I'm building up a new engine and find my crank doesn't have a pilot bearing needed for manual transmissions.

The local auto parts had a part, but I find it's made of steel - not the oil saturated bronze bushing like was available.

Should I use this steel part or look for a bronze one.

Any tricks on installing the bushing? The crankshaft is out of the block on a table. I can't seem to get it started easily, but haven't really tried very hard - just sort of checked the fit and some light taping with a small hammer.

 

we used to put bushing in the coke machine for a couple hours to shrink it . if you have freezer in kitchen that should help . . bc

 

Bronze.

Measure the bore of the crank and the o.d. of the bushing. You don't want more than .001"-.002 interfearence fit. A lot of aftermarket parts have fit issues.

 

These two have been verified as being the correct Oilite bronze material, and dimensionally correct (1.094" OD, 0.594" ID):

GM #10125896

BCA (Federal-Mogul) #PB-656-HD

 

A pilot bushing driver, is the best way to install the bushing. You may be able to rent one of these at an auto parts store.

In any case, you don't want to beat directly on the bushing. A piece of 1" round bar stock, about a foot long, will probably work.

Doug

 

s.o.p. used to be to walk over to the bench grinder and ''machine'' the leading edge to a taper about 1/8'' long @ abt 10*...used an old tranny input shaft as a driver....occasionally would encounter a crank with a very oversized pilot bushing hole--there was a special pilot bushing, o.d. about 2'' for those (supposedly those were oem powerglide cranks)

 

I would not use anything other then these part #'s. The other bushings can have friction/stiction problems and can make the nastiest squeeling/howling noise you can imagine when the clutch is depressed.

 

OK, here's the plan.

Obtain the chevrolet part number JohnZ and C2BOB recommend.

Use one of the old input shafts I have around here as a driver (that's what I used before, years ago)

Chill the bushing in the refrigerator.

Clean up the bore in the crank and check the diameter if I can get a caliper in there.

Install the bushing.

If I have any trouble I'll get a driver made up at on a friends lathe, and sand paper the diameter a half a thousand or so or add a bit of a taper to the leading edge as suggested.

I don't want any squeal which is the first thing I thought about when I looked at the steel bushing.

 

Ned, do a search for my recent posts, I too just went through this. Here is what I would do.
1) measure the ID of your pilot bushing hole. If you have to, make a plug gage from an old (or new) pilot bushing so you know what the true ID of it is.
2) Get a NAPA pilot bushing, part number 615-1161. It is the the old original Oillite bronze material that is porous and is impregnated with oil so it self lubricates.
3) Sorry, I can't comment on Johns recommended bushings. I did not test those part numbers. But I did find that most pilot bushings I tested were only concentric in the .002/.003 range. This includes bushings and also the GM pilot bearing. The NAPA is concentric within .001.
4) Mic the OD of your tranny shaft. It should be a .001 to a .003 clearance fit into your pilot bushing as installed. Note "as installed"
5) If you are lucky, you can install your NAPA bushing as is and it will work fine. But at least test fit your tranny shaft, or a precision ground plug gauge into the installed pilot bushing to check for fit. You can get a plug gauge that simulates your tranny shaft from Vermont Gage Co. for $3, available at your local industrial hardware store or direct.
6) If you find your "press fit" is too tight and is collapsing your bushings' ID, then you can sand down its OD in a drill press to achieve a perfect .001 to .003 press fit.
7) Now that your bushing is correctly installed, I put a small dab of high temp grease in it to help with installation and break in. Others will differ on this step, but it has alway worked for me. Note "small dab".

Hope this helps! I went through the whole learning curve when sucessfully installing my TKO 600 into an original 1957 283 Powerglide car last month.

 

[QUOTE=CJS]7) Now that your bushing is correctly installed, I put a small dab of high temp grease in it to help with installation and break in. Others will differ on this step, but it has alway worked for me. Note "small dab".
QUOTE]

You are right, I will respectfully disagree: Grease "soap" (the carrier for the oil in the grease) will clog the pores in the Oilite bushing, preventing the bushing's integral oil from reaching the surface of the bushing and therefore will not properly lube the input shaft. The bushings are designed to be assembled "as is", without any "extra" grease or lube. If you want, put a very light film of motor oil on the trans input shaft prior to install, but it should not be needed.

Also, when doing any grinding or machining of the bushing OD, protect the ID from dirt and grit that can get into the ID pores where it will scratch/score (damage) the input shaft and bushing. Once dirt/grit enters these pores, you might as well start all over with a new bushing.

Plasticman

 

I picked up the oilite bronze bushing at NAPA.

Installation went fine using an old Muncie input shaft.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and help.