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Alternator Replacement

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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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Default Alternator Replacement

I plan on replacing my alternator tonight. What size output should I get? I currently have a 37 amp. If I'm idleing in traffic with my foot on the brake, the gauge will discharge. When I get the rpm's up, the needle moves, but not too much. I'll be adding a stereo in a week or two and I want to have enough power. I'm thinking replacing it with something around 60 amp. I'm looking to improve performance, but not effect any other components. I don't want to upgrade any wireing, etc. Just looking for something that hopefully will be quick and easy.
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Go ahead and upgrade. Your car could have come with a 61 amp alternator with the stock harness. The more power accesories, the higher amp alternator the factory installed.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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There is a 94 amp OEM alternator that will fit exactly as it has the same case as a 37 and 61 amp alternator. Just make sure it`s clocked correctly. No one will ever know the difference except you and the person you buy it from.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
There is a 94 amp OEM alternator that will fit exactly as it has the same case as a 37 and 61 amp alternator. Just make sure it`s clocked correctly. No one will ever know the difference except you and the person you buy it from.
Source for that? P/N?
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Default Clocked Correctly?

When you say "Clocked Correctly" what do you exaclty mean.

Thanks
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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I was looking for my old books, and cannot find them. However, you can go to most any rebuilder and have one made for 94 amps.

Clocked correctly means that the 12 volt plug in the back of the case is in the right position. Probably at either 3 or 12. Easy to change however to the correct position.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Stoopid question from a non C2 owner: did the early C2's have ammeters or voltmeters?

Thanks,
Doug
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 02:50 PM
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The last Corvette "ammeter" that carried main power current was in 1962. Beginning in '63, it became a "Battery" gauge, which is actually a sensitive voltmeter that reads the voltage difference between the battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid and the screw connection at the horn relay and displays the difference as amps - just shows whether current is flowing TO or FROM the battery.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by North of 40
When you say "Clocked Correctly" what do you exaclty mean.

Thanks
That's the position of the field terminal/spade connections in relation to the top mounting as you look at the alt. from the rear.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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If you go beyond the 61amp alt that came with A-C cars, I would put a 60 amp fuse on the alt red wire to protect the harness. Here's a pic with 2 60 amp fuses that run off my 135amp alternator.

I got the $79.99 135 amp alt here--->http://www.4alterstart.com/pages/sto...putalternators
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:47 PM
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From: Scranton Pennsylvania
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Bought a 61 amp from Advance Auto for about $40. The install went OK. It was hard getting the belt back on. I think that because the engine isn't original, the previous owner fabricated a bracket that wouldn't allow me to slide the alternator forward enough to get the belt on easily.When I started the car, I heard a loud clicking noise. Shut down immediately. Re-ckecked everything, fired it up again- no noise. I hope everything is OK. I have to go to the dealer that I bought it from tomorrow. I'll have his mechanic check my work as well as test the alternator. Thanks for the replies.
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