tore apart my original 327/300 to turn it into a 383. the machine shop guys where, dude ( maybe they didn't say dude.) if you kill this block you will be sorry. I know but try finding these old blocks. so i am whining about it to a coworker who owns a 67. He tells me he has a 327 he rebuilt but it blew oil right away. I remember the story when it happened. he just said the hell with it, pulled the 327 ( a non # s matching vette engine ) and stuck in a crate motor. he tells me he will sell my the fresh, oil blower for $1000. jeez, another engine. still all the internels are fresh, the block has been done. maybe i should use that block for a 383. use the new reconditioned parts to rebuild my #s 327 for later. what do you think ?

 

I am not really numbers matching knid of guy but if your engine is, I would pull it and put it in the garage. Then buy a 383 from one of the engine suppliers. Maybe post a request for recommendations on 383 suppliers on the Forum.

 

I've had my eye on one of these "Stump Pullers."

NAL-12499101 $4,095.95
Estimated Ship Date: Tomorrow
Application Suggested Parts Warranty Show All

Brand: GM Performance Parts
Product Line: GM Performance Parts HT 383 C.I.D. 340 HP Engine Assemblies
Engine Assembly Style: Crate motor
Assembled: Yes
Engine Balance: External
Intake Manifold Included: Yes
Cylinder Heads Included: Yes
Carburetor Included: No
Distributor Included: No
Oil Pan Included: Yes
Valve Covers Included: Yes
Timing Cover Included: Yes
Water Pump Included: Yes
Harmonic Balancer Included: Yes
Flexplate Included: No
Flywheel Included: No
Air Cleaner Included: No
Spark Plugs Included: No
Spark Plug Wires Included: No
Computer Included: No
Wiring Harness Included: No
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece
Quantity: Sold individually.

Engine Assembly, Crate Engine, Chevy 383, 340 hp, Vortec Heads, Each

Specially tuned for torque, the all new HT 383 delivers great power in a small block package for your truck or street rod. These GM Performance Parts 383 c.i.d. 4-bolt main, cast iron engines, have approximately 9.1: 1 compression with 340 hp at 4,500 rpm, and 435 ft./lbs. of torque at 4,000 rpm. Included with these engines are forged 4340 steel externally balanced crankshafts, 5.7 in. powdered metal connecting rods, hypereutectic dished top pistons with offset pins. Hydraulic billet steel roller camshafts are installed with .431 in. intake lift, .451 in. exhaust lift and duration at .050 in. for intake is 196 and 206 for exhaust with lobe centerline at 109 degrees. Stamped steel self aligning rocker arms with 1.5:1 ratios are installed on the Vortec cylinder heads. All aluminum dual plane dual flange intakes with external EGR provisions, cast iron long leg, standard "V" belt rotation water pumps with 1979-86 power steering pump boss. Valve measurements are 1.940 in. for intake and 1.50 in. for exhaust. Additional items installed with these crate engines are 8 in. harmonic balancers, 12 3/4 automatic flexplates, 4 quart oil pans with windage trays, painted valve covers with oil cap, grommets, provisions for PCV and breathers. Composite front timing covers, brass freeze plugs, engine oil dipstick and tube for passenger side location. Spark plugs come installed along with fuel pump block off plates and Engine lift tabs for easy installs. These HT 383 are ideal replacements for any 1978 and older carbureted engines or off road applications.

 

Do I understand the situation correctly? You want to take your numbers matching correct motor and make a stroker motor out of it?

Christ, I can't even respond to this level of insanity.

I opologize for the above comment if I have misread your intentions. However if I have not then I offer it as tough love buddy.

Ralph

 

I agree with the above folks.

I think I would just keep the original engine and put in a crate motor. If you want some real torque, a 383 is well worth it. There are many reputable suppliers that build, run and test the engine before it's shipped. Drop it in and you will be smiling.

 

This is the one I want. The cheapest I found it was $4600. Not much more than the 340 horse one your looking at .

Isn't that 300 horse 327 a small journal motor? Can they grind the mains on a 400 crank that small? (and still be strong).

 

Sorry this is a no-brainer....Pull the original engine, pickle it and put it in the corner. Buy/build your torque monster engine and have a ball with it. When it comes time to sell your car, the original engine will allow you to get much more than the cost of the replacement engine.

By the way, can you make a 383 out of a 327? Always thought you had to start with a 350....Best of Luck!

Smoothy58

 

That was my understanding too!

