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Are there any companies out there that are reproducing mid year frames. and if so are they any good are do you have to do alot of modifications on them?
I'm putting a 79 frame under mine. You have to move the body mounts though. When I'm done with it I'll let you know how bad it was. I don't think it will be though. I weld and do fabrication every day.
Pops
I'm putting a 79 frame under mine. You have to move the body mounts though. When I'm done with it I'll let you know how bad it was. I don't think it will be though. I weld and do fabrication every day.
Pops
sorry I didn't get back to your PM - I don't know why you would be MISSING mounts on your 64 - 64's actually had EXTRA mounts (don't know if yours is a vert or coupe..) What you will find out is that the entire rear end is different. If your rear kick ups are good on the 64 frame you can always section the new chassis and replace the kick ups with the 64 ones. I build a frame jig by first welding the original frame to the jig and building the fixtures around it. As I was setting the fixtures, I checked and adjusted them according to the measurements in the AIM. When everything was set up (especially the trailing arm bolt holes!) I removed the old frame, cut it in half and put the new frame in the jig lining up all the relevant bolt holes and reference holes. Then, I went about reattaching the rear - double and triple checking all tolerences and specs.
Mine fit perfectly the first time - even the bumpers lined up perfectly. A plumb bob and laser level are your friends. I even drew on the planar surface with a grease pen to create a blueprint of the frame as I worked. It was a good reference to check everything.
I over engineered the joints where the rear joined the front with some fabricated gussets - there is an extra layer of steel where the joint is now - plus I hired a journeyman welder to finish the structural welding. Can't be too safe here!
Another tip: take a square steel tube and line it up with the body mounts on the sides of the body. Mark and drill the holes so you can bolt the bar to the body using the mount holes. Then, use this "pattern" to line up the body mounts on the frame.
Very interesting .. Sounds like you definitely went the extra mile on this frame redo. A GOOD thing, to be sure! .. Perfect body/bumper mounts speaks for itself in quality of fit.
Your fitment example would make for a great pictorial .. ..
Very interesting .. Sounds like you definitely went the extra mile on this frame redo. A GOOD thing, to be sure! .. Perfect body/bumper mounts speaks for itself in quality of fit.
Your fitment example would make for a great pictorial .. ..
I have a few pictures - I wish I did a better job of documenting it. I'll see what I can find. And thanks for the acknowledgement. It was the hardest thing I ever did car-wise. But my patience payed off. The car is rock solid.
I have a few pictures - I wish I did a better job of documenting it. I'll see what I can find. And thanks for the acknowledgement. It was the hardest thing I ever did car-wise. But my patience payed off. The car is rock solid.
Sometimes, just getting started on a project can be a handful if one has never done it, before. Things 'develop' along the way that will see the project through. Your perseverance is a very good example of experience coupled to a well thought out plan.
not sure about reproduction frames but i have a friend that restores frames.he also converts C3 frames to C2 frames. the mounts get changed and the rear frame rails are different so he converts all of this to work with a C2 . last i checked a completely converted frame ran around $1500 primed and ready to install. I do restoration work and have used his stuff before.
I used a Vette Product frame under my 63 SWC and other that a few minor problems the frame was a very good product. The body fit the frame perfect and shimmed to perfect body gaps. The price was $4200.00 in June of 2005.