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for something that size you will want to put down a few layers of glass matt and probably use the long haired mixed gel resin if the problem is sorta vertical (liquid resin tend to run don't ask how I know......I would also make simple wooden or plastic forms for inside and out if I were to do it again...I just did one side and it turned out a bit rough but since it was almost under the car where I was working I figured it didn't matter that much...I may go back and redo it just because...It seems plenty strong and I put an extra layer over the entire drivers floor on the outside and a thin layer on the inside to actually stiffen the floor a bit then I had to go do the other side to match because it was so much better than than it has ever been.
(my problem was more behind the clutch pedal I also fixed up a crack behind the seat on the tunnel)
I know alot of people prefer to replace panels but I think one of the nicest things about the corvette is that fiberglass is so easy to fix up.
Of course I am not doing restoration stuff just keeping a driver on the road.
My initial concern is reproducing or replacing the missing shapes and contours of the area. I think a replacement section cut for a close fit and layed in from inside covered by the carpet might produce the best look I can get. It's all in the "ideas" stage right now.
Last edited by valrico4; Jun 29, 2006 at 07:14 PM.
How about making a mold of the area (from someone's else's car, of course). I have done that a couple of times with good success and lots of foil paper and some foam or cardboard.
Islander21 .. A mold is certainly an option. But at best I hope I can lay in a proper looking press molded donor piece that looks good from the engine side and will be hidden by the carpet where the resin is used.
My initial concern is reproducing or replacing the missing shapes and contours of the area. I think a replacement section cut for a close fit and layed in from inside covered by the carpet might produce the best look I can get. It's all in the "ideas" stage right now.
Buy an old piece of glass off of ebay. Then start cutting and pasting with resin and matt. Finally follow with a skim coat of bondo and you will be good to go.
Buy an old piece of glass off of ebay. Then start cutting and pasting with resin and matt. Finally follow with a skim coat of bondo and you will be good to go.
So , what you are saying is that this particular piece of fiberglass is being reproduced and that it is common to see it on E-Bay.
Heh, looks like someone "took out" your dimmer switch, bracket and all. That's a tough one to find anywhere - you may find a much larger piece of the firewall but that will also have a bigger price tag attached to it.
I believe your best option is still a mold. Let me know if you want one, my car is completely stripped and I can actually make the part for you with a couple of layers of fiberglass matt and let you thicken it out with Kitty Hair while installing it. Here's a pic of my car on the inside and out, I marked the needed area:
I'd have to make the fiberglass mold from the inside because of the bracket on the outside. You'd then use Evercoat Kitty Hair or Glass-Cote to fill in and countour the outside. I have high def phots of that area if you need them. The total cost of doing this? You have to drive to Orlando to pick up the part! One possible problem: your 64 firewall may be a bit different than my 66's....
Islander .. the dimmer switch is hard to see in the picture but still in there. I may very well have to come see you for a mold. THANK YOU! Orlando is a quick trip for me since I'm way east of Tampa. In fact I'm heading to the Pepsi 400 in a few minutes, will pass right through the big O. I'll get back with you in a couple of weeks after I see if anyone comes up with a section.
Masking tape also works very good too. It allows you to match all the contours of the donors glass. Besure to press the edges of the tape firmly down. Also, make sure what ever material you use, don't overlap the edges of the molding material with your resin and glass. Food for thought, just in case.
Craig
BTW, car paste wax works great as a release agent for those materials that you are using for a mold. Handy for surface areas that need a little boost. Rub a little on, let it dry, just don't buff it off and just keep it on your molding material only.
Last edited by Cmacsvette; Jul 2, 2006 at 01:43 PM.