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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 11:36 PM
  #41  
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I suggest buying a book such as the one in this link. It is also available at Borders and such stores.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/188...544157?ie=UTF8

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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 01:43 AM
  #42  
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I've got this book and it is full of good info. And for $13.95 you can't go wrong.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 03:36 AM
  #43  
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Default Poor Idle

A blown power valve shouldn't enrichen the idle circuit in idle conditions. It adds fuel directly to the main well that goes to the venturi booster.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #44  
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It was fine for two years with current configuration
It started with a load of gas
It improved dramatically for no obvious reason
and returned to seemingly bad mixture.
A piece of junk gets stuck, unstuck, stuck.
I would take the carb apart and clean it.

When trouble shooting and a change is made that doesn't help,
reverse the change back to stay at "known good", and go on.
LP
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #45  
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Well, after playing around with my carb the last couple of weeks...I got it. I think I had a couple things that I was fighting. Pretty sure my first problem was debris keeping the needle from seating and causing it to load up. Cleaned the crap out of the carb, filled with new gas, ran more sea foam through the carb, played with the idle mixture....it then began to run really good...except when cold....still ran like sh*t until it got up to operating temperature. Pulled the air cleaner off when it was cold to see if the choke was setting....and it was about 90% closed when cold. One thing I noticed was that in the past when I first hit the pedal to set the choke, I 'd hear a nice crisp metal to metal sound....I wasn't getting that now. So I got my trusty can of WD40 and sprayed the choke linkage/cam assy while I worked it up and down to where it was moving freely.....went out this morning, hit the pedal....voila, I hear the choke 'snap' shut. Idled perfect, ran perfect! I'm going to throw a new set of plugs in and see if they burn cleaner now that everything is running great. Thanks for all the help....much appreciated.

Life is good again.

Danno
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 03:25 PM
  #46  
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Danno,
That looks like a Mallory "YL" dual-point Distributor (circa 1960's style favorite for "racing") with no vacuum advance.

I agree with Duke, run a vac advance on the street, it will enhance overall performance and cooling.

My question is in the second photo of the carb I see the PCV valve spliced in between a rubber hose and was wondering where the other end of this hose (opposite the intake manifold) goes? In all cases the PCV valve is inserted directly into the valve cover.....Yours seems to be modified for some reason? Just curious as to why and where it goes?

Last edited by babbah; Sep 3, 2006 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:54 PM
  #47  
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I looked for some type of stamp on the distributor that would give a clue as to what it was, but you're the 2nd or third person that has said that it looks like a mallory. If it ever gives me any problem, I'll probably take Dukes advice and go back to a tach drive single point. As for the PCV valve...it goes from the base of the carb back to a steel tube right behind the intake. Right now, it's running as good as it ever has.......... I'm lovin' it

Danno
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:36 AM
  #48  
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IMHO, Your PCV valve should be inserted into your valve cover, The way you describe your hookup above has the PCV is doing nothing for crankcase ventiliation...Does your valve cover on that side have a hole and grommet to plug the PCV into?
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