I think you can probably build a 383 stroker pretty cheaply using regular GM parts where possible. I'm certainly no expert or even close, but scrounge up a good 350 block (probably doesn't even have to be a 4 bolt), and some 64cc heads to pocket port. Pick up a Performer manifold on eBay, a new carb, they buy the needed crank, rods and pistons. I'm sure Duke can recommend an OEM cam that will make a fine daily driver out of it too!

I've thought about pulling my original L79 and storing the short block only and using everything else with a block I build up myself. Of course I could be all wet about how much you can save, never priced any of the unique parts required. I might just get an education on that right here!

 

my originial motor is already out. i built an RPM head, cam and intake motor and am using that now. Not enough get up and go for me. so i decided to build something bigger but disguese it. well i guess the consensis is buy my buddies motor. i can always sell the aluminium head 327 I have in there now later. I like building motors.i oalready bought a set of RHS iron heads and a performer RPM manifold I am machining to disgues the engine as a stock 65 327. I want a block with the draft tube. yes you can buy a small journel 383 crank from speedomotive off their shelf or almost any of them will make one for you. As for the originial block, i mean, who here has actually broken a block on a street car?

 

The 327 has the same 4" bore as the 350, but the main journal diameter is smaller, except I think on the 67 ? and newer 327's.

 

1968 327 was the first large journal.
1967 and earlyier were all small journal.

 

By the way, can you make a 383 out of a 327? Always thought you had to start with a 350....Best of Luck!

Smoothy58[/QUOTE]


Not true. In 1968 I bought a 389 CI 327 engine out of Tony feil's (well known racer/ engine builder on the east coast/ NJ ) gasser called the 'Super grape' .

It had a off set welded crank and a over bore. I guess with the introduction of BBC and the NEW 350 SBC engines this engine was old news.

It ran like "a raped ape" His quote.

Of course today you do not have weld and cut a 3/4" stroker crank, just simply order one.

I still have the 462 radically ported heads it ran, if you are interested.

vetrod62

 

I broke several

 

well yea , but a quick look at your Bio might explain that
well I tore that poor old dogged out POS down last night.
pictures here if you care.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1370352
can't really see myself rebuilding it just to fill it with deisel and bag it in the garage. maybe I'll just buy the other one.tear it down and save the good stuff in a box with the #s block and heads for whenever i get ready to sell my car. build the 383 out of my friends 327, then sell off the current 327 engine i am running. My garage is already full of parts and a BBC blower motor for my long term vette pro street project. worse problems to deal with i guess.

 

Well, what is the difference between a .030" (or .060" for second go around) overbore matching number rebuild and a 383 stroker modification rebuild?

They are both rebuilds,and have non standard, non-original pistons and rings. Does the addition of a different crankshaft somehow make it bad vs good?

Doug

 

Thats exactly what I'm doing right now. Numbers matched '67 327/383 stroker with a custom forged 4340 lightweight crank with Crower Stroker rods, ported heads, only I'm using the Edelbrock RPM manifold with the oil fill tube and the water bypass drilled out, since the '490 is a bit restrictive.

 

I agree with Ralph (Black60) You will be sorry if you butcher this piece of automotive history. It seems to me that there are enough engines laying around that you could use one of them and save this engine for someone down the road that would appreciate it for what it is ... Ed

 

It's simply a rotating assembly change. What's the difference between driving it built as a 327 or 383 ...none. I have the 327 rotating assembly as well, I can simply swap it out any time I want. They are both .030" over and internally balanced, they both use the same flywheel and harmonic dampner as well.

 

Well my coworker is throwing in a set of roller rockers, a dampner and a manifold as well. At this point i can probably part out what i don't need and make money considering that this block has already been machined and mine still needs to be. Still I really agree with Scot on this. I don't see what the big deal is. Scott, I also purchesed an RPM manifold and am having the fill tube area opened up. What do you mean by the water bypass. Is the the taped hole in the front face of the stock manifold? Are you just pluging the RPM current hole with a pipe plug.

 

The bypass boss on the RPM isn't opened up. It's just a boss, like the fill tube. For the L-79 motor the water bypass from the top of the water pump feeds into the front of the intake, I just need to drill and tap the RPM manifold for it.

Sounds like a good deal on the motor and parts. I suspect the oil burner issue may be a mismatch of the heads and intake manifold not sealing, kind of common on engines that may have seen too much machine work, heads, block or intake not machined to match.