies comes through the new line and everything that the red battery wire connects to (e.g. headlamps) also gets power on the new line. The original harness is not cut or disturbed and the added line can be removed to get the car judged.
Even after replacing my complete harness the lights were dim at night. I changed to the halogen lights , 5001 and 5006. It made a big differance. You might want to buy new adjuster kit. http://www.zip-products.com/Corvette...E98BE773979460
Started to put in the headlights and snap! So I had to wait for the parts.
Last year I installed a later model 85 amp delco alternator (with the internal regulator). With this change I have higher voltage thoughout the entire system and (best of all) I can run the A/C, Stereo & headlights and it does not discharge more than one width of the gauge indicator at an idle. Check out this thread about headlight brightness (lots of great info). Headlights Dim
Roy
Although the car is a 63, the engine is from a 69. This may sound dumb, but if I upgrade to an 85 style alternator, would that eliminate the need to replace the voltage regulator? Should I upgrade the voltage regulator anyway? The car isn't close to being original and never will be. Any changes that I make would be to make it more dependable and more drivable.
Although the car is a 63, the engine is from a 69. This may sound dumb, but if I upgrade to an 85 style alternator, would that eliminate the need to replace the voltage regulator? Should I upgrade the voltage regulator anyway? The car isn't close to being original and never will be. Any changes that I make would be to make it more dependable and more drivable.
If you go with the AC/Delco 12SI alternator (with an internal regulator), you will need the lectric limited conversion kit ($15.00). For a non-original car I highly recommend it. After I installed A/C last year with 2 auxiliary cooling fans my system was discharging terribly at an idle. With the upgrade, the problem is solved.
Roy
If you really want a set of brights that you cannot out drive at any speed, install a set of 4537 landing light`s in the high beam slots. Guaranteed instant daylight. I have a set in my Duece since nearly new.
What is normal on our vettes? 1 wire or 3 wire? did the chrome alternator come in either format? And how has the finish held up?
Any downside at all to this mod ?
If you really want a set of brights that you cannot out drive at any speed, install a set of 4537 landing light`s in the high beam slots. Guaranteed instant daylight. I have a set in my Duece since nearly new.
PS, I also had them in my 63.
interesting idea; I have a plane which has two landing lights. It's common knowledge with airplane owners that regular landing lights run very hot at taxi speeds and most pilots don't run both at the same time because of the heat and the load at slow taxi or idle rpm speeds becuase of the load draw. There are some very high end new lights which cost in the hundreds of dollar range, but given that lights on cars are used possibly for long periods of time, and some times at idle, I'm wondering how your set up is working out for you, long term.
What is normal on our vettes? 1 wire or 3 wire? did the chrome alternator come in either format? And how has the finish held up?
Any downside at all to this mod ?
Mine was 63 amp for AC. With the mod you will use 3 wire. It will regualte the voltage better. You will remove your old regulator and save it with the old alternator. Takes 5 min to do and charges better. I run an electric fan with no problem. The finish looks good and so far no problems, only downside I can think of is if you worry about points.
My lights are also brighter at idle.