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Windshield Frame Woes

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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #1  
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Default Windshield Frame Woes

After almost two years restoring a 1956 vette, I am at a really frustrating point. I would like to hear from anyone who took the windshield frame apart to have it polished and rechromed, only to have a hard time putting the top piece of the windshield molding back together. The winshield channel which fits on the inside of the outside stainless piece, and the two pieces are supposed to join together front and back held together by the two lips on each of the pieces. We tried putting this together ourselves, and realized that we couldn't do it, so a couple of scratches and ding later I took it to a glass shop that does all kinds of classics, only to have it come back with even more scratches and dings. I still don't think the frame is put together correctly in that one area. I would like to hear from anyone else who has similar experiences and any tricks on how they were resolved. The car goes to the paint booth tomorrow, and I really want to get the winshield right so I can put the car back together and drive the darn thing.

Thanks.

Rhonda
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #2  
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I have done a few and they are a PITA....
Do your windshield posts still have the mounting tabs or have the been broken off, like many are?
You will need liquid soap
rubber hammer
some ratched straps
some dumdum (use to hold the mounting plates)
2 pair of hands, I have done it by myself but it is a battle
and most of all patience

1.First put the frame together without the glass installed to make sure that it all fits together.
2.I use liquid soap and lube up the rubber.
3.Install the rubber on the glass,
4. Install the bottom frame (complete) make sure that the rubber goes completely into the chanel.
5. install the top frame and do the same as with the bottom. The soap works as a lube.
Now take a strap and wrap it around the glass holding the upper and lower frame in place.
6. Now begin to put the ends on. Install the top part of the end first. It is hard but with 2 people you should be able to hold on the the windshield and get the ends on. Once you have the end in place (even just the top) install the screws.
7. You may have to lightly tap the ends in with the rubber hammer.

It is a hard job but if you take your time and have some help it will go together.

Good Luck

oWEN
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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Thanks Owen for the response. I did have the tabs repaired and the pieces rechromed and they look really good. The PITA part I have down. I've looked at several cars at shows, and I am finding that the early C-1s and C-2s seem to all have problems where the top moulding and the the side mouldings meet. I am really picking about my chrome so I think I am going to take the top piece off have it fixed and try again. I live in northern CA, and can't seem to find anyone with experience who can do this. The same guy who did mine did a 57 winshield about 2 years ago so I thought I would give him a try. I don't think this is something I can do myself so I will print out your suggestions and take them back to the guy who did the work. I just was wondering if they were all this hard, or if my is a special case.

Thanks again.

Rhonda
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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The service manual ST-12 also covers this in section 1.

I don't think i ever saw perfect fitting chrome/trim on these unless somebody had a lot of work done. Bad fit, is something you live with on these cars, unless you want to spend the time and money to correct stuff that was never correct from the factory.

I did mine , by myself, almost exactly 20 years ago, and I was sweating bullets the whole time, from either exertion, or just fear of breaking the glass,a nd it was probaly about 60 degrees in the garage. I layed out a old 6 by 8 foot rug on the garage floor, and worked on that

There is no need to ding the chrome, use soft rubber mallets, and I don't recall ever needing to use a screwdriver or such to pry anything, though I think those little 1/4" wide, thin stainless steel spatulas that pharmacists use would come in handy to guide one piece over another. Just don't use anything with sharp edges.

Good luck,

Doug
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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Rhonda:
Owen pretty much covered it. I would like to comment on my experiences.

On my '60 which is the same situation, putting the rubber around the windshield was a monster problem. It just didn't want to stretch around for some reason. Almost made me spill my drink.

Getting the rubber gasket/windshield combination into the frame channel was accomplished only by using silicone grease. I started with soap because it would dry and disappear however I finally settled on the ignition dielectric (grease) and a large rubber mallet. I mean I hammered that thing. I cut a wood block and laid it on top of the frame to transfer the blow so as not dent the frame. At one point I figured I must be going to break the windshield but all of a sudden she slid on one end and I hammered my way the length of it. It was cave man stuff.

Make sure you find the upper and lower center of the windshield and attempt to locate the frames center line to center line. I had everything carefully marked with magic marker, pieces of tape and etc. When I got through hammering, beating and cursing my way through the assembly the marks were long gone.
By the way it was my first try at windshield assembly too. I bought the NCRS disc for the C-1 and there were a lot of articles on windshield assembly (as well as hundreds of articles on every conceivable issue). Get that disc. Anyone with a C-1 or C-2 must have one unless of course you repair yours with a checkbook. Best investment you will ever make regarding your car.

By the way mine turned out great. Perhaps $hit luck but I am delighted with the results.

I wish you well.

Ralph
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 03:57 PM
  #6  
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Default What a waste of a good drink.

Thanks for the insight. I am compiling all of your collective experiences and taking them back to the glass guy. Bummer about losing you drink. I will pass that on to the glass guy. Yes this one is out of the pocket book as I just don't feel we can get it right. I hope that mine turns out as well as yours. Car was supposed to go to paint booth today, but was delayed until next Tuesday. I need to get this windshield thing overwith so I will be ready to reassemble the car. I will go online and order that disc.

Thanks for your input.

