Am going to try to lube my bouncing speedo cable. Can't get my hands in back of the panel, so can I remove it from the transmission end? Are there any pitfalls to prepare for? I've read the posts about using the 1/4 / 20 bolts to support the panel if necessary.

Also which plug is considered #1 on the 327/300 so I can check the timing? Thanks again!

 

Speedo cable has to be removed from the speedo end and should only be lubricated with graphite.

# one plug is the front plug on the driver's side.

 

The best way to get at the "head end" of the speedo cable is to go to the harware store and get two 1/4 x 20 x 6 inch bolts. Remove the two end screws from the dash and replace them with the 6 inch bolts, then remove the rest of the dash screws. Now the dash will "slide" out so you can get your hands in behind the dash to disconnect the end of the speedo cable.

I have found that lubing the cable is of little help, over the years the grease in the cable gets hard causing the cable to bind up and unwind which cause the speedo needle to jump. For around $30 you can replace the speedo cable.

 

Don't you need to lube new cables before installation? And if so, what lube do y'all use?

 

Engine oil works the best for me, grease gets too stiff in the winter. (Yes, I drive mine in the winter.)

Put 1/4" or so of oil in 3# coffee can, spiral feed the cable core into coffee can and then feed core into cable housing out of can. Don't spill any oil on your carpet.

 

I am still unable to reach the rear of the instrument panel to disconnect the tach and speedo cables (the knurled nut end fittings). I've read to remove the dash or remove the instrument panel itself. It is SO tight. This could give me a great deal of headaches, cut fingers, worn patience, a drinking problem, etc. Any great ideas or perhaps even good progression pictures of how it's done.
I don't want to have to bring it to Corvette Mike in Orange County ($$) to have it done.
Thanks

 

Did you remove the drivers seat ? That and a old pillow on the floor will giv you more working room .

 

Does the steering column need to be removed when using the "guide bolts" to pull the cluster out a few inches?

 

My two cents, Put some books or something like that on the floor that come up to the sill height. Put a piece of carpet or a towel or something like that on top of the books. Now your back will not have to bend over the sill.. I used to use phone books, they don't exist anymore. The directory in your cell phone will not work. Lowering the steering column will help but is probably not fully necessary, Neither is removing the seat. Doing both of those things will help though, especially if you are ancient or hefty. The long screw trick is the way to go.

 

That's the way I did it last time I removed the instrument cluster on the '66. It really wasn't that difficult to remove the steering column.
I lubed the speedo cable on my '67 by removing the bottom connection at the trans and hanging the cable upside down from the hood. On the '67, it is more difficult to access the speedo and tach cables than on the 65-66. Seems like there are more things in the way.
I have found the biggest source of needle bounce is having an inner cable that is too long. I trimmed about 1/4" off the transmission end of the cable to eliminate the bounce, after lubing it didn't improve things. The indicator that the cable was too long was the difficulty in attaching the threaded end snug, at the transmission.

 

I am a 73 year old man without too many back issues. With the seat removed, I did not have too much difficulty unscrewing the speedo cable from the instrument on my 67 with the dash in place. If it had been on greater than hand tight it could have a bigger issue. If you need to pull the dash out somewhat on long screws, unscrew the escutcheon between the steering column and dash first and maybe loosen the steering column attaching bolts. But the column does not need to be removed.

 

I use this:

https://agscompany.com/product/kable...card-hardware/

Consider one of these also:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81153/10002/-1

Live well,

SJW

 

I have to mention that I was able to remove my speedo cable for lubing on my '67 coupe w/air without touching the dash cluster. I used a flat blade screwdriver to 'bump' the knurled nut loose on the speedo and unscrew it from a narrow access point just under the dash. Once it was unscrewed I pushed the assembly through the hole in the firewall (from under the dash) into the engine compartment. The rubber firewall grommet popped out to allow space for the nut to clear the hole, but was easily put back in place later. Once the assembly is in the engine compartment, you have complete access to remove the cable for lubing or remove the cable/housing assembly for replacement. When re-installing, push the assembly straight through the hole in the firewall and let the cable seat into the speedo. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the nut threads started to re-tighten the speedo nut. I used a plastic channel that I had laying around and pushed it through the firewall hole with the cable inside the channel. I had a helper lightly press on the channel to hold the nut against the speedo as I threaded it back on the speedo. Hope this helps.

 

When I replaced my cable I purchased it from this great vendor it arrived pre-lubed:

John Rullo
Deluxe Speedometer Services
2330 S. Kalamath St. Unit A
Denver, CO 80223

1-303-629-6958
1-888-907-6505

https://deluxespeedometer.com

I went through 2 new POS cables from Paragon, now into Corvette Central, before using John. Great product, fair price, quick delivery too.

Don