SB Engine pull....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
SB Engine pull....
Well, I finally got around to my cylinder leakdown test and it looks like it's motor rebuild time! Several cylinders had 70%+ leakage rates. Seems the rings are gone.
Ok...seems there is at least three alternatives for us home garage types when yanking a motor.
1) The shop manual recommends leaving the trans and bellhousing in the car.
2) A national car rag suggested pulling the 4 sp trans first and then the motor.
3) Several forum members suggested pulling the motor from the side, with the 4sp attached and the aid of a tilter.
I was hoping to utilize my Kwiklift and avoid the perils of the jack stands (given my advanced age), but looks like the fender height with the car up on the Kwiklift will be problematic. getting the motor to clear the fender (...especially If I pull the engine and trans together).
Anyhow.... please weigh-in with some details on what procedure works best other than pulling the body (did that last time).
Thanks as always...
JimV
Ok...seems there is at least three alternatives for us home garage types when yanking a motor.
1) The shop manual recommends leaving the trans and bellhousing in the car.
2) A national car rag suggested pulling the 4 sp trans first and then the motor.
3) Several forum members suggested pulling the motor from the side, with the 4sp attached and the aid of a tilter.
I was hoping to utilize my Kwiklift and avoid the perils of the jack stands (given my advanced age), but looks like the fender height with the car up on the Kwiklift will be problematic. getting the motor to clear the fender (...especially If I pull the engine and trans together).
Anyhow.... please weigh-in with some details on what procedure works best other than pulling the body (did that last time).
Thanks as always...
JimV
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 194
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Engine Removal
When I removed the 327 and reinstalled a 427 in my 67, I removed the radiator & fan, unbolted the bell housing, supported the trans, lifted the engine just enough to unbolt the motor mounts, slid it forwards to get the trans input shaft out of the pilot bearing and through the pressure plate fingers, and then lifted it straight out.
Installing the 427 was easier than I thought it was going to be--I lowered the engine into the engine compartment, lined up the trans input shaft, and gave a big push, and to my amazement, the engine slid back and everything slid into place--a one in a million shot. Bolted the motor mounts onto the block, and secured everything.
That's the easiest way to do it--Leave the trans and bell housing in the car.
Installing the 427 was easier than I thought it was going to be--I lowered the engine into the engine compartment, lined up the trans input shaft, and gave a big push, and to my amazement, the engine slid back and everything slid into place--a one in a million shot. Bolted the motor mounts onto the block, and secured everything.
That's the easiest way to do it--Leave the trans and bell housing in the car.
RON
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 8,506
Likes: 3
From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
I pulled the 327 in my 1966, with a regular ol' cherry picker. I left the transmission attached and did not use jack stands. Install was just reverse the procedure. I didn't use a tilter, had 1 other person to help guide it back in. May have been a bit easier with the tilter though.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 15,295
Likes: 2,261
From: NorCal
...one additional detail
I agree - had the sb out of my '67 the same way. I would STRONGLY recommend removing the distributer first so to avoid the possibility of hitting the firewall on the way in or out. Don't ask me how I know.................
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
with tranny....
Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
I pulled the 327 in my 1966, with a regular ol' cherry picker. I left the transmission attached and did not use jack stands. Install was just reverse the procedure. I didn't use a tilter, had 1 other person to help guide it back in. May have been a bit easier with the tilter though.
1) remove drive shaft
2) remove/disconnect trans mount bracket
3) remove/disconnect linkage
On the reinstall how did you deal with the trans linkage and trans mount bracket and drive shaft (especially if you didnt use jack stands...)
THANKS>>>>>
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
Originally Posted by Johns_65Vette
First I did this
Then this
Didn't take long...maybe about 3 or 4 hours total.
Then this
Didn't take long...maybe about 3 or 4 hours total.
Did you pull the trans prior to the motor, or did you leave the trans and bellhousing installed?
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
From: Horsetown USA (Norco) Kaleeforkneeah
I left it all together. Didn't even pull the distributor. I only unbolted the driveshaft from the slip yoke. I didn't remove it entirely. I left the slip yoke in the trans, to keep the fluid in. All I did was remove the shifter handle (hurst shifter).
I hooked the pull chain to the intake manifold bolt holes just behind the exhaust crossover. That seemed to be a perfect balance point.
I hooked the pull chain to the intake manifold bolt holes just behind the exhaust crossover. That seemed to be a perfect balance point.
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Race Director
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From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
I have done it both ways, several times each.
depends on whther you want to do some tranny work, or cleanup, or such also,and how many people you have to help you.
On a removal, you can pretty much do it all by yourself by separating the engine from the trans. A reinstall that way needs two to three people, unless you are real patient and want to get up and down off the floor a lot.
Pulling and reinstalling the assembly as a package, should use two people, but it does save a lot of swearing from trying to get the trans input shaft into the clutch splines during reinstall under the car.
Removal and reinstall as a package does increase the possiblity of body and other component damage on the car.
Doug
depends on whther you want to do some tranny work, or cleanup, or such also,and how many people you have to help you.
