I am in the process of pulling my 327 and replacing it with a crate 350. I was told the 327 was not original to my car. Trying to figure out if it is worth selling after it is pulled. It has 140 lbs in all cylinders except #7 with 135 lbs.

Casting 3782870
Intake 3844461
passenger front L159909 FOI25RB

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Mike

 

Those items are worth something.

The block 3782870 I believe is from a 65
The manifold 3844461 is for a 64/65 L76 (365HP)

Not sure what blocks go for but the manifold can go from $250 ~ $500 depending on condition and the buyer.

John

 

Looked up the block and it shows it was available from 62 to 65. Check the casting date for the year.

John

 

I was told the motor was probably from a 62, and not sure if it was even from a Corvette.

 

Thanks John:

I think I am going to have to wait till I pull the motor to find the date. It is my understanding that it is located on the back of the block on the passengers side. I added a new 700R4 tranny and the dip stick is in the way and I cannot see it.

 

You might be able to put a digital camera or use some kid's playdough to get the date if it can't be seen.

John

 

from a 62 full size M/T

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/spcode6.html

http://www.mortec.com/bbc.htm

 

when you say full size do you mean Impala or that sort? Also, does the M/T mean motor and tranny?

 

Passenger car, 1962-64, 327 ci, 300hp, manual transmission (m/t)

 

so, you think that motor is going to be worth much to anyone or is it going to be more of a hassle than anything?

 

My car has a 350 in it now. I would prefer a 327, regardless. Send me a PM, if you want to sell it.

Some of the things that determine value, running or not ? Has it been bored out before ? Using oil ? Leaks ? etc...

 

Just for some added info about 327s, and their replacement with a later crate (or rebuilt) engine. As MOST of you know, the 67-earlier small blocks had a hole in the rear of the block for crankcase ventilation. Also, the 67-earlier valve covers are SOLID, that is, NO HOLES in them. Thus, you can use the finned alum covers with the Corvette script. All 68-later small blocks require valve covers with holes in them for crankcase ventilation (or some sort of creative system).
For those of you who don't know, or are not familiar with how to do it, it is tooooooooooooooooo easy built a 350 or 383 from a 62-67 small journal 327 block. Thus, allowing the use of early valve covers without holes in them. This will provide a method of crankcase ventilation without modification, keep a relatively stock appearance, provide more cubic inches (translate more torque) and allow the use of all the early exterior parts such as solid valve covers.
If anyone is interested about how to build a 350 or 383 from a small journal 327, I'll be happy to expand on it.

 

yes, tell me more on strokin' a 327 please.

 

Glad to hear more about the PCV system. Mine has a early '70 350 c.i. and I had thought about replacing the covers. Didn't realize the PCV system plumbing.

Thanks.

 

Now, keep in mind, this is certainly going to be an additional expense, no question about it. AND, the really worthwhile benefit is simple to allow the retention of early valve covers with no holes (such as the early finned alum covers). Some people cannot justify this! But if you can or do your own engine assembly work, it's just tooooooooooooo easy!
First, to stroke a small journal 327 to 350, simply obtain a 350 crank and 350 rods. Have your machinist turn down the main journals to small journal size (keep the big 350 rod journals and use the bigger 350 rods). This machining process will be akin to turning down a 400 crank to fit a 350 block to make a 383. ALSO, that flange on the 350 crank between the rear bearing journal and the journal for the rear main seal will also need to be cut down a little (the groove for that flange in a 327 block is a little smaller than the groove in a 350 block). Once the 350 crank is machined to fit the 327 nblock, you simply build the engine just as you would build any 350 to suit your requirements.

To make a 383 from a small journal 327 block can be done 2 different ways.
The first method is to simply turn down the mains of a 400 crank to small journal size and cut down that flange. Then, build it just as you would build a 383 from a 350 and a machined 400 crank (also, remember, when building a 383, clearance notches have to be cut in the bottom end of the cylinders for rod clearance).
The second way, which will cost more, and is my personal preference, is to machine the mains on a 400 crank to 350 size (just as you would do to build a 383 using a 350 block). Then (here is the added expense), have the 327 line bored/honed to 350 main size. THIS WILL REQUIRE HAVING NEW NOTCHES CUT INTO THE BLOCK/CAPS FOR REGISTERING 350 MAIN BEARING HALVES!!!!!!!!! (don't forget to cut down the flange). Remove the short 327 main bolts and install the longer 350 main bolts (or studs if you prefer). I like to use the CURVED windage tray (the flat windage tray won't clear the added stroke) and the long Chevy studs for a windage tray. NORMALLY when building a 383, it is necessary to use a SB400 balancer. SOMETIMES the machine shop can balance the assembly so that a "plain" balancer can be used. If not, then you can have the front end of the 400 crank internally balanced so that a plain balancer (such as the 62-68 Hi-perf finned version) can be used. This is what I did with the SB400 in my 56, thus, it doesn't have that tell tale 400 balancer which is a dead giveaway that there is something besides a 283 in the 56.

The above strokes used to be fairly common, but are seldom done any more. When I first built a 383 from a 327 for someone many years ago, my machinist told me he had even done this stroke (400 crank) a couple of times to a 283 and bored it .060.

Last of all, while we're on the subject of stroking, it is drop dead easy to stroke a 307 by simply dropping in a 350 crank (everyone knows that a 307 is a 283 bore with a 327 stroke, right?), then bore it .030 or .030. This results in about 14in short of a 350. Build it just like you would build a 350. This allows the guys with an original, matching number Chevelle, with its original 307, to gain a lot of added power! You even keep the 307 rods!!! The 307 rods (NOT 305 rods) and 350 rods and BIG journal 327 rods are the same!