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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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Default i need help

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it's been a long time coming i cannot find in my books the sequence of which the frontend is assembled .
i need some pics...ive had enough reading for awhile
i need some pics of the spindle and the steering mechanism that bolts to the spindle .

thanks
jack
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 66jack
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

it's been a long time coming i cannot find in my books the sequence of which the frontend is assembled .
i need some pics...ive had enough reading for awhile
i need some pics of the spindle and the steering mechanism that bolts to the spindle .

thanks
jack
Do you have the Assembly Manual (AIM)? That should tell you everything you need to know. The front end is not that different from any other Chevy from about 55 to mid 70's - any decent manual will get you there.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 02:15 AM
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I got a lot of use out of my assembly manual AND factory maintenance manual when I put my chassis back together.

Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but here's a few tips from when I did mine:

When you attach the ball joint to the lower A-arm, the bolt with the "cap" goes forward.

I attached upper A-arm to the frame, then the spindle to the arm. Fully attached the lower arm with three bolts, then tried my best to seat the coil spring in the upper frame "pocket" against the stop groove (for lack of a better term). As it compresses, you may have to use a screwdriver/pry bar to insure the spring seats. Things don't quite settle in the way they look like they should, so it may take a couple of tries. I had to rotate the spring a few times to get it where it needed to be. The gap between the end of the spring and the stop is roughly 1/4" to 1/2".

I found that if you don't install the round upper A-arm bumber in the frame, you don't have to compress the spring so much in order to attach the spindle to the lower arm/ball joint. Once the engine/tranny is in and I have room, I'll put the bumpers in. I'm sure it will be a pain in the @ss, but to me it's worth it as it gave me just a little less "pucker factor" when compressing the springs.

I used a floor jack to bring the lower arm up against the spring. Had to wack the spring with a mallet a couple of times to get it to seat in the lower arm while raising. Guide the spindle over the lower a-arm ball joint and you're good to go.

Then atttach your brake heat shield and caliper mount plate & spindle arm. #3817593 is the left side & #3817594 is the right. The arm should curve down and inbd with the travel stop extension inboard.

I attached the tie-rod ends to the spindle arms, relay rod & idler arm but didn't torque anything down as I haven't received my rebuilt P/S control valve from Zip yet.......................when I called to ask if they received my core, they told me they sent the core in already, the valves have been backordered, and I'm #37 in line ?!.......but that's another story .

Hopefully you were able to get something more out of the above than just confused!!
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 03:08 AM
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I have been told / read that hitting a compressed spring with a hammer will cause it to take a "set" that is slightly shorter than original. Someone with more technical expertise might verify this.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 05:04 AM
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I used a rubber mallet, not a sledge hammer.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:24 AM
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I understand. But others might not think of it. Sorry I brought it up.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:53 AM
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Here ya go. Hope this helps.











Last edited by Corbrastang; Jul 9, 2006 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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Dont have many of the tie rod hookup, but here is what i do have.



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