On a removal, you can pretty much do it all by yourself by separating the engine from the trans. A reinstall that way needs two to three people, unless you are real patient and want to get up and down off the floor a lot.
Pulling and reinstalling the assembly as a package, should use two people, but it does save a lot of swearing from trying to get the trans input shaft into the clutch splines during reinstall under the car.
Removal and reinstall as a package does increase the possiblity of body and other component damage on the car.
Doug
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 818
Likes: 1
From: Bonner Springs Kansas... pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. Hay...I know that guy!
Originally Posted by tuxnharley
I agree - had the sb out of my '67 the same way. I would STRONGLY recommend removing the distributer first so to avoid the possibility of hitting the firewall on the way in or out. Don't ask me how I know................. 
Been there done that.
It was a good idea at the time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 3
From: Kingston, TN
St. Jude Donor '06
Just reinstalled a 327 in a 63 SWC. Put engine/trans in as a unit. Used a tilter from the front. Removed the tilter handle and used an impact to turn it. Left driveshaft in the car. Left shifter on trans, just put it in 4th gear. It's close but goes with no problem. Much easier with a helper on the bottom side.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
got a plan....
Sounds like...
Remove radiator, shroud, distributor...
PULL...leave bellhousing and tranny IN until motor is out....and see if I can get a high-lift long-reach crane so I can keep the car up on the Kwiklift.
INSTALL...(jack stands) one piece using tilter with linkage (4th gear) and slip yoke installed...
I still wonder about linkage and trans mount bracket clearance issues however.
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Remove radiator, shroud, distributor...
PULL...leave bellhousing and tranny IN until motor is out....and see if I can get a high-lift long-reach crane so I can keep the car up on the Kwiklift.
INSTALL...(jack stands) one piece using tilter with linkage (4th gear) and slip yoke installed...
I still wonder about linkage and trans mount bracket clearance issues however.
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
From: Horsetown USA (Norco) Kaleeforkneeah
Originally Posted by Talisman51
I still wonder about linkage and trans mount bracket clearance issues however.
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Talisman51
Sounds like...
Remove radiator, shroud, distributor...
PULL...leave bellhousing and tranny IN until motor is out....and see if I can get a high-lift long-reach crane so I can keep the car up on the Kwiklift.
INSTALL...(jack stands) one piece using tilter with linkage (4th gear) and slip yoke installed...
I still wonder about linkage and trans mount bracket clearance issues however.
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Remove radiator, shroud, distributor...
PULL...leave bellhousing and tranny IN until motor is out....and see if I can get a high-lift long-reach crane so I can keep the car up on the Kwiklift.
INSTALL...(jack stands) one piece using tilter with linkage (4th gear) and slip yoke installed...
I still wonder about linkage and trans mount bracket clearance issues however.
Thank you to all who shared their experiences...!
JimV
JimV
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 5
From: Wheaton IL
Originally Posted by C2BOB
Pull the fan and pulley off the waterpump but don't remove the shroud or radiator. Isn't necessary. Getting the clutch hub to accept the transmission input shaft going back in is a little fiddly. Make sure the clutch is well aligned (I use an input shaft stolen from another gearbox). Be patient and remember that you may need to turn the crank a bit to get the splines to engage.
Jim - I did the removal with my 65 about 2' off the ground and it was too high and things were a little rough becuase I tried w/o removing the radiator. Bad idea - good thing I was getting a new one becuase i chewed it up pretty good.
The replacement was done with the front on jackstands - just enough for me to get underneath with a creeper to manipulate the tailshaft housing in place. With the tilter, the end of the transmission will slide in UNDER the transmission mount. No fear though, you can just switing it around into place. While you have the tranny out you can clean it up and give it a new seal.
Brian
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 8,506
Likes: 3
From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
I did mine much like Johns65vette. Removed shroud, radiatior, overflow tank. Left the dist. in. Removed shifter and had one person help guide it, while I worked the cherry picker. It was fairly easy...I left the slip in the trans. and the driveshaft in the car.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 18,191
Likes: 145
From: Snake handler
The issue with coming at it from the front is that the nose on these things is so long the cherry picker hits the front of the car - unless you have a very large cherry picker. I find that removing a front wheel and going in from the side is better.
Also, I would remove the radiator - it is too easy to smash and break off the overflow nipple on the top of the radiator and if you do you are screwed. Radiators go in and out easy and they cost $500 so why take the risk?
Also, you don't have to lift the front of the car very much just enough to get the right angle - a tilter is really helpful.
Good Luck!
Also, I would remove the radiator - it is too easy to smash and break off the overflow nipple on the top of the radiator and if you do you are screwed. Radiators go in and out easy and they cost $500 so why take the risk?
Also, you don't have to lift the front of the car very much just enough to get the right angle - a tilter is really helpful.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
nice thought...but....
Originally Posted by 56chevy
talisman
back the car on the kwiklift. it makes the pull SOOOOO much easier.
You can lower and raise the rear of the lift, which is now the front of the car.
Try it
back the car on the kwiklift. it makes the pull SOOOOO much easier.
You can lower and raise the rear of the lift, which is now the front of the car.
Try it
I will try it "brokeback" style on the install!!!!!!
Thanks....