Need to replace the right front rubber brake line on a 63 with drums. Replaced the cylinder last year and the rubber hose is now leaking, coming from the crimped portion. Bought a new line, U-clamps, and copper washer at lunch. In order to replace the rubber brake line, is the cylinder going to have to come back off? Or is it possible to just unscrew the brake line from the steel line and then just unscrew at the cylinder? I plan on rebleeding the system. Do I need to drain the system first before replacing the rubber brake line? Meaning if I don't, will brake fluid come spewing out when the rubber line is disconnected? Does anyone by any chance have an internet site that provides step by step procedure on replacing the rubber brake hose?

Thanks....

 

Should be able to disconnect the line at the steel line, and then remove it from the cylinder (assuming that you can disconnect it at the steel line, since they tend to get "difficult" with age - don't we all!). Might need to spray some PB Blaster (or your favorite spray penatrating oil) on the line junction before starting the process a day or so before.

I normally keep rubber caps to block the fluid from draining from the line and hoses ends. Probably could use clean golf tees to do the same thing, just don't break off the tee while it is in the end of the line or hose.

Do not drain the system first. Only would make bleeding that more difficult, and waste fluid besides.

You need a shop manual for procedures.

Plasticman

 

w/Plasticman.

No need to drain/clean the system as you did that last year. Be ready to stop the fluid (as per pman) and bleed as necessary. I find the old single-drum-brake system very easy to service. That said, I am converting my car to a dual MC/PB.....keeping the drum brakes. (cheap and easy to work/repair).

 

"Should be". They can be a SOB. Be sure to use a flare nut wrench. Chuck

 

Thanks for the responses guys. Tried tinkering around with it last night. When I try to turn the nut on the hose (weird looking nut by the way, it's only flat on two opposite sides) that is attached to the steel brake line, the steel brake line starts moving. I'm afraid i'm going to break it. Sorry for being ignorant here, but I've never done brake hoses before and I don't want to "interrupt" something I'm not supposed to. I have the shop manual, but it's not too descriptive. Should I be holding the small hex nut that the steel brake line goes into while I'm trying to loosen the weird looking nut on the brake hose? What I see is the steel brake line that goes into a small hex nut, then I see threads, then the U-clip, then the tab that is attached to the body. Then underneath the tab, I see another horseshoe looking clip that surrounds the end of the rubber brake hose, then the weird looking bolt, and then the rubber hose that goes to the wheel cylinder. I'll take a picture tonight and post up. Thanks for your patience guys.

 

You should not try turning the hose. Hold the hose from rotating at all with the wrench of your choice (you are replacing it anyway) while trying to rotate the steel line hex nut with a tubing wrench, not a 2 sided open end wrench - unless your very lucky, a 2 sided wrench will round off the hex on the steel line nut, and then you have to resort to sterner measures that will eventually result in replacement of the steel line).

Tubing wrenches (also known as "Flare Nut" wrenches per Chuck G.) are available at Sears, etc., and are 5 sided with an opening to go over/around the line. The 5 sides give you a better chance of freeing up the hex nut without rounding it off.

The nut "should" break free of the steel line and rotate out of the hose end. If you see the steel line trying to rotate, then you are doing something wrong. Use pentatrating oil on the steel line / hex nut as needed - which is most of the time.

Knock / pry the steel Horseshoe (brake line retaining clip) clip out to free up the tubing / hose assembly. It is normally pretty easy to remove with a large screwdriver under the right angle tab.

Plasticman

 

It's good to ask for help on the brake lines as they are an area where it's common to have trouble with old cars. It's also an area where opinions differ on what works best (so here is another opinion).

The flare nut on the end of the steel line "should" break free, but on old assemblies they sometimes do not break free without twisting the steel line. This will make an otherwise good-day go sour.

The flex line is already junk, and it is disposable (trash). Cut the flex line. Pinch the lose end of the flex line with a pair if vice grips to minimize fluid loss (if needed). If the flare nut on the steel line even appears to be stuck do not force it. The chance of rounding off the nut is high, and the risk of twisting the steel brake line is also high.

Use a flare nut wrench on the steel line flare nut to hold it steady (backed up against the frame or other support). Run a wrench up the cut flex line to allow you to get a quality hold on the flex line flats (or to use a box end wrench if it has a hex nut). Twist away on the flex line while holding the flare nut on the steel line secure. Holding the flare nut secure usually saves the flare nut from getting rounded off.

If the flare nut is still at risk of rounding off (slipping inside the flare wrench), careful use of a vice grip to hold the flare nut secure is an option (care to avoid rounding or gouging the hex nut).

When you twist off the flex line, the horseshoe clip that holds the line to the chassis bracket will usually twist out of the bracket (it's held in a slot on the line end). Just be careful to catch the clip & washer when it comes loose so you can reuse the parts. These clips can be straightened, or replacements can be found in the "help section at the parts store (or from one of the corvette part suppliers).

I find leaving the brake line attached to the chassis helps the mechanic hold the flare nut on the steel line secure. Anything that helps the mechanic to prevent rounding or damaging the flare nut is a benefit. Leaving the bracket & clip in place, with the hose secure until the flare nut is cracked loose, is like having a steady third hand.

The brake lines should also be replaced in pairs. When one suffers wear they are all suspect. Do not hesitate to flush a small bottle of two of brake fluid through the system when you are done.

Good luck.

 

All of the above suggestions are great. I found that working on these old cars requires soaking the joint with Bead Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Soak the area and use a wire brush for cleaning off rust. Soak again. Don't underestimate this stuff. If it would only work on my frozen joints. Good luck. Jerry

 

Thanks again for the responses...much appreciated. The below pic is what I have to work with. So what I'm hearing is to hold the somewhat rounded nut below the tab that is attached to the body, so the rubber hose will not twist, while loosening the small hex bolt where the steel brake line feeds into at the top? Then after the small hex bolt is loosened, remove the U-clip right right below the small hex nut and the brake line should just fall right out? Thanks...sorry for it to be so trivial, I just don't want to break something.

 

Yes, that is correct. Your line and hex nut look pretty good and rust free, so it should come apart OK. Note that the hex nut rotates on the steel line. The steel line has a flare on the end, and the hex nut bears on this end when it is tightened into the hose end which has an internal flared seat (making a leak free / pressure proof connection). So adding some penatrating oil to the junction of the line and nut is a "good thing". Also use a tubing wrench on that hex nut (unless you are feeling extremely lucky).

Once the hex nut has been just loosened, you can remove the clip. Then fully remove the hose by loosening the hex nut completely, and then cap off the steel line to prevent loss of fluid. Cap the hose end as well if you want (keeps it from making a mess on the floor), but you will be removing it completely anyway.

Remove the hose from the wheel cylinder, and then reverse the process when you reassemble, and then bleed the system.

Plasticman