58 engine advice
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1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
58 engine advice
My 58 isn't original. It's color is nice, but not the original blue. I bought it pretty cheap with what looks like a roughly late 60's 350. I finally fried the solenoid, and it's had a slow but concerning coolant leak for quite a while. I want to replace the engine now. Here's the decision: go original? With the rest of the car nice, but nowhere near original, I'm leaning away from trying to find the exact motor. I'm leaning toward a modern small block, maybe tricked out a little. I wonder if anybody knows the limits of what you can shoe-horn into a C1? There was a cool show on the Speed channel where they put together a small block with a twin turbo kit. I dunno if that would squeeze into that little car or not. I suspect big blocks are out. Also, seems like the limiting factor is vertical: hood gets in the way of stuff sticking out (like a blower or turbo kit.) Any and all advice is welcome!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 6
From: NC USA
The way I understand it they didn't have VINs stamped on motors until 1960 so as long as the block casting and date code are correct, you can have a so-called original car. If it were me, I would do that and make it a period solid lifter, dual-4 car. I think it will be more valuable in the long run if that is important to you. Otherwise, the GM 383 crates are putting out big power right out of the box!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 1
From: fighter pilots make movies, bomber pilots make history
Gus,
Go with the period look with a solid 2 x 4 WCFB set-up as Mark suggested. But go with the 383 block...it is the same as your 350 external dimensions. Everything you have now will bolt on it with the exception of some minor flywheel issues because the 383 is externally balanced.
Put the 2.5" manifolds on it (if you do not have now)
What heads do you have now? tranny and rear end?
With the 383 you have the extra torque and bullet proof bottom end. You can get it back on the street quickly, then in the future you can use the 2 x 4 intake or some other performance intake and carbs (maybe FI). Comparatively easy to make 350-400 torque and HP (or more) with that 383 base setting in there.
Joe
Go with the period look with a solid 2 x 4 WCFB set-up as Mark suggested. But go with the 383 block...it is the same as your 350 external dimensions. Everything you have now will bolt on it with the exception of some minor flywheel issues because the 383 is externally balanced.
Put the 2.5" manifolds on it (if you do not have now)
What heads do you have now? tranny and rear end?
With the 383 you have the extra torque and bullet proof bottom end. You can get it back on the street quickly, then in the future you can use the 2 x 4 intake or some other performance intake and carbs (maybe FI). Comparatively easy to make 350-400 torque and HP (or more) with that 383 base setting in there.
Joe
