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Rear Trailing Arm Play?

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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:44 PM
  #1  
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Default Rear Trailing Arm Play?

Just wondering how much lateral play the trailing arms should have? I had all my rear suspension out, except the trailing arms. So, it was just the trailing arm, and the front bushings in place. I grabbed the trailing arm, and moved it up and down, and sided to side, to check the bushings. It moved freely up and down, and made no noise. I then moved it side to side, but it only moved about a 1/2 inch in the rear, and up by the bushing it moved very little, but there was some play. Should this be tight side to side, so tight that you could not move it? I understand the bushing is rubber, and some play is expected, and I think the play is normal for a rubber mount!

Here is a pic of the trailing arm bushing, this is the driver's side, and note there is a small piece of rubber that is separating. Both sides had the same lateral play, and moved freely up and down.

Driver's side


Another Driver's Side


Passenger Side


Another Passenger Side
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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Here is my rebuilt half shafts. I removed them, dissasembled them, and sand blasted them. Then gave them a coat of "Cast Blast". Then took them to Drive Line Services here in town, and they installed 4 new non-Zerk Spicer U-Joints. Then Ballanced Them. Took more weight then I thought.

I also cleaned the spindal flange mounting surface, so the half shaft flange would seat up nicely.

I took my thread tap and chased the threads on the spindal flange. I reconditioned the bolts, and did the same to the top U-Joint straps.
I took some scotch brite pads to the diff yokes so the joints would seat up nicely.







Lower Shock mount. I blasted them, and then painted them with cast blast. The shiny part is anti sieze were the strut rods and shock mounts.



New QA-1 shocks the fronts are on, and the rears are going on tonight.


Almost Done


I installed the spring by mounting it in place, and snugging the bolts up by hand. Then I used a jack on each outboard side of the spring and loaded it up. Then tightened the bolts.

Mark

Last edited by ghostrider20; Jun 2, 2006 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 09:51 AM
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From: DAVIE/FORT LAUDERDALE FL
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Your trailing arm bushings are WASTED! Pull the arms and you will see how bad they really are and how much flex will occur while driving.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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Thanks Ken.

I had the rear alignment done a when I bought the car, and it was dead on. I never had any "Rear Wobble or Wondering". That piece of rubber is FOD, not part of the bushing. I pulled it out freely with a long needle nose.

The bushings seem intact, am I missing something? Is it the lateral play that should not be there? They are rubber mounted; shouldn't there be some side to side play?

Mark
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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One indicator of really worn rear trailing arm bushings is when you accelerate hard in first gear without spinning the tires - did the rear end seem to swing out or steer the car to the side? If so - they need replacing.

Dan
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Nope, nothing of the sort, nice and sturdy. Just checking it out now that I have most of the suspension off. I figured it would be a good time to check there overall condition since they were the only thing left attaching the trailing arms to the car.

Mark
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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I just replaced mine. There was not question, they were shot. They weren't replaced correctly by the previous owner. Half the shims fell out which caused the car to wonder all over when I hit the gas. I replaced them with the poly kit from VBP. I also used their shim kit. I had to remove everything except for the half shafts. Anyway, what a difference.

LINK
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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From: DAVIE/FORT LAUDERDALE FL
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The rusty condition of the arm makes me suspect of the condition, plus the pics are hard to see. If only the bolt through the arm is holding the arms on, I would remove it to inspect it better and also look at the condition of the trailing arm itself-make sure it is not rusting from the inside and swelling.
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