Rhonda

Originally Posted by Black60
Rhonda:
Owen pretty much covered it. I would like to comment on my experiences.

On my '60 which is the same situation, putting the rubber around the windshield was a monster problem. It just didn't want to stretch around for some reason. Almost made me spill my drink.

Getting the rubber gasket/windshield combination into the frame channel was accomplished only by using silicone grease. I started with soap because it would dry and disappear however I finally settled on the ignition dielectric (grease) and a large rubber mallet. I mean I hammered that thing. I cut a wood block and laid it on top of the frame to transfer the blow so as not dent the frame. At one point I figured I must be going to break the windshield but all of a sudden she slid on one end and I hammered my way the length of it. It was cave man stuff.

Make sure you find the upper and lower center of the windshield and attempt to locate the frames center line to center line. I had everything carefully marked with magic marker, pieces of tape and etc. When I got through hammering, beating and cursing my way through the assembly the marks were long gone.
By the way it was my first try at windshield assembly too. I bought the NCRS disc for the C-1 and there were a lot of articles on windshield assembly (as well as hundreds of articles on every conceivable issue). Get that disc. Anyone with a C-1 or C-2 must have one unless of course you repair yours with a checkbook. Best investment you will ever make regarding your car.

By the way mine turned out great. Perhaps $hit luck but I am delighted with the results.

I wish you well.

Ralph
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 04:04 PM
  #7  
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From: Cotati CA
Default Thanks Doug.

I think the dings came from trying to pry the drivers side to get it to go into the channel that holds the winshield and rubber. The piece did not look like it was sprung or tweaked, but when we could not get it to fit together I figured I would give it to someone with more experience. I just got off the phone with my chrome guy, and he is going to fix the piece, and I am going to get all the information I can and go back to the glass guy.

I agree with the fact that there are a lot of cars out there where that top molding just did not fit right. I am not looking for perfection (well maybe a little) but would be happy if the two pieces were all connected securly. By that I am refering to the moulding attached in the little grooves on both front and back to the window chanel. With you guys doing this at home, I just can understand why the guys that do this for a living can't get it right, but I am patient and know sometimes doing it right means it take some time.

Thank you very much for responding. This is all good insight.

Rhonda

Originally Posted by AZDoug
The service manual ST-12 also covers this in section 1.

I don't think i ever saw perfect fitting chrome/trim on these unless somebody had a lot of work done. Bad fit, is something you live with on these cars, unless you want to spend the time and money to correct stuff that was never correct from the factory.

I did mine , by myself, almost exactly 20 years ago, and I was sweating bullets the whole time, from either exertion, or just fear of breaking the glass,a nd it was probaly about 60 degrees in the garage. I layed out a old 6 by 8 foot rug on the garage floor, and worked on that

There is no need to ding the chrome, use soft rubber mallets, and I don't recall ever needing to use a screwdriver or such to pry anything, though I think those little 1/4" wide, thin stainless steel spatulas that pharmacists use would come in handy to guide one piece over another. Just don't use anything with sharp edges.

Good luck,

Doug
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 10:30 PM
  #8  
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This may help a little
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/lporopat/index.html
LP
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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Installing the top moulding is not that difficult. Just start at one end and spread it apart enough to start it over the top channel and then work it down from one end to the other till it pops on. The outside lip of the moulding will naturally hook over the outside flange of the channel. The moulding only hooks over the outside flange of the channel. The inside lip of the moulding remains on the outside of the inside flange of the channel. If you are trying to make it hook over the inside too, it will not work and the moulding will be damaged. Once it pops into place you can then tap it sideways till the holes line up.
Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 03:14 AM
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I recently got this tip from a well known hardtop restoration shop owner who restores these old cars. Start by cleaning rubber with a product like lacquer thinner to remove any manufacturing residue. Anytime you are installing rubber around the glass or installing rubber into a frame of these old cars, soak the new rubber with products that are used for dressing out tires. Son of a Gun was one of his favorites. He said to buy one that soaks into the rubber. It is really, really slippery stuff. It not only softens but makes the rubber stretchable and slick. The mess it makes will clean-up with Windex. Have fun. DG
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vettnut
I recently got this tip from a well known hardtop restoration shop owner who restores these old cars. Start by cleaning rubber with a product like lacquer thinner to remove any manufacturing residue. Anytime you are installing rubber around the glass or installing rubber into a frame of these old cars, soak the new rubber with products that are used for dressing out tires. Son of a Gun was one of his favorites. He said to buy one that soaks into the rubber. It is really, really slippery stuff. It not only softens but makes the rubber stretchable and slick. The mess it makes will clean-up with Windex. Have fun. DG
I do not wish to be disrespectful to someone who is graciously offering advice but the use of lacquer thinner on rubber products is a dangerous thing. It is extremely aggressive and attacks the rubber breaking down its elasticity and flexibility. You are inviting early failure and eventual cracking with this method.

But use your best judgement and remember free advice is worth what you pay for it (including mine).

Best Regards,
Ralph
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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From: Chuckanut WA
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Absolutely NO laquer thinner or acetone! should be used. It will cause the rubber to crack in short order. They make rubber cleaning products which are available at any glass shop. I use spray silicone to ease installation.
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