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I have removed the rear crossmember - rebuilt the rearend - now it's time for installation - how do you know if the crossmember is full seated on the cups? It has been a year since I took it apart - lots of cleaning, painting, etc - now going back together, and I can't remember how far on the cups the cross member was - tightened the crap out of the bolts - but want to make sure I have full seat prior to putting the rest of the suspension on...
So...when you say you " tightened the crap out of the bolts " I'm assuming you meant to say " tightened the bolts to 55 - 65 ft. lbs. as specified in the service manual"...............?
I know what you are saying. When I replaced my crossmember I thought " Is that all that holds this thing on, these two 7/16" bolts?" Apparently it works. You don't see too many threads starting with " My rear crossmember came off" . Not to say that it hasn't happened, tho.
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Just tighten the two bolts to the correct torque and don't worry about it; the weight of the car pushes the frame sombrero formations and the crossmember bushings together - it's not going to come apart.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Originally Posted by JohnZ
Just tighten the two bolts to the correct torque and don't worry about it; the weight of the car pushes the frame sombrero formations and the crossmember bushings together - it's not going to come apart.
Yeah..but what a pain pulling them apart......Zora didn't think that one thru..Heh....Got any C4
Yeah..but what a pain pulling them apart......Zora didn't think that one thru..Heh....Got any C4
That's why it's a good idea to coat the inner steel sleeve in the new bushings with anti-seize before bolting them up; helps them seat properly, and you won't have to fight with them the next time you need to drop the crossmember.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's why it's a good idea to coat the inner steel sleeve in the new bushings with anti-seize before bolting them up; helps them seat properly, and you won't have to fight with them the next time you need to drop the crossmember.
Excellent info Jhon.. Did excactly that after the 8 hour war trying to remove mine for a rebuild. It's a good thing I did 6 weeks later I had to pull the diff again after a leak developed from a Yoke seal after a fresh rebuild.
Thanks - I considered the weight of the car as a manes to ensure complete cup/crossmemeber engagement - the bolts are tightend to spec, but the cross member doesn't 'seem' like it's in the same place it was when it was removed....I will put the rest of the rear together lower the car and check the bolts one more time - just seems like something you don't want to have loosen up. And - oh yes, Zora did not consider removal - a frustrating task that reauired the longest pry bar I could find - whew!
I had to remove my rear diff as the pinion bearings destroyed themselves. ThoughtI may as well replace the original rear cross member cushions. The old ones came out with a few blows from a 5 lb hammer. Installing the new ones was another story. I tried freezing the new cushions and heating the cross member, no go. I tried using a heavy bracket on one side and then trying to draw the new ones in with a bolt a piece of threaded rod. No go. I then got smart, finally, and took them to a local machine shop where the machinest made up a press fitting that was the same size as the outside diameter of the cushions, and successfully pressed them in. His comments to me where "those where very tough to get in...they won't easily come out again".....If trying to install new cushions, my advice would be to take them to a shop and have them pressed in. Cheap, easy, and no damage.
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